Spearhead

<blockquote> <p>Do you want an authoritative answer? Ask Jack and Ed at <a href="http://www.thecopyrightzone.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.thecopyrightzone.com</a></p> </blockquote> <p>John H.'s answers are about as authoritative as they come.</p>

<blockquote> <p>But the all-in-one iMac, the ram is soldiered tight in iMac's.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Only on the 21" version.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Nobody is interested in printing digital pictures.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Have any facts on this? Because there are facts on some of the big digital printing shops.</p>

<p>I used to use a Domke strap wrapped around my wrist. I prefer something that is not around my neck unless I am changing lenses, so I now use the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1007308-REG/joby_jb01303_bww_convertible_neck_strap.html">Joby Convertible Strap.</a> On a smaller dSLR that I sometimes carry, I don't need the neck strap so I use the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/998461-REG/joby_jb01271_pww_dslr_wrist_strap_charcoal.html">Joby Wrist Strap.</a> Both are well-thought out straps that work well.</p>

<blockquote> <p>If your copyright notice was on them you may have cause for legal action</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Copyright notice is not required for legal action when there is an infringement.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Reproduce his work without pay or attribution and see how happy he is about that.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> That is certainly going to be a net positive, just increase the abuse rather than trying to fix it.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Many people seem to love the idea that you never have to use flash "because you can just push up the ISO"; I find the idea that it's great to shoot everything in available light a mistaken one. Often the low light is just horribly flat, dull and yielding zero contrast.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> While I agree with the first part of this, the second I don't find to be true for what I often shoot, which is music and dance performance on stages with interesting but very low levels of light and quite a bit of movement. It's common not to allow flash in larger venues.</p>

<blockquote> <p>The Df mode dial doesn't include the options you cited.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> The Df mode dial has manual and aperture priority, which are what I said I used.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Who flicks between modes within a minute? And why? </p> </blockquote> <p> <br> I do it all the time shooting indoors. I switch between ambient (Av,) slow sync flash (Av and M,) and bounce flash (M) regularly. </p>

<p><blockquote>Rather than spend money on books, get a software package like Nik HDR EFEX Pro and play with with the wide set of presets that it gives you.</blockquote><br> <br><p> This is a great idea. There aren't many books being written. I will also recommend Nik's online tutorials, even if you are using some other tool(s) for HDR. They show the steps to take, going through complete image transformation. Some of their tutorials use outside photographers and do not come across as advertising. There is a list <a href="https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=nik+hdr+efex+pro+2">here</a>.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Interesting that they change it. I don't really like logo straps so I don't use the CPS strap or the ones that come with the camera bodies.</p>

<blockquote> <p>It is made by <a href="http://optechusa.com/straps/classic-strap.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><em>OP/Tech USA</em></a> for Canon CPS.</p> </blockquote> <p><br /> Lupo's got it almost right, it's<a href="http://optechusa.com/straps/pro-strap.html"> this one</a> from Op/Tech. You can find the Canon CPS version on Ebay but people either ask for very high prices (2-3x the Op/Tech version) or are trying to sell straps that come with cameras claiming they are CPS straps.</p>

<p>It's a little hard to tell in the photo but I believe it's the strap you get when you join CPS. It looks like the one I received. I've never used it so I can't tell you if it's any good.</p>

<p>If they are later than Adobe for supported Canon cameras...</p>

<p>What is the strength of your glasses? That will tell you.</p>

<blockquote> <p>This wouldn't tbe the first time that manufacturers have allegedly attempted to game reviews.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Nobody has provided any evidence of that. They changed an internal component. </p>

<center><img src="http://spirer.com/hsf2014/content/images/large/_P9A5015.jpg" alt="" /></center>

<p>I can barely read it, combination of the font and size.</p>

<p>Many floaters don't cover international travel. </p>

<p>I don't think seeing them is all that interesting.<br> <br />I just have an Ikea desk with an add-on tray for keyboard and trackpad. A couple speakers. A 27" iMac with four disc drives in back. A card reader. An old margarita glass with a few tablespoons rotting inside. A Frida Kahlo doll. A UPS. The router. A rolling file cabinet underneath. A printer desk with two printers next to it. Not all that interesting to see and not easy to show without at least three photos.</p>

<p>You can probably do it with Skitch. Skitch lets you "annotate" photos and there is no reason this can't be a watermark. I don't know if there is a way to make something over a photo translucent in Skitch, but it's pretty full-featured so it may be in there.</p>

<p>My experience with Yongnuo flashes leads me to believe that they work just fine but are not built as well as Canon flashes. I found the tilt/rotation to be less secure than the Canons.<br> <br />On the other hand, my 580EXii was the most problematic flash I ever owned. It doesn't have a great reputation, and mine died after two years, went in to Canon for service, and recently died again. I picked up a 600, which reviewers seem to like better. Hopefully I won't have to send it in after two years.</p> <p>I use a Yongnuo radio setup. Huge difference from Canons is that it has its own assist light, which I need in the environments I shoot in.</p>

<p>Lightroom Mobile doesn't work yet with Android, so that's not a good solution.</p>

<p>If you want something wider, and you can afford it, the Canon 17-40/4 is a fine lens. If you want to spend more, you can buy the Canon 16-35/2.8, but unless you really need the extra stop, it's not going to make a lot of difference in your photos and it definitely isn't in the "budget" category. The 17-40 isn't that expensive, especially used.</p>

<p>I seriously doubt that the cameras being full frame made the photos amazing. You should be fine with the 10-22, you can rent it first if you want to see how it works for you.</p>