images_in_light_north_west

Absolutly not, take it if you have room, excellent lens to isolate subjects, especially at Bryce.

Ross

For jpg No

you have millions of pixels dont worry about a few

<p>I mean real metal see link http://www.imagewizards.net/products/</p>

<p>I have my images dry mounted on acid free foam board, I use a Pure White 8ply mat 2" - 3" around the image with museum glass and plain black brushed aluminum frame about 1", don't take away from your image with fancy mats and frames, keep it simple and elegant, a cheap frame will turn a client off. This is a little more expensive but you want to show quality goods. Don't rush it.<br /> Ross</p>

I have begun this process and paper is something you will have to experiment with, get some sample packages from places like this http://www.fineartinkjetpaper.com/ there is an art to printing and it takes a while to figure it all out, by the way I use an ipf 6100 and regularly print 24 x 36 prints, if you want to do it yourself its expensive, I recommend you start by making a relationship with a local frame shop that will give you discounts, I use Aaron Brothers, they regularly give me 25% or more off because I return all the time, they do my dry pressing, mats and frames, try this till you figure out exactly what you want to do as far as work at home, presses are expensive and you will need a lot of room at home.

I ended up with Hahnemuhle photo Rag 308 for B and W and Museo Silver Rag for color, but there are a million options out there, do a lot of reading and make sure you are calibrated first. try also Luminous Landscapes forums and the Canon IPF wiki. The new metal printing looks pretty cool.

 

Ross

You spent a lot of money on the 5D2, now spend some on a good lens. Get Lightroom after you upgrade your computer and use DPP that came with your camera, maybe CS5 later if you need it.

I am going to have to agree with Nathanial here, the 5D2 offers a lot compared to the original and is priced less than the original 5D was when it was released, I think a lot of people underestimate live view and what it can do for photographers, at first I ignored it, but later found that was my mistake.

Ross

I think they shoot when the light is good, that is the biggest key to landscape photography, knowing the software is big and knowing the camera is big, but it takes some time to learn it all. Try a free down load of Lightroom and play with it a little, i use lightroom on my RAW files, export a TIFF and adjust in CS4. Knowing what and how to make adjustments and having a consistent workflow will really help you, also knowing how to downrez your images for web viewing is a key factor for the web.

Ross

<p>Do you shoot RAW ? what software do you process with ?</p>

Souds like the 5D2, both are great cameras with high resolution, the 5D2 will give you better high ISO and overall better IQ and like Nathaniel said, the LV with exposure simulation is a fantastic new tool in its latest incarnation, I enjoy using this camera. Same on the lenses, use yours untill you find their limitations. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Standard Zoom Lens, will be very nice on the 5D2.

 

Ross

you dont need a special head made for panoramas, a standard ball head will work fine, I do it all time

ross

You should see a significant improvement in printing, I know I did when I went from the 5D to the 5D2, I print 24 x 36 with no problem, the 17-40 is good at f11, but from my experience the 16-35 f2.8 II is better and if you go the the TS 24mm II, I think you will be very happy if you looking for extreme depth of field

If you want the best of Canon wide Zooms, get the 16-35 II, otherwise the 17-40 is quite a good lens, just depends on how picky you are and how much you can spend on this lens. I prefer the 16-35 II.

 

Ross

If you like the system (Canon) then sure, you are building a system, the 5D2 is an excellent camera and Canon has an excellent system in the 5D2, you will get very good high iso and big resolution and so far a wider range of lenses and flash and 3 formats to choose from (1.6x, 1.3x, FF) you can hardly go wrong with either system, but at the moment Canon has the resolution advantage while Nikon has the low light advantage in the lower to mid range cameras. Ergonomiclly its just what your used to, once you get used to a system the ergonomics become second nature.

Ross

<blockquote>

<p>I agree, Ross. My poorly-phrased comment was intended to mean that if the option was 5D2 + £350 lens, then buy the 7D and get a £1,000 lens for the same money.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>that makes more sense, I would rather a 7D and a good lens than a 5D2 and a so so lens<br>

Ross</p>

"If you can afford only £350 for a zoom lens then I would not even consider putting it on the 5D2 – it just cannot match the resolution of the camera. If all you are after is the high ISO then consider the 7D and continue buying a lens suitable for APS-C cameras (the saving over the 5D2 will give you a nice lens). But again resolution will be wasted."

 

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The 7D is harder on lenses than the 5D2, remember the 7D has smaller pixels, as the above suggested at that price range it will have to be an off brand lens, like, Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8

Be careful not to go to light, I hike for miles and still take a G3130 and Kirk BH-1 with a 5D2 16-35 II, 24-105, 70-200 f4 IS, I learnt allready not to use to light a tripod, the above is fine if you use a good comfortable backpack and you are in reasonable shape.

Ross

You will love the 5D2 and a good lens to go with it would be the 24-70 f2.8 if that covers your need as far as focul length, this is basicly the full frame equivalent of the 17-55 minus the IS, but still a great lens, actually arguably better.

Ross

<p>get a used 300 f4 to go with your 70-200 and leave the TC at home<br>

Ross</p>

<p>I use Lee and their wide angle holder with 4x6 filters on my 16-35 II and generaly no problems, you will need to remove the outer 2 filter holders from the foundation kit or buy the wide angle hood with a single slot, the Singh Ray filters can be modified to fit by gluing strips down their edges to fit the thicker gaps on the Lee holder. you may want to read <a href="http://imagesinlightnw.blogspot.com/2009/04/filters-in-digital-age.html">this</a></p>

<p>Ross</p>

<p>From a climbing perspective, I would hate to summitt with a 5D2 and an L lens(to heavy), unless you are talking a none tech. climb, however for landscape I couldn't see being with out my 5D2 and L lenses.</p>

<p>I would say if you can afford it and its a good camera, yes. You will enjoy going FF.</p>

<p>I too am looking at the 24mm and think it would be more advantagous than the 17mm, I went back and looked a couple times at where I shot in the past and found both focal lengths to be popular in my image library, I will want to use GND and CPL filters so that rules out the 17mm for me and stitching is pretty easy to do if I want to go wider as shown in one of the above examples, I was pretty tempted by the 45mm, but will start with the 24mm lens.</p>

<p>Ross</p>

<p>Iso 100 for 5s and 25 hot pixels to me is unacceptable if they cant be permanently mapped out, but if you bought it used ($1000 discount) thats probably why it was returned to begin with. The most i have ever seen on mine was 3 hot pixels at 30s, iso 100.<br>

Ross</p>

<p>Maybe you should try a 1D3, I would by a used camera if I could examine it first, that would give you great IQ and smaller files with top of the line auto focus and speed. Maybe not wide enough for you though.<br>

Ross</p>