russ_britt3

<p>Well I wish all the other "experts" would have answered the question first.......bye</p>

<p>Sounds like you figured it out....probally is the lens. </p>

<p>Ray the insert and back are a matched pair, and always have been.<br />Find the source for this "long body" info?<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>The Hasselblad bodies were machined from a solid block of metal.</p>

<p>"the newer cameras were built to tighter spec" I still have NEVER heard this before. <br />Where did you hear this?</p>

<p>The older bodies can be serviced and brought back to new by factory trained repairmen.<br />I would recommend either David Odess or Hasselblad in New Jersey for this work.<br />Even if you buy a newer camera it too will probally need to be serviced.<br /><br />So it's your call, buy newer and get service or get the one you now have serviced.......they are all mechanical in nature. <br /><br />I have never heard of "incorrect body lengths" not sure I would trust that source for further information?<br />The newer bodies do have updates that you may find useful?</p>

<p>Have you tried firing the shutter with the film back removed?<br />I have seen problems caused by the film back......also if this does not help remove the lens and see if the body fires?<br />This way you can determine where the problem lies , body, back, or lens.</p>

<p>I had two CMs and two ELMs back in the day (1980s), I never found weight to be an issue. <br />As with the weight of the ELMs I got instant return mirror and electronic cable release options. <br /><br />I shot mainly wedding and portraits, the weddings I had a Metz 402 flash on a sanders over the len flash mount.<br> Shooting portraits were alway shot from a tripod, with an electronic release.<br> <br />The main time I used the CMs, were during the wedding ceremony shots as it was quieter.<br />I still have one CM and one ELM and a super wide.......love them all.<br /><br /></p>

<p>To test if its a light leak (I am assuming you mean around the film door) you can put tape (something that will be easly removed without leaving glue) maybe like drafting tape around the door seals. If you shoot film with the seals taped and do not get this then yes it's the seals. But on a camera like that I would think the seals last a very long time? <br />This is how I found I had light leaks on my Hasselblad magazines back in the 80s....and which mags leaked.<br />Higher speed films have more light leak problems.....and the slower you shoot the rolls also adds to the problem.<br />Have fun with that camera......film rules.</p>

<p>What you may be hearing is the camera body curtin stays open until you release the shutter button, the shutter in the lens should not. If it does you need a cleaning and lube, and possibly parts.</p>

<p>Charles most people are telling you what they would do, I used to sell cameras "in the 70s" I always told people to go with their "gut". I you think you know what you want you will always second guess themself if they go with another camera. <br />I think Edward best answered you question (as you said you wanted a Hasselblad) right?<br />You may get one and decide its not really for you.......hope not?<br />See if a friend has one you can borrow, heck if you are near eastern NC I could help.<br />I myself love everything manual, I switched from Maymaya 645 to Hasselblad in 1980.<br />Theses cameras are getting older, and will soon need more service......I would also add a digital camera to the mix for when you have to work faster if possible.<br /><br />But pick the camera YOU like best.<br />Have fun, and good luck.<br /><br /></p>

<p>Even if it's not "T star coated" color film will still come out great, just shield the lens if shooting into the sun. The extra coating is mainly to reduce flair. You have a great camera........have fun with it! </p>

<p>You need new seals in the film back...........I would guess the camera set for a while before you shoot the first frame? The longer between frames give the light leak a longer exposure.</p>

<p>What are you trying to do?<br />These lens sync with flash at all shutter speeds.<br />It's not a focal plane shutter.<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Or you could just consider a square format 35mm.</p>

<p>You can buy just the background rollers with wall brackets, and not the poles. Thats what I did years ago.......they each hold up to three backgrounds.<br /><br />http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/167897-Manfrotto-045?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=googleps&st-t=googleshopping-all_products_low_bid&vt-k=&vt-mt=&vt-pti=167897&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9vi-BRCx1_GZgN7N4voBEiQAaACKVgBiyiYSHy1tWso4Rw-4k3LFszdz_KBxQ2R91QGaBBwaAhSz8P8HAQ</p> <p>Be forewarned that the chains are plastic and will break easily.....when I used this system I bought metal chains and had no more problems.I guess it comes with metal chains now?<br /><br /> /><br /><br /><br /> </p>

<p>First of all find someone that knows Hasselblads to look at them with you if possible.<br />Someone will chime in and disagree with everything I post no matter what I post.<br /><br />The "cheapest" Hasselbad is the ELM motor body camera (approx $200 0r less), they are heavier and need battery's. These batteries are expensive and hard to find......but you can easily convert the camera to run 9 volt batteries. <br />The next would be the CM, do not get the C as you can not change the screens in them without a service background. Hard to guess the price range I would guess around ($400) for a body?<br />All of the newer cameras will cost more......these two were from the early 1980s.<br />You also need a finder Imost bodies include a waist level finder.<br />A low cost eye level finder is the NC2 (should be around $200 or less)<br />Then you need film backs........make sure you get an automatic back.<br />A120 back is called an A12........matching insert if possible. You can tell by serial numbers.<br />I would guess ($150ish range)<br />Then you have the optics......<br />THis is where most will argue <br />A C lens will be the least expensive but older......may require service (some parts are not available)<br />These are silver in finish for the early ones, black for the latter ones.<br />I have several of these with no issues..........All newer optics will cost more, they may need service also?<br />Check slow speeds close on all of them, prices are all over the board?<br />Hundreds to thousands. An 80mm is the normal lens, the 150mm is the main portrait lens used........<br /><br />You can get a complete camera with all of this included if you look..........the A220 back are very cheap but 220 film is not widely available anymore..but you would already know this.<br /><br />I would guess a CM with waist level finder and an 80mm should now be $600-$800 depending on condition><br />All of this equipment is from the early 80s......you can pay $1500 or more for newer cameras.<br />All old film backs WILL need new light seals and this can be DIY and parts are online cheap. If back has film spacing issues it will need service probally at least $100.<br /><br />You can save yourself problems and buy from David as he has serviced everything in advance, or you can buy cheap and send it all to him for check and service.<br /><br />http://www.david-odess.com/<br /><br />Hope this helps...........and all of this will be refuted very soon.<br />Good luck, I made the switch in 1980 myself.<br /><br /> <br /><br /></p>

<p>Doug check you shutter lock.........<br />There is a locking lever beside the shutter release button, if its set on lock mode, the shutter release will stay depressed after the exposure!<br /><br />Check this and get back with me please!</p>

<p>If you turn the slotted cocking button on the lens until it locks in the correct position (the red dot) and cock the camera body it should then just twist on and work.<br />Always, always cock the camera after every exposure and this will not happen......I think you have already guessed this is not a camera fault but operator error that you will learn from.<br />Not picking on you...........but always leave the camera cocked and always leave the len cocked even during long term storage. They are designed to always live cocked!<br /><br />Hope this helps Doug......<br /><br />Have fun with this great camera, it does have a learning curve.</p>

<p>Doug if I read this correctly you removed the lens after taking a photo?<br />If you did not wind the camera before removing the lens that is the problem.<br /><br />You must ALWAYS cock the body before removing or attaching a lens, and always store the len cocked.<br />If you follow this simple rule the camera will more than likely never give a problem. <br /><br />I have been using them from 1980 till now........no problems except worn light seals in the film holders.<br /><br />Always always cock the camera BEFORE removing the lens.......if you read the manual it will explain this.</p>

<p>Make sure you can run a few rolls of film through it......and get them processed. <br />I have learned the hard way that a deal is not a deal if it does not all work.<br />I started with that same camera in 1975...........switched to all Hasselblad in 1980.<br /><br />I had that same set up in the photo, including case.......<br />Good luck!</p>

<p>Set your f-stop for your flash unit, and your shutter speed to capture the ambient light source.......<br /><br />Example: if your flash to subject distance works out to F-8, but your ambient light (non flash) is F-8 at 45 seconds?<br />Then shoot F-8 at 45 seconds. The flash will capture the model, your slow shutter speed will capture the ambient part of the exposure. <br /><br />Its really that simple I learned this from Don Blair, a great master photographer years ago.</p>

<p>Some "stage" lights now have LED replacement assemblies.......google your lights to check this first.<br />That would save money and experimentation.</p>

<p>Two totally different tools, what is the job you intend?<br />The RB 6X7 will give a much better image if you can use a tripod, the 6/4.5 is better for candids......<br /><br />I would get the RB between the two if image quality was the goal, it will slow you down....not a bad thing.</p>

<p><br />A flash meter will give you all the information you need if you know how to use it.<br /><br />If you use the Metz flash in auto mode you will not even have to have a flash meter.<br />You set the camera lens to the f-stop the flash is set for.<br /><br />Example The flash says F-8 for the film speed and distance..........the amount of ambient registering on the image light will change with your shutter speed and that same F-stop. Slower shutter speed more ambient light, faster shutter speed the less the ambient light will register in the image.<br /><br />If you are shooting the Metz in manual, you can either use a flash meter or the guide number for the meter and film speed and do a little math.<br> I used a Hasselblad and Metz 402s years ago.........simply shot in auto and used slow shutter speed to balance ambient light. At weddings I often shot at 1/15 or 1/30 inside as to allow the ambient light to fill the image with asa 400 or faster film. The flash will stop most action, and the ambient light to soften the look........<br /><br />The Master Photographer Don Blair was the best expert on this subject I ever studied under. He often did several minute exposures on location with studio flash units (metz) units by the way with models and the results were amazing. I spent a week learning this from him in the 80s, I learned more in that week that any other person I studied with. <br />Sorry if you are so easily offended...... <br> I will leave you to your own devices now.<br /><br /><br /><br />Its all pretty simple really.......</p>