aaron_lam

I apologize if I missed it but these tests are not accurate unless you have the camera on a tripod or a table or something to keep the distance to the subject still. You can't depend on hand holding a "test" shot. The shutter speed has nothing to do with it... shutter speed is used for freezing action.

 

It is very possible to change the distance to subject from the time you AF confirm and shutter release... even at 1/500. Ideally, you should use a remote or timer and MLU to remove as many variables as possible.

re: the 2.8 vs 4 issue...

 

Of course lenses with wider max apertures will have a tougher time locking focus. But let's assume he is not shooting a low light wedding or a Charger's game. There are a lot of compromises being made and the AF difference b/w f/2.8 and f/4 is probably the least of the concerns he should have... especially if none of these shots are taken on assignment.

 

For all practical purposes, f/4 especially on a USM L lens would suit you just fine for travel.

If it was me... and I could only bring 1 lens... it WOULD be a 50mm.

<i>In my experience, the guys that carry the fast primes usually do get the shot (usually employing the "crop

room" tecnique") but the guys who carry versatile zooms usually get the shot with some creative flare (which is

afforded by the varying focal lengths which is why we carry large, expensive DSLR's with various

lenses...............)</i>

<p>

Actually... in my experience... faster lens allows you to be more creative with framing and depth of field. Zooms

to me feel more generic (unless you a strictly shooting landscapes) and typically flatter.

<p>

I have been to SE Asia many times and in my experience... there was a lot of walking, dusty situations and if you

are going to Hong Kong... great evening neon light shots. If you are restricted to ONE lens... the 24-105 seems

like a no brainer... I'd bring a 50mm over the 24-70... the range just isn't versatile enough. BUT if you are

asking about a kit to bring... I'd say a WA (16-35/17-40, or 24L or 28mm), 50mm, and tele (70-200 flavor... the

f/4 being much lighter or 100mm macro or 135L).

<p>

My personal choice being: 24L, 50f/1.4, 70-200f4IS.

<p>

Have a great trip.

<br><br><br>

 

aaron

It is 10MB/sec... about 3 min to dump a 2GB card... more than fast enough especially when shooting on the road and allowing me one less device to worry about.

I don't know why these aren't more popular... but I use the Sandisk SD Plus. The thing folds out to hood directly into a USB port... no adapter needed. I like them so much I actually got a cheapo SD to CF adapter and use two SD Plus cards in my 1D.

 

I have never bumped on transfer rates for these... I don't shoot tons of consecutive shots but I am sure they are fine for general shooting...

He might be talking about a tilt and shift lens effect.

I would take a different approach. If you know you want to shoot portraits and weddings and some outdoors (I actually don't know what that means... landscapes?), I would get a few lenses that specialize in portraits and weddings instead of trying to cover all your focal lengths.

 

I'd go XTi (or used 20D)- $519, 17-40L - used for under $500, 50 f/1.8 - $70, 85 f/1.8 - $320, a flash unit and some memory cards. This is if you want to really shoot portraits and weddings.

 

Pick up a 70-200 f/2.8 or 200 f/2.8 when you have some more dough.

Or pbase: http://www.pbase.com/cameras

Depends on what kind of wildlife... it should be fine for non-moving moose but it might be a bit slow for diving falcons. For general purpose wildlife... it should be fine.

 

Check out: http://www.pixel-peeper.com/

You can send them out to a service to be scanned also.

 

I scanned all my valuable negs and slides a few years ago. The negs/slides are still stored only because I can't bare to toss them. I feel as time goes on... better scans are available for cheaper. So I might rescan all my slides/negs at a higher resolution...

It is generally true for SLR's. They might release P&S other times. They want to time a press release for a time when the most people will be listening... being one of the big trade conventions. So they can create a big drum roll. Just like Apple releasing products at Macworld.

You should wait to see WHAT the price of the 5DII, if announced, will be. It might be out of your budget but you never know.

 

The 5D is going to be closer to the A2e "as a camera body" than the 40D. Primarily, because it is full frame and your current lenses will translate correctly (you didn't mention any lens upgrade). Especially if wide angels are important to you. Both will be better in terms of AF, metering etc.

 

You can't compare than to film in terms of better or worse... they are different. But the market I think has dictated if the quality of digital is on par to the quality of film.

 

Only you can decide if your lenses are "good enough" for the bodies. Your lenses don't get any worse with the body... you'll just be given the opportunity to see more detail that you might not have noticed before. If they were good enough for you to print 16X20 off of film before... they'll probably be good enough to print 16X20 off digital. They don't get worse because of the camera body you stick on them.

 

Both the 40D and 5D have more features than the A2e (outside the eye control). The 40D obviously has more features than the 5D but none of them will take a better picture for you.

 

Dust is going to be a problem in digital... no getting around this. Dust removal system or not.

 

If in body flash is important to you... then I guess a 5D is out. For me, I'd get an external flash anyway... your pictures will thank you for it... but maybe not your back.

 

Both are perfectly capable of printing to 16X20.

It's a great lens but probably not fast enough for your purposes. I 135 f/2, 100 f/2 or 85 f/1.8 might work better. As stated above... what camera body are you using? A 30D, 40D, 1D/s III, 5D would be able to handle high ISO noise better.

 

Just to clarify... you need a fast longer (not wider) lens.

Or just start here: http://www.photo.net/learn/

They are both above average consumer lenses. So not as good a 24-70 f/2.8L but better than the 28-90mm.

 

Check:

 

http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/24-85

 

http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showcat.php?cat=27

 

http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-Zoom-Lens-Reviews.aspx

 

http://www.photographyreview.com/cat/lenses/35mm-zoom/PLS_3128crx.aspx

Make sure you are running ACR 4.2.

 

See: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00MaOb

Shouldn't be anything to set in Bridge... did you run an update to make sure you have the latest drivers to support the 40D?

I don't think the weight of a lens would damage the lens mount... but I would play it safe if possible... that is what I am trying to say.

It's better to mount to the lens for balance and control. I am sure it does put a bit of weight on the camera mount but I have never heard of a camera mount being ripped out of the body because of the weight. But I wouldn't store the lens mounted to the camera and the camera body attached to a tripod.

 

You can carry the body with the lens attached no problem. You'll find it easier to handle on a tripod with it mounted to the lens.

Okay. Are you shooting basketball professionally? It doesn't sound like it. You SURELY don't NEED a 1DII or 1DIII. If you are going to drop another $2K-4K, get faster lenses. You have two bodies. Check out the 50f/1.4 or the 85f/1.8. And for wider, 24L or 35L. You could get 1 wide and both the 50 and 85 for the price of a 1DII.

 

Joesph is right... you need a faster shutter speed. This means higher ISO or faster lens. As for setting the camera to higher ISO, both 5D and 40D are capable of 3200ISO. You need to activate the enhanced ISO. I don't have either bodies anymore so check out your manual.

 

If you don't like the bokeh... that is a lens characteristic. You would need to try a different lens. But the 24/28-70L is about as good as they come.

Lens/Sensor cleaning kit. Rocket blower. What are you doing about power? Extra batteries.

 

They do make underwater cases for the 400D but for true underwater cases... they aren't cheap: http://store.aikotradingstore.com/nefaf4.html

 

You might be better off with the Pentax Optio W30... it'd be a nice backup camera as well: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LXZYKW?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=yahoo-ce-20&linkCode=asn

I am sure it also helps he has a huge nude gallery. Porn still rules the internet (not saying his work is porn or not good... he has fantastic nudes but that subject matter is obviously an edge for popularity :)

Wow... you have some really beautiful shots on your website. Good luck with the video. I think you'll need to research into a camera that lets you change out the lenses (Canon XL or Panasonic HVX types) or attach a tele onto it since... just think what lenses you use when shooting stills.

 

Just remember, when shooting video... more than shooting still... you are trying to tell a story.

Those look pretty cool.

 

Another idea if you don't want a camera looking camera bag is to get a messenger bag of some sort (Timbuk2, Crumpler ect) and put a Domke padded insert in there. What you create is a module bag that doesn't look like a bag and can be changed depending on what lens you are using. I personally love Timbuk2 bags...