elliot1

<p>clouds</p><div></div>

<p>Another</p><div></div>

<p>Sunrise</p><div></div>

<p><em>"My question is: will the D750 give me 'better IQ' (eg, detail, noise) than the D7100?"</em><br /> <br /> No, the D750 has 24mp for its full frame, FX sized, while the D7100 is 24mp for its full frame, which is DX sized. So you have more pixels to work with with the DX frame. The DX sized image of the D750 would be just 10.33mp. Even the D800/D810, which is 36mp FX would leave you with less pixels to work with once cropped to DX size than the D7100.<br /> </p> <p><em>"my ISO is creeping up to 1600" </em><br> <em> </em><br> It will do the same with the D7100. and any other body you use, and IQ may only be a bit better. What software are you processing your images with?</p>

<p>Keep in mind that these bodies DO NOT come with Nikon's 1 year new camera warranty, and not even a Nikon 90 day refurb warranty (not that there is anything wrong with Robert's 6 month warranty - they appear to be a reputable dealer for Nikon).</p> <p>FWIW, new gray market D800s are selling for hundred's less than Robert's price (NOT that I am suggesting anyone in the US get one as you cannot get it services by Nikon in the USA).</p> <p>And for those looking for a bargain, there will be more down the road.</p>

<p>Do you like the D7000? If so, consider getting yours repaired or getting a 'new' used one. There are many available on the big auction site and at Amazon at very reasonable prices. Also consider KEH which offers a very liberal return policy (gives you time to check it out fully and return if you are not happy, no questions asked) and gives a 6 month warranty. Your purchased, for most sellers, would also be covered under warranty on the big auction site - if it had an AF issue, you could return it for a full refund.</p> <p>Have you considered a used D7100 which may also be a very good upgrade path (the AF module on the D7100 is vastly improved over the D7000) and would be quite affordable as well - readily available for under $800. And you won't have to replace any lenses.</p> <p>Not every D7000 has focus issues, but some do. I had one at its AF was extremely accurate.</p> <p>Another option - KEH has a FLAT RATE repair program, and your camera would be $215 to service with them. Here is a link to info on their repair program:</p> <p>https://www.keh.com/page/repair-pricing</p> <p>BUT if you are ready to upgrade:</p> <p><em>"The D810 clearly feels like a more professional piece"</em><br /> <br /> Very true, but at a high cost!<br /> <br /> <em>"Im sure that both cameras have the ability to produce stunning images"</em><br /> <br /> Very true as well.<br /> <br /> Its your money - its your hobby - you know best for yourself. Another option to consider - a used D800.</p> <p>Something else to consider - IF you upgrade to FX,<strong> its not just the body you will have to upgrade</strong> - you will need to sell a couple of your lenses and replace them with costlier ones.</p>

<p>John, you make a good point. I am not an engineer but I would imagine in any of the M43 manufacturers could make reasonable continuous AF part of their cameras, they would have. There is probably some kind of engineering limitation that prevents fast and accurate continuous AF in mirrorless bodies. I have looked into mirrorless bodies other than M43 and they seem to have the same limitations. So I guess I will need to keep my Nikon gear a bit longer. And of course there is always manual focus as an option.</p>

<p>You can compare out-of-the-camera JPGS here:</p> <p>http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM</p> <p>IQ from the D750 and D810 is certainly improved over the D700 and even the D800 but you may only see the differences under extreme shooting conditions (lower light/high ISO settings, extra large prints). The differences narrow quite a bit IF shooting and processing RAW files rather than JPGs (depending on the processing software you are using). Get whichever one fits you budget the best. If you want a body specifically for travel, perhaps there are better smaller/lighter weight choices (assuming you mean personal travel).</p>

<p>One more...</p><div></div>

<p>Interior</p><div></div>

<p>Interior and Exterior shots of the B&O Train Museum, Baltimore, MD.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Ilkka and Rick. Illness had forced me to give up my heavy Nikon gear for almost 1 1/2 years. I finally feel well enough to start using select gear again and had a lot of fun taking those shots. Hope to contribute more...</p>

<p>Why not just send your camera to Nikon and have them give you a free estimate. The body is certainly worth repairing. KEH also has flat rate repairs and it should be $215 from them which sounds quite reasonable.</p>

<p>Kent, thanks for posting your images and your comments.</p> <p>IMHO, any AF module that offers anything less than the D3/D700/D300/D4/D800/D7100 or similar or does not have dual memory card slots eliminates the camera from being useful enough for fast action/low light sports and/or paid photography.</p>

<p>For anyone interested in the 'new' Petzval:<br> http://microsites.lomography.com/petzval-lens/</p> <p>interesting lens! great shot, Kent!</p> <p>Can you post an image of your lens?</p>

<p>"What Nikon FX camera is the best performance for the value? "<br> <br> D3.</p>

<p>one more...</p><div></div>

<p>Another</p><div></div>

<p>From a local wake boarding park</p><div></div>

<p>Eric I did not say equal, rather that it would be difficult to see any differences in smaller sized prints, which it would be. Most pixels are not used when making small prints - look at how little resolution is needed to post images on this site or on the web and they still look great. </p> <p>Keep in mind that for a high quality 4 x 6 or 5 x 7 print, you only need the equivalent of 2 MP (1600 x 1200 pixels), so even a file from an EM1 gets the benefit of downsampling. Between downsampling and DXO software, which can give from a 2 to 4 stop benefit, typically sized smaller prints from high ISO shots can look pretty much as good as those from DX and FX sensors. As a long time DXO user, I can assure you that their improvement claims are accurate.<br /><br> <br> </p>

<p>Correction/clarification to above: I believe it would be difficult to see much in the way of differences in image quality in typically sized prints up to <strong>5 x 7</strong>, a<em>nd perhaps 8 x 10 or even a bit larger</em>, after processing RAW images with advanced image processing software. I use DXO software and their PRIME noise reduction is truly amazing. That combined with the other benefits DXO image processing software provide really allows for great image quality out of smaller sensor bodies as compared to full frame and DX sized sensors.</p> <p>And sometimes the small differences just don't really matter.</p> <p>FWIW, DXO software easily improves high ISO image easily by 1 to 1 1/2 stops, and I would guess typically 2 stops. They claim under some circumstances you can gain up to 4 stops if IQ from high ISO images. Combine good image processing software and fast glass and it is a win-win situation for good IQ under adverse lighting.</p>

<p><em>"namely worse at high-ISO"</em><br /> <br /> Actually, this is not totally accurate. Pixel for pixel, the OMD EM1 delivers pretty much the same IQ as some full frame Nikon bodies, like the D800 for example. Downsampling give full frame cameras a huge advantage, obviously, but for typical sized prints, up to 8 x 10, perhaps a bit larger, you would likely not see much of a difference in prints, if any. Post processing comes into play, obviously. Software like DXO really levels the playing field too when it comes to high ISO IQ. Their PRIME NR feature offers exceptional results.<br /> <br /> <em>"but at $1500, you're not really getting a break on price"</em><br /> <br /> This is sort of true but after a reasonably short period of time, Olympus <strong>always</strong> offers deals on their newly released gear anyway. I would expect to be able to save a couple of hundred dollars off the list price within 6 month or so. By comparison, Nikon's 70-200 VRII f2.8 sells for $2400 and the f4 version sells for $1400. And although the lens and TC are not being offered as a 'package' at this time, I suspect they will be offered in a discounted bundle in the near future.</p> <p>It will be interesting to see the DXO numbers on this lens, especially with regard to sharpness.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Eric, the Olympus lens is nowhere near as big or as heavy as the Nikon equivalent. And of course the difference in <strong>total</strong> size/weight increases when you add a camera body into the equation.</p> <p>This new lens is expected to have not just great IQ, but exceptional image quality. Time will tell.</p>

<p>Keep in mind that while the D7000 has a lot of AF points, it has only 9 cross-type AF points which would be the most accurate. Try using only those and see if it helps.</p> <p>Most AF issues are due to technique issues (I am not saying you do not have a genuine problem with your camera, just that you may not). Do some troubleshooting to find out for sure, using only the cross-type AF points and using only a Nikon lens - choose a high contrast subject to test with with high shutter speeds, a tripod or flash or a combination of all three (this will help eliminate some of the common causes of focus issues).</p> <p>The D7000 has the ability to fine tune AF which is a great feature that can help you with simple AF issues, assuming they are not technique related.</p>

<p>You may find this of interest with regard to KR's comments which it appears with regard to this matter, he may have gotten a bit carried away with:</p> <p>http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/26490235</p> <p>Are you shooting often in low light?</p>