elliot1

<p>from WWII air show</p><div></div>

<p>Extension tubes do a great job and are inexpensive.</p>

<p>I don't remember, sorry. What is the one you received made of?</p>

<p>You should be fine, assuming the grip is in very good condition. The HLD-6 is very well built.</p> <p>Another option for a grip for the EM5 is a 3rd party grip. These don't have the battery compartment or addition buttons but if all you need is the grip part they work well. And they are inexpensive, as low at $25-$30.</p> <p>KEH is a great source as it comes with warranty.</p>

<p>Only the 9 AF points in the center are cross type AF points which will give you much more accurate AF than any of the other points. Are you using these AF points when doing your calibration and testing? I believe when you have 11 focus points selected, only the center point is the cross type.</p>

<p>Interesting setup. Thanks for posting.</p>

<p>Presenting of the colors at my son's science fair awards ceremony</p><div></div>

<p>I bought a D7000 when it first came out (pre-ordered) and had it for about a year. It focused perfectly.<br /><br />The D7100 has a similar AF module to what is in the D300 and is far improved over the D7000. I would definitely go with the D7100 over the D300 or D7000.</p>

<p>You are correct about the weight of the lens, but you are not comparing apples to apples.</p> <p>The Nikon 70-200mm VRII weighs in at almost 3 1/2 lbs. As does the Nikon 80-400mm (which is also a variable/slower aperture lens).</p> <p>So the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 is quite a bit lighter in the same zoom range by comparison, and yes, a bit heavy by m43 standards, BUT it is after all a pro lens with a fast aperture with many advantages to the photographer for low light shooting. As with Nikon lenses, when it comes to IQ, the Olympus consumer versions of their pro lenses tend to offer excellent IQ.<br /> <br /> So the bottom lines is that the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 (FOV 80-300) weighing in at the same weight as the Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 is fantastic for someone that needs the advantages of fast pro glass on a long zoom lens for a small camera body.</p> <p>So given the choice of a 2 lb lens Olympus lens with AF Vs a 3 1/2 lb Nikon having to be used fully manually on an Olympus body, well, to me the choice is obvious. And if you don't need a fast aperture lens, the choice is even more obvious, as it appears it was for you. Good luck and enjoy your new lens and body!</p> <p> </p>

<p>The Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 is much smaller and lighter than Nikon's equivalent. Compared to the size and weight of the 80-400mm, the 40-150mm is small. But for m43, it is a bit on the large size. But it delivers where it counts!</p> <p>The consumer version you ordered is very light in weight (amazingly light) and quite sharp. I have this lens. Needless to say you will not be disappointed with it! But it is a variable aperture lens and starts at f4 so it is not good for low light shooting. I am sure you will enjoy it.</p> <p> </p>

<p>This is the lens you want, the new Olympus 40-150 2.8 (FOV 80-300mm). There is a matching TC which will give you 420mm FOV. You won't be disappointed! </p> <p>The adapter I bought is just a cheepie one out of China that I picked up about 5 years ago when I bought my first Olympus digital body, the EPL1. Adapters sell for well under $50.</p>

<p>There is no adapter that retains AF. I don't believe there is one that controls the aperture either. Mine is fully manual and does allow you to control the aperture manually even with G lenses.</p> <p>Olympus and Panasonic/Lumix lenses offer exceptional sharpness, are light in weight and pair perfectly with the m43 system. Although I originally intended to use some of my Nikon lenses on my EM1, I never do. There is no reason to. I get better IQ with Olympus lenses on my Olympus body that I do using the Nikon equivalents on an Olympus body. Additionally, since I shoot RAW and process my images with software that offers lens specific corrections which are not available with Nikon lenses on the Olympus body, it makes a lot more sense to shoot with lenses supported by the software I use. As with Nikon, Olympus does have limited in-camera lens corrections of supported lenses which is of course, not available when using a Nikon lens with an adapter.<br> <br /> The commonly used Olympus/Panasonic lenses are reasonably priced, especially used and are worth investing in for your new camera in order to get the most out of your new system.</p>

<p>I received the cards I ordered and they are indeed twice as fast as my older extreme cards with speeds in line of what Chris reported. Highly recommended!</p>

<p>Kent, according to the Nikon website (with regard to ring-shaped colored flare), <em>"This phenomenon can be minimized with "PF Flare Control" included in Capture NX-D."</em><br> <em> </em><br> There are supposed to be sample images of this, both before and after correction but I can't seem to find them. Has anyone been able to locate them?</p>

<p>Interesting bird shot, Sanford!</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>The reason I asked is because you can obviously increase the ISO a bit to compensate for it having less output, and when using it and with the D800, you will have virtually no loss of IQ (if you are not making huge prints). Not so much with the D700 obviously. A small increase in ISO goes a long way when using flash. Good luck with it!</p>

<p>I am expecting the new cards next week and will do some testing and report the results.</p>

<p>I have purchased numerous Meike and they have always been excellent. Sorry to hear that this one is not. But it does seem to have all the right features, so for the money it is not too bad, and is possibly a better value than a low end Nikon flash. What body will you be using it with?</p>

<p>Thanks, that is the info I was looking for. Your results do show improvement over my older cards. I guess I will be buying some new cards. Much appreciated!</p>

<p>Unfortunately, you will need to upgrade in order to use Photoshop with the D610 NEF files (support for the D610 was first added to Adobe Camera Raw 8.3 which is only compatible with CS6 and CC). But you should be able to use the DNG converter and continue using CS4:</p> <p>http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/digital-negative.html</p> <p>Enjoy your new camera!</p>

<p>Your body should be supported by CS4. You need to check which version of ACR you have - if it is not at least ACR 4.4.1, this is likely your problem. If automatic updates won't work, you will have to download and install ACR 4.4.1 manually. Here is a link:</p> <p><br /> http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=3896<br /> </p> <p>You should be able to install up to version 5.6 of ACR with CS4. Here is a link for version 5.6:</p> <p>http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4622</p> <p>Hope you can get this issue resolved.</p>

<p>If you can afford it, the 24-70mm f2.8 is a really fine lens for weddings.</p>

<p>Have you used both? Do you find a noticeable difference between the write speeds of the two with the OMD-EM1?</p>

<p><em>"I must have pressed some wrong button - but which - and where?"</em><br> Possibly.<br> Not sure why those options are grayed out for you but whenever I have had a settings issue that I could not resolve, resetting the camera to factory default setting usually corrected the issue. I know this can be a pain because you have to go through and redo all you settings but it may resolve your issue.</p>

<p>Dave, most Nikon FX bodies work perfectly. The bottom line is that FX, for many is better. And for many, DX is fine. DX bodies and not immune to having issues. And either are Canon bodies - there are several that have had serious issues too.</p>