elliot1

<p><em>'The D3300 has a newer, improved sensor with double the resolution,"</em><br> <em> </em><br> The D3300 has double the MEGAPIXELS but NOT double the resolution. But for most typical photography applications, you would probably not see the difference. </p>

<p>The D90 is an excellent general purpose camera. Assuming you are not doing event or paid photography, you would probably not see much of a difference if any in you pictures from the D90 to newer models. </p> <p>What lenses and accessories do you have now and what type of photography are you doing?</p> <p>"what I could do to make my D90 better for shots"<br> <br> The D90 is capable of taking exceptional shots. The best way to improve pictures is to learn more about photography, especially lighting and composition. And find good subject matter to take pictures of. And then practice, practice, practice. </p> <p>What lenses and accessories do you currently have? What kind of photography do you do?</p>

<p>Christmas Concert</p><div></div>

<p>Unless you need better AF, I am not sure there is much reason to update your body (the areas where you are seeking improvement have not changed all that much/enough to make the upgrade truly worthwhile. It might be prudent to wait to see what the D7200 is all about.</p>

<p>There are conversion programs, some FREE, that can easily convert the files for you.</p>

<p>You can get a generic for around $10. It is always good to have a spare. How long have you owned the camera?</p>

<p>Robert, as a previous owner of the D800, I know what its high ISO performance is capable of. I brought it up because I don't know the noise performance of the D750 personally but it is my understanding that it is almost the same as the D800. So IF you are shooting RAW and IF you are using good image processing software/technique, you can get exceptional high ISO results, but print size does make a difference. All of Nikon's newest bodies are capable of high ISO prints that look like they were shot at low ISO, IF you shoot RAW and IF you are using good image processing software. The best of them all in the price range you are looking at seems to be the D810, which I still recommend if the best IQ is indeed what you are after.</p> <p>While I no longer have my D800, my old D3 is now capable of producing excellent high ISO images and was given a 'refresh' because of software advances in both noise reduction and color enhancement. I was never happy with the high ISO results (ISO 6400) previously. </p> <p>So ultimately how once processes his/her images is, as it always has been, very important in obtaining great high ISO results. Eric's sample image demonstrates this well. And because I am so picky, I use the best software available. And get great high ISO results. So how do you process you high ISO images and what size prints are you making?</p> <p>Whether you like it or not, the D750 is basically an updated D600, so if you were not happy with the D600's IQ at higher ISOs, you likely will not be happy with the D750. I know both cameras (actually all those that I listed) are capable of exceptional results at high ISO depending on print size. But you do have to work the images a bit in post.</p> <p>And DXO's numbers are accurate when it comes to IQ, especially with regard to noise characteristics, and if you take the time to examine them, you will see why the D750 and D600 are very much alike in IQ. All I was trying to do was save you from disappointment based on your own comments. I remember reading when the D750 came out how much improved it was over the D600 (related to high ISO). It turns out its JPGs are improved over the D600 but the RAW images are basically the same as what you get with the D600.</p> <p>Andrew's final comments above may prove be the most helpful to you.</p>

<p>Is is the original battery? If so, it is old. It is inexpensive to replace and a good starting point to do some basic troubleshooting.</p>

<p>You will get better results IF you have the right glass. For example, 200mm on you DX body (300mm FOV) will not look that much different from 200mm cropped to the 300mm FOV of DX BUT 300mm on FX will be improved over 200mm (300mm FOV) from DX.</p> <p>Fast glass always helps!</p>

<p>"wondering if the D610 will be a significant upgrade in low-light indoor photography?"<br> <br> In general, yes. What ISOs are you typically shooting at? What size prints are you typically making?</p>

<p>I should add that the IQ of the D600/D610/D750/D800/D810 when it comes to high ISO is excellent at higher ISOs, and certainly at least until ISO 6400 and perhaps beyond.</p>

<p><em>" its limit was iso 4000. "</em><br /> <br /> Were you shooting RAW or JPG? How are you processing your files? What size prints were you making that you felt they "broke up"?<br /> <br /> My guess is that you will need to improve your post processing skills and software (and shoot RAW of course), as the D750 is not all that different from the D600/D610 when it comes to IQ.<br /> <br /> This article may be of interest to you:<br /> <br /> http://www.dxomark.com/Reviews/Nikon-D750-Sensor-Review-Another-Nikon-sensor-in-the-DxOMark-top-10/Nikon-D750-vs-D810-vs-D610-Nikon-D810-still-the-king-of-DSLR-image-quality<br /> <br /> If you are looking for best possible IQ in the same general price range, you may want to consider a D810 instead. But unless you improve your post processing skills and software, you may not be happy with the D810 either.</p> <p> </p>

<p>final image</p><div></div>

<p>second shot</p><div></div>

<p>Some unusual weather conditions brought some unusual extreme surf to my area. Unfortunately I could not get down to the beach until late in the day (near dusk) but the EM1 did great anyway.</p><div></div>

<p>Richard, CA happens on expensive lenses as well. It is not fair to blame the lens in this case. In fact, it is unlikely that the lens is damaged, because it it was damaged due to a drop or having an element move, there would likely be highly visible focus issues within the image addition to the CA. This does not appear to be the case. In fact, I suspect if the exact same lens was put on a body that had auto correction, and took the exact same image, the auto correction feature would correct the CA in the shot. </p> <p><em>"Do yourself a favor and move up to a better wide angle."</em><br> <em> </em><br> Since the D40 does not have auto correction, a 'better' lens may still produce CA under identical lighting/shooting conditions and it would still have to be corrected manually.</p>

<p>If you are shooting JPGs yes, if you are shooting RAW, not so much. Let me explain.</p> <p>In-camera processing has improved substantially for JPGs, and seems to improve a bit more with every new body released. Newer Nikon bodies have automatic corrections for chromatic aberrations and other lens specific issues. Improvements have also been made to in-camera JPGs with regard to high ISO images. These corrections are applied automatically to the in-camera processed JPG images. So indeed, the image you posted would look better if shot with a newer Nikon body. But the corrections are not applied to the RAW image so all things being equal, the RAW images would not be any different using the same lens.</p> <p>CA is not unusual and easily correctable. Especially if your shoot RAW. In newer bodies, CA is corrected automatically in-camera for JPGs.</p> <p> </p>

<p><em>"being able to pull shadows out really helps"</em><br /> <br /> I find this ability to do this successfully is related more to image processing software than the sensor. I use DXO software and its ability to do this and do it well (using RAW files) is absolutely incredible (from just about any camera).</p>

<p>If a 1 year warranty is important to you, the D750 may be a better choice. Because you shoot a fair amount of video, the D750 again may be a better choice.</p> <p>Keep in mind that some of the D800 bodies have a left side AF issue.</p>

<p>last one...</p><div></div>

<p>second...</p><div></div>

<p>Wake-boarding...</p><div></div>

<p>If you are happy with your current lens, you will be just as happy with the new one. Perhaps happier because of the extended zoom range.</p>

<p>The D7000 has many AF points but not all of them are the cross type which are the most accurate (the 9 center ones are the cross type). I suggest you only use those. Also, for the type of shots you are doing, you can easily use any of those 9 AF points, lock in focus (AF-S mode or using the AF lock button) and then recompose and get proper results.</p> <p>From Nikon:</p> <p>https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/440/~/when-should-i-use-ae-lock%3F</p>

<p>#3</p><div></div>