images_in_light_north_west

<p>iphoto, is crop, use cs3 to bring in your images from your cf card and get a a good photo browser like Photomechanic, I still cant believe people actually use iphoto, they owe it to themselfs to try something different, try it free at there site <a href="http://www.camerabits.com/pages/demoreg.cgi">here</a><br>

Ross</p>

<p>Costco now has the Dell 3007wfp for $999, is this still a good panel in todays market, it is an IPS panel made by LG I believe, here is the link to Costco<br>

<a href="http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11269564">http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11269564</a><br>

Regards, Ross</p>

<p>If you get a Dell only get the Ultrasharp Wide Flat Panels. The Samsung Syncmasters are also very good.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>For landscape I use a lot of live view now and dont deal with the recompose issue, I expose, lock and then move the focus box with the joy stick and focus<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Tommy, the 24-105 is a very sharp lens<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Dont use the extender on a zoom, I do some of the same type of work <a href="http://rossmurphy.zenfolio.com/p740463715/h1ab24061#h1ab24061">here</a> is one with the 300 f4, your set up a lot like me but I have the 300f4 which I find works well for this type of lanscape. <a href="http://rossmurphy.zenfolio.com/landscape/h2a7ecfb6#h2a7ecfb6">Here</a> is one more with the 300 f4. Also consider adding a crop camera to extend your range, turns your 70-200 in to a 112-320.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>If your looking to isolate an object usually the f2.8 versions will be better, the only one I have not had is the f4 none IS, I like them all, but I settled on the f4 IS, but I do miss the 2.8 IS version some times, the f4 IS does well in low light by the way, but the 2.8 will always do better in low light. Take a look at this article on my blog <a href="http://imagesinlightnw.blogspot.com/2009/03/sharpest-zoom-ever-ef-70-200-f4-l-is.html">Sharpest zoom ever</a> hope it helps. Good luck.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>What Dave T said, take a look at the 40D, cost ,software and lenses are all on your side, if you spend a lot less now you can still upgrade later and I think this will give you a better feel for what a better camera feels like with out killing your pocket book, the 40D still holds up well and in my opinion is better than the 50D if you dont print.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>What Dave T said, take a look at the 40D, cost ,software and lenses are all on your side, if you spend a lot less now you can still upgrade later and I think this will give you a better feel for what a better camera feels like with out killing your pocket book, the 40D still holds up well and in my opinion is better than the 50D if you dont print.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>I shoot RAW only and carry plenty of 8gb cards, for some casual stuff I will shoot small fine jpg and RAW.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>You realy need a tripod, I do it all the time stitching 3 images with a 5D2 and either a 24-105 or a 70-200, you dont want to use a wide angle lens, here is one that is 3 shots stitched<br>

<a href="http://rossmurphy.zenfolio.com/latest/h2c86ab5d#h2c86ab5d">http://rossmurphy.zenfolio.com/latest/h2c86ab5d#h2c86ab5d</a><br>

tripod and BH-1 ballhead</p>

<p>Ross</p>

<p>Take a look at the 5D Mk II, maybe ask some questions in the EOS forum and look at the new 17mm and 24mm Canon tilt shift lenses. Canon probably has the better selection of lenses for your type of work, but probably a tad more noise in their cameras, but not by much and you wont notice it a all at the ISO's you need for architectural photography. Be prepared to spend some big cash for tilt shift lenses. <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-Lens-Reviews.aspx">Canon lens reviews</a><br>

Ross</p>

<p>If you dont shoot wide or tele then yes the 24-105 is a very nice lens<br>

Ross</p>

<p>What about IQ ? I don't think anything is more important than the end result.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Well when you put it the way you did, you might see a little differance. but if you use the 5D to its full capability you will see a big differance.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Got to agree with others on the 5D Mk II, it is much better than the 20,30,40,50 and 5D as far as noise and IQ, you must have got a bad copy and early test's I've seen on the 7D are not making me run out and buy it and I want a crop camera to go with my 5D Mk II.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Or if the water is very shaded you may well not need anything, I usually only need a CPL, but if I am trying to get part of the forest I will use a GND also.<br>

Ross</p>