images_in_light_north_west
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Posts posted by images_in_light_north_west
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<p>It was a pre set I downloaded called something Moon, from Adobe's web site<br>
Ross</p>
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<p>This landscape was shot during the day and PP in Lightroom to look like moonlight.<br>
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<p>Isn't M8 APS-C ? and you have to shoot with an IR filter, now an M9, that would be a trade.</p>
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<p><a href="../photo/9709695">Kerry Park</a> , <a href="../photo/9736631">West Seattle,Alki</a> , Mt Rainier NP, Mt Baker<br>
Just a few. Ross </p>
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<p>Everything should be fine on the camera side, its the computor side you need to look at. I went to a power Mac, I use Lightroom,DPP and CS4. The 5D2 file are pretty large.<br>
Ross</p>
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<p>Hmmm, makes sense, thanks</p>
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<p>Have a chance to buy an EF 300 f2.8L non IS, he is asking $2500, there is no trunk and he says its about a 1995 model and he is the 2nd owner, whta do you think ? decent price or no<br>
Thanks Ross</p>
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<p>Canon cameras have a replacable protector built in, it cost's about $20 to replace if you add a protector on top of your protector it will make it harder to see the image, I have never scratched an LCD cover on all my DSLR's since I first got a 20D. Dont give these people your hard earned money.<br>
Ross</p>
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<p>No would not trade my 5D2 for a 7D, may have both if it turns out to be a lot better IQ than the 50D.</p>
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<p>Actually the clouds on that shot where moving way to fast to do it on the computer, I would no longer call it a blend at that point but more a digital alteration, I am very familiar with blending and prefer to get it right in camera, there are very few times the scene in front of my camera is totally static, there are often moving water,clouds or plants and this becomes an issue for blending, but hey if you want to spend your time in front of a computer or in front of a camera, you decide. Ask some of the top landscape photographers in the world and they will tell you they still use GND filters and if you use the soft edge you wont see it in your image, also using good quality filters helps (no color cast). How quickly we forget what we learned in the film days.<br>
Ross</p>
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<p>I agree with Keith, but at the same time a little dubious about 18mp in an APS-C camera.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>The main problem with the traditional grad ND is that the transition zone is limited to be a straight line/straight band. If you do an HDR merge, that zone can be of irregular shape, thus giving you more flexability.<br>
Moreover, any filter will degrade your image quality a little. It is a small plus when you can avoid that extra GND filter.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Total nonsense, filters are still required see my artical <a href="http://imagesinlightnw.blogspot.com/2009/04/filters-in-digital-age.html">here</a><br>
Ross</p>
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<p>The bigger the pixel the better, hence larger sensors are usualy better because they have larger pixels.</p>
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<p>Lightroom automaticly removes them from RAW files, if thats what you use</p>
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<p>Get the Canon 10-22, you can sell it later, if you want to shoot wide you will need to go to an EFS lens, when I sold mine I got 90% of what I paid, I bought it while there was a rebate<br>
Ross</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>With the current state of the art, 6 micron spacing is considered the best compromise between resolution and noise. This corresponds to about 24MP in a 24x36mm (FX)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>How Nikon centric can we get. It realy depends on what you shoot, if its deep or narrow depth of feild and the quality of your lens comes in to play also, here is a go by for <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-II-DSLR-Digital-Camera-Review.aspx">Canon cameras </a> check the DLA (diffraction limited aperture) if your shooting narrow depth of feild you can get away with much smaller pixels than shooting landscape type work.<br>
Ross</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>With the current state of the art, 6 micron spacing is considered the best compromise between resolution and noise. This corresponds to about 24MP in a 24x36mm (FX)</p>
<p>How Nikon centric can we get. It realy depends on what you shoot, if its deep or narrow depth of feild and the quality of your lens comes in to play also, here is a go by for <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-II-DSLR-Digital-Camera-Review.aspx">Canon cameras </a> check the DLA (diffraction limited aperture) if your shooting narrow depth of feild you can get away with much smaller pixels than shooting landscape type work.<br>
Ross</p>
</blockquote>
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<p>I would think for fine art prints, 24 x 36 would be a stretch for a 12mp camera, that is the 5D MkII's strong point.<br>
Ross</p>
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<p>My thoughts on this subject are <a href="http://imagesinlightnw.blogspot.com/2009/03/sharpest-zoom-ever-ef-70-200-f4-l-is.html">here</a></p>
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<p>My Lee 4x6's each came with a wallet, you can buy them seperatly I believe</p>
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<p>try posting in digital darkroom</p>
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<p>We can hope they keep the mp down a least until they find a fix, but they need to realize we just don't need 15mp in a point and shoot camera, at least most of us don't. I hope they now work on IQ.</p>
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<p>They will probably do DSLR stuff Sept 2nd, I dont think they normally do P&S the same day as DSLR's</p>
What Viewing Software?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted