mad1

Favio,

I'll post few exemples soon in this forum, my negs are drying! :)

Why don't you try to use B+W Developer and the bleach as usual and fix with b+w fixer or any combinason of color vs bw chem, that can helps clear this high density base that will make your neg really crappy to print... Use Slides.. I just did that few min. ago. rate your iso 3 stops higher than the film iso, (under-ex 3 stop)when shooting, process in any regular strenght (like HC-110 dil.B) about 24 Celcius for 17 Min and c41 Fix (room temp 6 min)then wash and after Bleach (room temp 6 min)and Wash and you will have a b+w neg out of a color slide film but your neg will be grey (w/ provia 400 for ememple)and you can try it like this to print but the process is Half way in real... You have to process it in the whole Standard C-41 process and the results will be absolutly crazy!!! :)

Is that possible to adjust the times of the regular Kodak chems to dev. in room

temperature?

I think you better use Provia 100... Velvia was a great film but Provia is absolutly perfect!

1St: What's the name in english for this process: Using any slidefilm (E-6)

pushed +3 stop,BW Dev/C41 Fix/wash/C41 Bleachwash/Normal C41 Process... In

french it's called 'pointillisme'...What is it in english?

 

2nd: What will happen If I process regular color film within this process? I did

that 1000 times with slides but I'll try it w/ a regular c41 film under-exposed

by 3 stops in the same batch than e-6 films exposed for this... Thanks!

if you feel crazy, use a micro-fiber fabric same as for the scanner glass and gently rub on the surface where the spot is (never on the silver side) and use your breath to make humidity on the surface... very lightly pressing. It crazy to do this but often it works without having to re-soak the film and leave no spots or scratches. Often these spots are not water, the are wetting agent that still on the film due to a rinse water w/ to much wetting in!

what do u mean by high k

if you feel the need... It could be really interresting ;)

Everyone's telling me that it's over Exposure... Ok My Negs are a little over-ex but On the neg itself I don't see this diference in color even w/ a Peak on a light table. Look at this last exemple... You see the pattern of the edge of the neg like refraction in the image... you have lines in the bottom of the previous exemple and the tree is not over-exposed on this one, it's black and the purple stuff is splashing all around it! :( I do want to believe you guys and I'm really happy that you might help me... Your answers are really usefull, we all need the others sometime :) look at this one... Strange... I got a curse mabye? :) hehe

Like robert said, Why you don't adjust the iso 1/2 stop under the recommanded iso and process like usual...

Thanks for the answer eric... I tried something by the way... I made my own neg holder to be sure it was not a part of the problem... I scanned a 35mm frame out of the same neg, and there was less purple stains on the edges... Here's an exemple... On my frame edge, wich is almost transparent, I don't see this purple (green in negative) stains... Is it my frame holders??

Try something funny if you want to pull out a color neg using b+w dev in the process... push your film 2 or 3 stops when shooting it and dev with a paper dev first and then use c-41 Fix and after wash and use c-41 bleach. and wash. From now your neg is a b+w film w/ dense base. Then process it in reglar c-41 process. Between those steps, keep totally wet or totally dry the film... Look a the astonishing results!!! For the times, make strip tests!

Here's a sample...

Simple! Many way possible... use a different Dev. like d-76 (1 stop more contrast than x-tol) or try to expose your film to 200 iso and over develop X1.4 the original time or follow the instruction on the package. You can also print with a higer filter in the dark room...

I'm scanning cross processed provia 400 35mm contacts and my scanner is giving

me purple edges on every frame... What are those purple splashes all around each

frame edge?

I heard about this film that could be similar to Tech Pan but the red

Sensitivity is not extended like TP. It will not deliver the same results in the

shades nor under tungsten or sunshine... Will it be good and nice when used in

high contrast? Could I use Paper Dev like w/ TP? could it be a good replacement

for the fine grain, full tones results w/ Technidol? Thanks

Document films like Kodak Technical Pan, Agfa Copex Rapid AHU (AKA Gigabit in Germany), Maco Orthopan 25 and several others exists! Tp is already a Dinosaur!!! :( That the worst thin gKodak did!!! they are Stup%?$... :( try to find any other doc film...

Pro labs do what your talking about... They print on glass, fabric and many other material... You'll not have this wood texture like I have whit my completly different process... We are talking about two totally different thing then. Ask A pro printing lab, they will tell you... My technic is a classic one. Easy and funny. Pull a Color Photocopy out of a picture you like and then apply it face down to the wood nor paper you want or any other material that will absorb the ink nor wax of your copy, depending on what kind of photocopy you have... Wax printing are good... Probably you can do this w/ your home ink jet printer... You can 'mirror' your image in photoshop before to still have the same thing than original. use the back of a spoon to press on the paper that is on the wood after having put the lacquer thinner w/ a brush. work zone by zone because it dries fast. by pressing on the paper this way you will transfert the image on the under-surface. Don't put to much lacquer thinner... Try and learn your own way! Have fun.

why is this bad to use the rotary process to do the stab?

My spouse neve make bread ;) lucky you!... I also use my pant pocket since many years and never had condensation problem...

It's probably only a color wax photocopy of the original and then He used Lacquer Thinner to transfert the image to the wood... I did it in the past often... Here I joined you a fast scanned of a fast made one! is it similar to what the guy had? Hope it will help you...

All of this is not True!!! don't push the films for cross process!!! no more than 1 stop if you really feel the need, but not 2 stop...

What brand of film do you use? Have you ever heard about 'pointillisme' (thats the name in french for the process I will tell you) I don't know the name in english!

 

In some lines:

 

Start w/ any Color Slide film. Expose it to +3 Stop i.e. a 100 iso at 800 iso and process it like I'll tell you:

 

B+W Developer Dektol (paper), HC-110, Rodinal... anyone you want.

Wash

c-41 Fix

Wash

c-41 Bleach

Wash

Dry or keep totally wet before doind part two...

PART 2:

Normal C-41 process...

 

E-mail me for the times if you wanna try this...

 

Result... Extreamly grainy, Totally crazy Saturated Colors and Excessive Contrast! Nice thing to have fun!!! Any combinaison of Dev and film and iso are possible

Hi!

Did you see this green-blue color on the edge of the film? (out from the frame, on the border?

Kodak Provia!!!!!!! Sorry! I'm totally crazy! Fuji! Thx! !!! I'm not surprised by using bleach instead of Dev!! LOL!