aaron_lam

I have to really disagree about primes being good walk about lenses. I carry a 24mm / 50mm combo as my primary walk around lenses. They are smaller, lighter and more discreet. More importantly, they are much faster than any zooms. Yes, you get convenience but the primes forces you to zoom a little with your feet and get more creative. You also start to "see" in a certain focal length. The only zoom I like to bring with me is the 70-200 for the exact reasons mentioned... sometimes you can't get close enough because of boundaries.

 

I have a set of zooms for convenience and ease/quickness of use. But I wouldn't trade my primes for anything as they give hands down better image quality, are much much faster and usually smaller and lighter. The will give you those images that just POP.

 

For the OP question, it depresses me but at one time or another have owned the 24L, 28f/1.8, 35f/2, 35L, 50f/1.8, 50f/1.4, 50L, 85f/1.8, 85L, 100f/2, 100macro, 200L.

 

The 35L is probably the best most versatile prime I ever used. The 85L / 135L are also right at the top.

 

If you want cheaper, I actually think the 50 f/1.4 is the best bang for your buck. Your 35 f2 is really good too (just crappy AF). The 200 f/2.8L is also a great bargain for what you get. The 100 macro USM is also really nice for close up portraits and of course... macros (probably one of the sharpest in Canon's lineup).

 

Canon has a really nice selection of primes.

Oh... if you want wider than a 20mm, I would recommend the 17-40mm... that is probably the best in your price range (and just about any price range really).

You guys are horrible pushing her towards zooms! :)

 

Just kidding... I went through an all zoom phase and now into a all prime phase. Zooms no matter what what level (I have both the 70-200f/2.8 IS and the 24-70L which are regarded as two of the best zooms) still don't match up to a good prime. A mediocre prime will still be close to the level of a high end zoom.

 

If you do landscapes and food, you don't NEED a zoom. It is convenient. And at small apertures... I actually hear the 18-55 is no slouch.

 

That said, I would recommend:

 

Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro. Totally underrated, super sharp and relatively cheap.

Canon 20mm f/2.8. Yes, I have heard all the complaints but I give you one photographer who praises this lens and uses it as his only wide angle. Look at his work and you be the judge. On your crop, it won't be as wide but also won't be as soft in the corners: http://www.nickonken.com/

 

And just a small critique, it is not always that appealing to have so much depth of field in your food shots. Seeing the salt and pepper shakers etc is not always attractive. I would try to isolate the food more even if it means blurring our some of it.

 

Lastly, check out Flickr.com and pbase.com. You can search for many cameras and lenses and see examples and what people can do with it.

 

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

Is this your first DSLR?

 

When you tested for manual, did you put the lens in manual also?

 

Make sure your mirror lock up isn't on, your timer isn't on. Set your lens in manual, put your camera in M mode, set the shutter speed for 1/125 and fire away. Nothing will probably be in focus or exposed properly but it will test your shutter response. If it is still giving you a problem... there is probably something wrong with the camera.

 

Shutter lag is negligibly on the DSLR camera.

 

Good luck.

 

 

aaron

haha... you can never have too much Maker's Mark on hand.

Standard PJ gear is 16-35 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 IS, flash units and (2) 1-series bodies. You can't risk switching lenses and missing a shot so primes are not practical.

 

BUT this doesn't sound like PJ work: "Most of his work will involve shooting Company events (outdoors & indoors), group photos for example of Senior management, feature stories at some the airline's destinations, corporate portraits."

 

It sounds more like an event photographer.

 

For 15,000 you could get the zooms and the non-L primes.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-8740-9068-9141

except for size... the 30D in probably all respects.

Unless you are a SERIOUS macro shooter... I don't understand why you'd bring the lenses you are. The kit lens can't be used with the 7n so you are only using the macro on that camera?

If you think the 50mm f/1.4 is the best thing since sliced bread... you should pick up at 35mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.2 or 135 f/2.

 

You can get the 300mm f/4 IS for under $1000 commonly on the used market. That will be your best bet... unless you can afford one of the big boys.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

Everything said above with emphasis on neutral grad filters. The 10D is perfectly capable of taking great sunset pictures.

 

Depending on what type of sunset shots you are after, don't rule out using your 100-400IS. Just don't zoom and look directly into the sun. But some of those shots where the sun fills the frame had to be made with 300mm+ depending on what season it is.

 

Good luck,

 

 

aaron

I understand what you guys are saying but there aren't THAT many choices when it comes to digital... film days was a bit different as any camera can use the film you want. For instance, would you pick a 1DsII over a 30D simply b/c it felt better or would other factors such as PRICE and full frame really make the different. Battery grips are one option.

 

Just saying that I don't think the "fit" of a camera in my hand has ever made the decision for me. Yes, I like Canon feel, lens selection and ergonomics better and that is why I went with that system but once you are in that system... not that much of a choice. Small - bigger - bigger - biggest.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

Is how the camera feels in your hand an important feature that goes into deciding which camera to buy? Maybe you should worry about crop factors, frame rates, weather sealing, etc.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

aaron

I owned the 24mm f/1.4 (along with the 16-35 f/2.8, 24 f/2.8) and ended up selling it b/c I never felt it's CLOSE-UP performance was that consistent. Sometimes, the image would be sharp and other times it would be off. Focusing at further distance usually resulted in very nice results but not nearly as nice as the 35 f/1.4. The 16-35mm gave me better range... just not as fast. Stopped down to f/4-f/5.6... it is very sharp... wide open, it is definitely usable.

 

Do you need the speed? I have never owned one but the 24 TSE is supposed to be Canon's best 24mm.

 

Not very conclusive but directly addresses your question:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/24-vs-24.shtml

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

Any Sony Pictures movie will also be likely to host Sony TVs, Sony Ericsson cell phones and Sony cameras.

 

Universal has a deal with Panasonic.

 

A lot of the choices are left up to the propmaster. Many times, there is a artistic "look" they are trying to get that a MAC vs PC might not offer or less likely Canon VS Nikon... more likely Canon/Nikon vs Leica.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

Watch any movie from Sony Pictures and you will be sure to find a slew of Vaio's.

 

There is no exclusivity in product placement... whoever gets there first, pays the most money or has a relationship with the filmmakers.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

This might sound stupid but did you reboot?

The 35mm L f/1.4 is one of the best lenses in the Canon lineup... can't be beat.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

Arthur Morris is commonly considered one of the best bird photographers today. He IS great... hosted one of those Canon Safari shows that used to be on ESPN 2... wished they bring back.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron

http://www.photo.net/digital/editing/bwconvert/

 

There are numerous other articles online. B&W Conversion is an art form and getting the image right is very subjective... and will take a lot of experimenting.

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

To me, this photo looks like you were too close. What was the shooting distance? The shutter speed said 1/250 so camera shake shouldn't be a problem.

 

The spikes that are in focus look like they are in the same plane. Was this on a tripod? Or was swaying into the image a possibility?

 

You can rule out sensor misalignment if this problem only happens with this lens. If it happens with ALL your lenses, then you got a camera problem. Most lenses (even crappy ones) are reasonably sharp b/w f\8 and f\11. You an run some tests.

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

I have both the 24-105 and the 100 macro USM. The bokeh is not on the level of the 50 f/1.2 or 85 f/1.2 but it is leaps and bounds beyond any prosumer zoom.

 

The 100 Macro is actually a more fun portrait lens to me since you can get closer than just the typical headshot. Especially for your baby who is going to be small. The working distance is much closer and more intimate. I think the 24-105 would yield more traditional portraits and the 100 macro will let you be a bit more creative.

 

The 17+35 + 100 macro seems much more of an interesting range than the 24-105. Depends on what else you like to shoot and how you like to shoot. If I could only leave one lens no my camera... the 24-105 would be up there on my choices but it would be my last choice to only have one lens... kind of defeats the purpose of having an SLR.

 

I'd say get the 100 macro USM and a 50 f/1.4.. or f/1.8 if you must.

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

Canon Service has let me order pretty much any part requested. They will even help you figure out what part number you need over the phone. I used them on 3 occasions to replace user accessible parts for cameras and lenses.

 

It is definitely a tinker job and I don't know I'd do it with a 70-200 IS but maybe the 18-55mm. The lens are usually filled with electronic wire tape and fitted very properly. I highly doubt that if I took a lens apart, I'd be able to put it back together where it'd work. But maybe you are better mechanically than I am.

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

The only lens that meets all your criteria is the Canon 80-200 f/2.8. You can get a beater for about $500 and a mint one for about $700-$800. It was the predecssor to today's white 70-200 f/2.8 and has rave reviews. Search "magic drainpipe."

 

http://www.photo.net/learn/concerts/mirarchi/concer_i

 

Good luck!

 

 

aaron

I think DSLR technology and the importance of the sensor merits the camera more than just a "box" these days. Try packing in film, a developing lab and a scanner into a 1V. To me, the camera body these days is just as important as the lenses you mount on them. Only difference is you are more likely to upgrade the body than the lenses you own.

 

Best regards,

 

 

aaron