henryp

<p>My wife's company had success with Ontrack Data Recovery's services. She said they were not cheap but they were, for her company, successful. My personal advice -- if you're going to go that route don't do anything else to the drive. Good luck.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>The FM2 is TTL flash compatible though</p> </blockquote> <p>Maybe I'm confused but as far as I recall the FM2 and FM2n (of which I own three) are manual-only. I used mine for decades with the Vivitar 283. Perfect pairing. </p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>I agree with Robin that sharpness is not an issue. In fact, when Hasselblad was the wedding camera of choice the Zeiss lenses were so razor sharp that many wedding and portrait photographers using diffusion filters (which were available in various grades) to take the edge off. As for color shift, if there is any it will be well within what you can easily adjust for in Photoshop.</p> </blockquote> <p>Over 20+ years I shot several thousands of portraits and a hundred or more weddings. I never used a ND filter for those purposes but used a Sailwind ProSoft #1 routinely.Made the bride's skin flawless and took a decade off the bride's mother. <br> Obviously YMMV</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>From Kodak:<br> <strong>The following Kodak Professional Film emulsion numbers may exhibit image problems, under some circumstances, only in 120 format roll film:</strong><br> <strong>(Emulsion numbers can be found on the film box, the foil wrapper, and printed on the clear edge of processed film near frame number 11.</strong><br> <strong>Kodak T-Max 400: emulsion 0148 roll 004 through emulsion 0152</strong><br /><strong>Kodak T-Max 100: emulsion 0961 through emulsion 0981</strong><br /><strong>Kodak Tri-X: emulsion 0871 though emulsion 0931</strong><br> <strong>Any film with lower or higher emulsion/roll numbers should be free of any problem.</strong><br> <strong>Please direct additional questions to: <a href="mailto:profilm@kodakalaris.com">profilm@kodakalaris.com</a></strong></p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>From Kodak:<br> <strong>The following Kodak Professional Film emulsion numbers may exhibit image problems, under some circumstances, only in 120 format roll film:</strong><br> <strong>(Emulsion numbers can be found on the film box, the foil wrapper, and printed on the clear edge of processed film near frame number 11. </strong><br> <strong>Kodak T-Max 400: emulsion 0148 roll 004 through emulsion 0152</strong><br> <strong>Kodak T-Max 100: emulsion 0961 through emulsion 0981</strong><br /><strong>Kodak Tri-X: emulsion 0871 though emulsion 0931</strong><br> <strong>Any film with lower or higher emulsion/roll numbers should be free of any problem.</strong><br> <strong>Please direct additional questions to: <a href="mailto:profilm@kodakalaris.com">profilm@kodakalaris.com</a></strong></p> <p>Henry Posner<br />B&H Photo-Video</p>

<p>I own three FM2n bodies and two MD-12 motors. There is one camera + motor combo which I keep mated exclusively because otherwise they balk. The other MD-12 will work fine on either of the other bodies.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>Walker: We're received some and while our retail sales associates won't know, they're being released to fill existing backorders.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>Unfortunately my friend who leant me this camera did not have a dark slide so I can't take off the film back without exposing my film</p> </blockquote> <p>You'd only be exposing one frame. But if I recall from using the ETRS, you cannot remove the back without inserting the dark slide.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>The original Nikon 52mm linear pol filter had a 60mm front thread. Nikon sells the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37599-REG/Nikon_518_HN_12_Two_Piece_Lens_Hood.html">Nikon HN-12 Two-Piece Lens Hood (Nikon #518)</a> exclusively for use with this filter.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p><a href="http://www.nikon.com/news/2016/0420_cpx_01.htm">Nikon's Update on digital camera release</a></p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p><a href="http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2014/01/how-to-master-avedon-lighting">How To: Master Avedon Lighting</a><br /><a href="http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2014/01/how-to-master-avedon-lighting">Try Avedon lighting for your next portrait</a><br> Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Mount+Type_Canon+Manual+Focus+%28FD%29&ci=3018&N=4294247086+4291570227+4294954779">Used Canon FD lenses.</a><br />B&H ships worldwide.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>I can focus and shoot without my glasses but I cannot see the camera settings without them, so I have to keep them near at hand anyway.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>From the OP:<br /><em>most of them are tiny just posing generically in their dance recital outfits.</em><br> Based on that I think the talk of<em> "a 1/10,000 second duration at 1/16 power," </em>is unnecessary and could possibly simply intimidate someone who's admitted to being a real novice at flash photography. YMMV If she was <em>"totally overwhelmed"</em> before, does this help improve that sensation?</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong><em><br /></em></p>

<p>A variable neutral density filter is actually two polarizer filters ganged together. The overall effect will vary depending on several factors including the angle you're shooting at relative to the sun, whether you're aimed at metallic or non-metallic subjects etc.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minolta_CLE">Minolta CLE</a><br> Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>would I need to diffuse the umbrella for a softer portrait?</p> </blockquote> <p>No, IMO. One reason I suggested a white umbrella, not silver.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/404233-REG/Photogenic_906910_AKC320_StudioMax_III_320.html">Photogenic AKC320 StudioMax III 320 Watt/Second Monolight</a><br> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/76946-REG/Photogenic_909317_Umbrella_Eclipse_White.html">Photogenic Umbrella - "Eclipse" White, Black Cover - 60" </a><br> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/513014-REG/Manfrotto_420NSB_420NSB_Convertible_Boom_Stand.html">Manfrotto 420NSB Convertible Boom Stand - 12.8' (4m) </a><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546560-REG/Manfrotto_024B_Boom_Assembly_Black.html"><br /></a><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/513014-REG/Manfrotto_420NSB_420NSB_Convertible_Boom_Stand.html">Impact Counter Weight (10 lb) </a></p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>So would two 400 Watt Monolight Strobe Flash Photography Lighting Kit - (2) 200W/s Flash Head with Light Stands & 20"x28" Softbox work? Or would they be too small?</p> </blockquote> <p>IMO you only need one light source and running that into a 60" white umbrella will give you pleasing even illumination. It's not Richard Avedon, but that's not what this shoot calls for anyway. One monolight, one stand (preferably with a boom & counterweight), one umbrella. YMMV</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>the big issue with Vivitar 285's or other small battery powered units is recycling time</p> </blockquote> <p>I'd use a <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Kit+Components_Booms&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=2251&N=3988592057+4294952761+3967878150">monolight</a>. 400ws should be plenty -- more than enough. </p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>If you removed the batteries before you began this folly, you're probably looking at a capacitor. As Mark said -- maintenance manual is online.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>Under the circumstances, and for the sake of simplicity I suggest a monolight into one 60" white umbrella on a boom directly above the camera. Keep the dancer at least an arm's length from the background. There will be some shadow of the dancer on the background but with an umbrella it will be soft and with this setup it will fall directly behind the dancer so the dancer's own body will at least partially obscure it.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>...as B&H will not ship liquids.</p> </blockquote> <p>OTOH there are dozens of <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Powder%2fLiquid_Powder&ci=576&N=4288586387+4254931960+3966147120">powder film developer options</a> all of which can be shipped. </p> <blockquote> <p>As noted in a previous discussion, B&H has a few films in 135-36 rolls for less than $5 per roll.</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=2545&setNs=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4093113317+4130468176+4019732826+4130468181&srtclk=sort">B&W 35mm film options</a> start at <$3.00/roll.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<blockquote> <p>I am terrible with indoor shooting of people.<br />my Son is getting married in a few months and while a "professional" has been hired, I will also be shooting.<br />being that my flash photography skills blow,</p> </blockquote> <p>Your son is getting married. Congratulations.<br />You're terrible photographing people indoors.<br />Your flash photography skills, "blow."<br />Despite all that, you will also be shooting.<br /> But, <em>a "professional" has been hired.</em> I wonder why the word <em>professional</em> is in quotes. Either you hired a pro or you're not confident in the photographer's professionalism. <br /> <strong>Here's my personal advice.</strong> Let me preface this by saying I have photographed plenty of weddings professionally and I'm familiar with the gadgets you linked to. It's your kid's wedding. You hired a pro. Leave your camera at home. Applaud your kid. Hug your new daughter-in-law. Dance with your wife, more than once. Embarrass your daughters with the groomsmen (but not too much). Raise your glass when the best man toasts. Have one (but ONLY ONE) drink too many and not too early in the evening. Brag about the lucky couple to your neighbors. If you contributed $$ to the festivities DO NOT MENTION IT TO ANYONE AT ALL.<br /> It's your kid's wedding. Enjoy it. If you spend the evening with a camera pressed to your face while you worry about missing this shot or that while you get in the pro's way, the next day all you'll have are memories of stress, but not of the joyous celebration. YMMV<br /> BTW - congrats.<br /> - Henry</p>

<p>For simplicity's sake I looked at 135-36 ISO 400 traditional b&w films. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Format_120&ci=2545&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4093113317+4019732826+4130468181+4130468157">Sorted by price</a>. Tri-X, T-Max and HP-5+ are all under $5.00/roll.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p> <p> </p>