russ_britt3

<p>Two words "Flash Meter"......</p>

<p>Will the photos be taken outside?<br />If so just use the sunny 16 rule.<br />Set the shutter to your film speed, and the F-stop to 16.<br />This works great out in the sun....with film, it will get you very close.</p>

<p>No</p>

<p>Have you contacted Hasselblad in New Jersey for help?</p>

<p>Photographers have been using both of these cameras for decades in the studio with amazing results. <br />As stated for candid style shots these are not the best tools. Any auto focus auto exposure film camera will work great for that.<br />Kids just do not stay still, but in a studio setting they can be controlled some what. </p>

<p> <p>Rollie never made junk, watch the above video. <br />And a 75mm-80mm is the ideal portrait focal length.<br />There are several on ebay now.</p>

<p>Hasselblad in NJ, if they will service it.</p>

<p>If there is just a few pinholes you can get liquid electrical tape. Its just a black plastic liquid that stay flexible.......I have used it on old speaker cones. Its available at most hardware stores usually on the same shelf as the electrical tape. About $6 a bottle...... </p>

<p>I think you would find this old book very helpful?<br /><br /><br />http://www.amazon.com/Zone-VI-Workshop-Fred-Picker/dp/0817405747</p>

<p>I'm sure someone may have a better answer, but I had a photographer friend that used RBs in his studio for years and loved them. But every now and again he would sent the lens in for repair for flash not firing. May just need some attention? </p>

<p>You can use the Magnifying Finder off your camera. If you do this, yes you will see the full frame except when you flip the magnifier down. </p>

<p>I used to have a 645 but from 1980 to present Hasselblad. If you need to change film the Hasselblad is a great choice. Otherwise the Pentax is great, but with a 6X7 or 6X4.5 format a 90 degree Prism is worth its weight in gold.<br /><br />So you need to decide, but I think for landscapes the Pentax with a great tripod and a prism finder would be a great choice. Pentax optics are great too........ </p>

<p>I'm not sure if this helps?<br />I went with ELM bodies when I needed winders, they are very cheap used.<br />And a CM body for when the winder was not needed.<br />I prefer the 45 degree finders over the 90, and use two NC2 prism finders.<br />They also are cheap but have no meters, but you can change the rear diopter on the finder to match your optical prescription if you wear glasses.<br />I add a hasselblad magnifier to one of the finders for critical focus if needed.<br /><br />But this is a different route than you are interested in......just how I did it back in 1980. Still have all the equipment, still works fine. </p>

<p>Have you checked with Hasselblad in New Jersey?<br /><br /><br> Hasselblad USA 10 Madison Rd Fairfield, NJ 07004 (973) 227-7681<br> www.hasselblad.com</p> <p>I got some parts from them last year, that I could find nowhere else.<br />They are great people...</p>

<p>Anthony they made a very limited number of 35mm backs for the V series cameras back in the 60-70s I think. I have never been able to find on or even see one. They were not in production for long I think?</p>

<p>As said a 90 degree finder, and yes you could draw mask lines on the ground glass with grease pencil as this will wipe right off. </p>

<p>Ding ding ding we now have had the experts answer........... </p>

<p>You would open up your possibilities a lot if you used a hand held meter and manually focus your lens.<br />When going to film, especially medium or large format you will find you need to slow down a lot. You will also find best results happen while using a tripod.<br />Just my 2 cents.......shooting medium format from 1975 till now.......so what do I know.<br />An RB will give you a lot of camera for the money, I have been using 500 series Hasselblads from 1980 on.<br /><br />Any of them will give great results if you slow down, none of them are great for fast candids, but saying that with experience that can also be done...Developing your own B&W will give you way more control while following this path.<br /><br />I will now set back while the "experts" tell you what to do...........</p>

<p>Jarrett all you need to do to check for sync is remove the film back. Point the flash on something in front of the lens, look through the camera body/lens while firing the shutter. If you see the flash through the camera body its in sync.<br />I always check my equipment before any important shoot this way.....And yes with electronic flash the shutter needs to be set to the X setting.</p>

<p>Are you shooting film?<br />I would think you would have to, if its not captured on the film how will you "with the goal to adjust with PS later on?"<br /><br />I used a superwide often, a bare bulb gives a great natural light look to images.<br />You can push the film processing, but not put what is not there with PS. <br /><br />I love the superwide camera.......its amazing.<br />Bring a polaroid back with the same asa film you will be shooting. <br />And of course always use a tripod, and a really trusted light meter.<br /><br /></p>

<p>I would try to get the film back, back into locked position first.<br />Then I bet the finder will come off.......<br />Beautiful camera, dont break it.</p>

<p>The 645s had electronic shutters.........</p>

<p>You know the Hasselblad chimney finder works great for this, and are pretty cheap used.</p>

<p>I owned a old 283 flash that was converted to bare bulb that I used to use with a Hasselblad Super Wide. That worked great, ran it off an external battery pack.<br />Some of the older Metz flash units had a wide lens that you put on the front of the flash, you would lose about 1 f-stop but get wider coverage. There are ways of doing this, some of the Gary Fong attachments would possibly work?</p>

<p>The streak looks like a light leak.......the Finder is not really connected to the shutter in any way on that camera.<br />Sounds like you have several problems all at once going on?<br />Not sure who would service those now........good luck.<br />I had that combo back in 1975....switched to Hasselblad in 1980.</p>