Jump to content

mad1

Members
  • Posts

    648
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mad1

  1. I Higly recommend you the Diafine with any bw film. The only thing you have to do is to adjust the iso for the dev. No matter what Temperature and even time for dev. 2 baths dev. gives nice results, low contrast, fine grain and high resolution and also a good film speed. ex: delta 100 has to be exposed at 200...
  2. any developer are good, depends on what results you want.It's possible to achieve good results using hc-110 but only if you like grainy pic or even diafine to obtain a wide gray range in your pictures and a fine grain. I really like diafine.

    I just bought 5 boxes of 1 gal. Rodinal in Costa Rica in a Agfa store... It still possible to buy some in the world. you'll be able to buy few on Ebay at a ridiculous price... Go take a look btw!

    Good luck, better use another dev...

  3. Hi!

    We found a Ton of Agfa Cronex Mediacl X-ray Film (5X12in) 10T exp.2004/02 in a

    old hospital still air conditionned. These films are new in boxes. We want to

    cut them in 4x5 to fit my Graflex Speed Graphic. I want to know if it's

    possible to pull something good, out of this, even if it x-ray sensitive... I

    have a Infrared Filter from Hoya (R-72), could it be helpfull? Wich kind of

    process do we need? Is it a possible thing to try? Thanks All!

  4. Hi!

     

    I have a Color Beseler Motor Base and I process many sizes of film (35,

    6x6 and 4x5)and I need your recipes (E.I. vs Developer vs Time vs Zones in the

    scene) N+1, N and N-1 etc... Any1 has ever tried Fortepan 200 in 4x5? Any1 has

    these real 'exposition standards like Ansel Adams made' the zone system. Recipes

    coming out of a real long work, using densitometer and calculated curves to give

    the E.I. of your film in relation w/ your own processing technic, that is

    different for each person. If someone would like to give me one of his

    'standard' It will be a real good starting point with my drum (Unicolor)

    processing. Or any regular, good looking recipes you like.

     

    Thanks.

     

    Marc-Andre Dumas

  5. Hi!

    I have a Color Beseler Motor Base and I process many sizes of film (35, 6x6 and

    4x5)and I need your recipes (E.I. vs Developer vs Time vs Zones in the scene)

    N+1, N and N-1 etc... Any1 has ever tried Fortepan 200 in 4x5? Any1 has these

    real 'exposition standards like Ansel Adams made' the zone system. Recipes

    coming out of a real long work, using densitometer and calculated curves to give

    the E.I. of your film in relation w/ your own processing technic, that is

    different for each person. If someone would like to give me one of his

    'standard' It will be a real good starting point with my drum processor. Thanks

    in advance guys and girls!

     

    Marc-Andre Dumas

  6. Does crossprocess weaking the chems faster? I'm processing 4x5 sheet films in

    rotary tubes and my dev. is becoming red after 4-6 sheet films (crosspro)...

    does that means it's past due? What haoppens if I bleach 30% longer than usual,

    using fresh bleach? could i get a clearer base?

    beacause my film bases are a little bit dense... about 1/2 stop

    Thanks

  7. Hi,

    HDR is nice to use when scanning negs, instead of using mask and stuff... I

    usually use 3 different photo (3 differents exposures) and blend them together

    using HDR generator from photoshop.

     

    My Question is simple:

     

    Is it possible to pull put a picture out of this that is no 72dpi??? Even if I

    start with 800dpi pictures, the result is a 72dpi... Why? and How to print from

    a HDR converted in TIF without resampling?

  8. Often these white light are green nor blue in real and you also have the HPS (high pressure sodium) that are orange and few mercury vapor that are green and some tungsten (orange) and also Metal Halide that seems to be more Blue than purple. Each light of the same type doesn't give the same color due to their life. A old one and a new one will not give the same color if talking about two HPS or two MV or two MH... And the Wattage too.. Few 250W, 400W, 1000W... This is almost impossible to get rid of all the colors... I use Tungsten film when I know I will go in the street and if i'm in the wood I just bring a bright yellow filter, using regular film, to correct the blue of the moon. If I'm in the sunset or sunrise I bring a orange filter and use regular film if I don't want the orange tint of the sun but the light that is nice at these hours. you can bring the kodak filter that correwct the Fluorescent (neon)... I don't remember the number! Good Luck!
  9. I went to Costa Rica Last Month and I brought 35mm slide and 4X5 Sheets of b+w and slides (about 300) and bring back them all, including the agfa stuff I bought there in an Agfa Store (probably the last one in the world) hehe:) And I pass under X-Ray (carry-on bag) 6 times total, and I had 100, 200, 400 iso and few 800 that have been exposed to there regular iso, (no push) and I had NO problem w/ any custom, No Fog ar damage AT ALL! Bring them with you in the plane and don't say anything to the custum guy! Pass them under x-ray!
×
×
  • Create New...