elliot1

<p>CA cannot be avoided sometimes BUT it can usually be easily corrected during post processing.</p>

<p><em>"the biggest issue I have with Olympus is the incomprehensible menu system"</em><br> <em> </em><br> I kind of like it (it does take a while to get used to) because just about everything is customizable.<br> <br> As far as "Release mode priority", because DOF tends to be larger with the m43 system, especially when stopped down, this issue of exact focus is less critical. I took over 1500 images on Sunday testing the continuous AF with Chris' settings and almost all were in focus, not so much because the continuous AF worked so well, but because it worked well enough and was close enough based on the aperture I was using. I had the aperture stopped down enough that any minor mis-focusing did not really matter. Had I been shooting with a fast aperture lens wide open, many of my shots would have been out of focus.</p> <p><em>"I am not sure how ‘regular’ i.e. non-nerdy people get on with it"</em><br> <em> </em><br> Do regular non-nerdy people use this system?<br> </p>

<p>The difference between 16mp and 22mp is so small, you would likely not be able to see the difference. You really need a doubling of the megapixels to '<em>notice</em>' any difference. And even then, the print size would have huge in order to even see the difference and you would have to be viewing the prints for 6" away.</p> <p>Keep in mind that you can upsize files by about 20% using a program like Photoshop without any loss in IQ.</p>

<p>For maximum compatibility years down the road, it pays to stick with Nikon. </p>

<p>#3</p><div></div>

<p>#2</p><div></div>

<p>Cable wakeboardings</p><div></div>

<p>When it comes to IQ and IQ only, there will not be much of a difference between the two bodies (especially after post processing RAW files).</p>

<p>2nd</p><div></div>

<p>High school football</p><div></div>

<p>From a flash output perspective, the SB-700 and SB-600 have the lowest power output (not that it is low, just that it is lower than the SB-800 and SB-900. The interface on the SB-900 is improved over the SB-800 but the SB-800 has the ability to add a 5th battery which aids in fast recycle times and more flashes per set of batteries.</p> <p>Which model is good enough? All of them. The SB-900 will probably give you the most value for your dollar.</p> <p><em>FWIW, I have the SB-800 (and the SB-900) and once you get used to its interface, it is really not too bad but the SB-900 is far better.</em></p>

<p>I did a quick test last night, and the center 9 actually worked pretty well, surprisingly well. I will test further in the coming weeks.</p>

<p>IMHO, you should only consider a body that has two memory card slots for paid work. There are several very affordable DX bodies (both new and used) that offer this feature.</p>

<p>Chris, thanks to the info. I will give your settings a try.</p>

<p>I have the latest firmware. I have tried both continuous AF modes and find neither of them reliable/usable when a subject is moving. What settings with regard to AF are you referring to? </p>

<p><em>"I think both technique, and quality lenses go hand in hand."</em></p> <p>When it comes to sharpness, Nikon does a really good job with virtually all of their lenses, even the cheap kit lenses (I am referring to image quality). Since you state that<em> "</em><em>Some of the images were sharp, and some were softer"</em>, I suspect that perhaps technique is coming into play. Often, technique is the culprit of image quality issues. I am not saying your lens may not be defective in some way, but I suggest you do some testing to find out for sure. It is certainly possible that your lens is good and your technique isn't.<br> <br> <em>"Why the do pros themselves need to buy higher quality lenses?"</em><br> The higher quality lenses typically offer faster apertures that enable pros to shoot in lower light, wide open and still obtain great results. And also have better build quality.</p> <p>Would you be better off with the 24-85mm? Perhaps. Depends on what you are shooting, your style and the size of the prints you are making. If the true issue is your technique and not the lens. the new lens will not give you any better results than the current lens you have.<br> </p>

<p>I am not looking for it to catch up to top end Nikon, just to work - as it stands now, continuous AF is basically useless.</p>

<p>I have no issues with the AF of the EM1 other than continuous AF. I have not sold my Nikon gear off other than my D800, but if I could find a M43 body that has very good continuous AF, I would. I guess I will have to wait a bit longer.</p>

<p>Last night I took pictures at a high school football game of my grandson. As is typical of an outdoor high school stadium, the lighting was crappy (no surprise). My EM1 would have been fine in every regard except for continuous AF. While I rarely have an issue with AF for the sports I shoot, this was one occasion where I chose to shoot with my D3/70-200mm specifically because of the continuous AF advantage. And although I used a monopod, at this point the overall weight it just too much for me.</p> <p>While I am not looking to replace my EM1 (fully satisfied with it), I would have no trouble adding another M43 body (reasonably priced) that had excellent continuous AF. With the expected release of a pro f2.8 40mm-150mm lens, I am now ready to sell my Nikon 70-200mm and get it and then sell my D3 for a M43 body with continuous AF that works.</p> <p>Any experience/suggestions?</p>

<p>DC</p><div></div>

<p>Another cathedral interior</p><div></div>

<p>Montreal, Canada</p><div></div>

<p>Gerry, I always enjoy your posts and links, and comments and recommendations (just bought a flash based on your comments (FL 50R,- very happy with it). Keep them coming!</p>

<p>The D4s and D810 will give pretty much the same results at any ISO if you are making 8 x 10s prints and smaller. As you go to larger sizes, the D4s will have a slight advantage. The larger you go, the more the D4s has the advantage.</p> <p>Downsampling is specifically what gives the D800/D810 bodies a tremendous advantage over other bodies.</p>

<p>What will you be shooting with the 80-400mm lens and what size prints would you be making?</p>