jon_noble

wow. i'm amazed by my memory. I've just been racking my brain trying to figure out how the homemade digital leica was coming on since the last time i was here over 2 years ago. For some reason i remembered huw's name.

I see the camera was too much of an undertaking. Nevermind.

"If it was just me using the printer i would get the 2 main papers i use"

should read

"If it was just me using the printer i would get the 2 main papers i use profiled"

Hi again Ant. I'm going to have to admit defeat. If it was just me using the printer i would get the 2 main papers i use. Yes, both 3rd party (Mipo Satin and Silk) but are among the best i have seen, superior to Epson (their main sellers as they do have some very nice pro stuff) and at least on par with Ilford.

However, this printer is used by a Uni Photographical society and the logistics in finding a few papers that everyone uses, getting them profiled, then teaching members how to use the created profiles (not forgetting trying to get them to understand Colour Management) would quite frankly been a right royal pain in the arse as it'd be just me doing it (yep, im the Pres and the eager new comittee have lost their enthusiasm and bundles of energy).

The main reason for using the 3rd party inks is becuase we do not have much money to just spend it on inks for 75members.

If only this damn R1800 was as easy to setup as my CIS C66. Well, i had a dream. Unfortunatley it was flawed.

Well, the monitor is not calibrated. But i do not edit my images on that computer. It's a seperate workstation. With original inks it printed fine with that setup.

According to the replies from previous users of the inks were that they did not need to do any profiling.

Profiling has been in the back of my mind since i got the CIS but prices are not cheap as the printer is meant for more than one person, meaning they will all have their own preferencial paper.

Hi

I'm in a spot of bother. A while back i bought a CIS system from Echostore.com

(that was an unpleasant experience) for an Epson R1800. I used OCP inks which i

acquired from where i work (Cartridgeworld).

Now that installed all well and no blockages. However, prints always came out

too blue/cyan. I tried to counter this by using sliders but always made the

shadows go a bit purple and basically not right.

So, i thought it was the inks, bad batch or not from OCP. So i bought from a

reputable ebuyer and asked previous buyers (~10) of the ink on what there

experience with the inks were like. They came back very pleased with the inks.

Needless to say i bought them.

Flushed the old ink out,put the new stuff in, head cleans and nozzle checks.

Ahhh! Exactly the bloody same!

Sure, i can put up with a slight mismatch in colour but i am yet to get a decent

print out of it using CIS. I have had no problems with CIS for my C66 and that

is providing better colours and greyscale ( using cheapy inks) than my expensive

R1800 setup.

What is causing this problem. Could it be the CIS system is allowing too much

cyan through, which i find highly unlikely. I have wasted a lot of money and

have been wanting to do high volume printing for ages.

Cheers in advance for any help.

The only rolls i've shot were in Snowdonia when it was snowing. I do find the colours and effect interesting. Just the proessing time was off putting.

The latest news/rumours made me buy 5rolls last week.

Here is a link to shots from Snowdonia, all but 1 are K200

http://galleryjon.fotopic.net/c974302.html

Hi,

I'm kind of the appointed Photographer for Exeter University Climbing Club.

My last years website has a fair bit on it http://jon8037.fotopic.net/

but unfortunatley i haven't been able to do much climbing this year http://climbingclub0607.fotopic.net/

They are all UK locations and shot using a wide variety of cameras

I'm sorry but when i read the entire post i couldn't help myself but laugh.

If you intend on spending money on a "high caliber camera" i feel you should have at least progressed from something cheaper (not neccesarily something of lesser quality) instead of reading marketing guff and believing it just because you wan't something to make you good quick.

PS, which articles did you read? They weren't from a certain UK magazine that likes to give free "booklets" written by certain camera manufacturers?

Cheers guys

I had seen before on retouchpro.com forum (i think) that a few people had had a bad time with echostore but they were usually regarding the crapness of their inks. That's why i didn't buy them.

The ciss is, from what i can tell, identical from what is sold throughout ebay. I have no problem with it, with an exception to one of the seals on the magenta but it only leaks slightly when out of he printer. Plus i didn't want to buy inkrepublic overpriced kits (i've made that mistake 1 too many times.)

With the new chip its working fine and so far am happy with it. Just miffed by echostore's terrible customer support.

Hi everyone,

Thought i'd post of my experience with this lousy company.

I bought from echostore their r1800 CIS system for a reasonable price. I didn't

bother their inks as i didn't want to chance it and got some decent stuff from

OCP in Germany through work.

It arrived in just over a week, which is ok. However when i installed the system

the cyan chip continuously came uip with errors saying it was "buggered."

I contacted them and a few days later they told me they'd send a replacement

chip. 2weeks passed so i sent an e-mail, then 2 e-mails. On my 3rd e-mail

explaining how pissed off i was they told me to wait 2 more days for it to

arrive. If it didn't they'd sort me out with another one.

2days passed and still nothing. I've tried to get hold of them but to no avail.

Bastards. Instead i have had to buy a chip from 9to6.co.uk and that arrived in

3days.

So, the point being, stay away from these guys unless you really need their ciss.

If you have had any problems with this company i'd like to hear as "echostore"

came up with nothing in the p.net search.

Cheers

On my Paxina it has a red window. Ive used Delta3200 in bright sunlight with it and didn'tget any fogging.

Don't worry about it.

Nevermind Dave. I took a chance and it arrived today very well packaged. Not bad since i ordered it on saturday evening.

436GBP including postage. The cheapest place in the UK i found. No idea if they have any left.

I have always found delta3200 to have high base fog.

At first i thought i wasn't fising it long enough but extra fixing time made no difference.

What did you develop it in?

David

Hi, Did you buy from kpprof? I really need a decent 35mm scanner but i am a bit wary to buy from this company. Haven't heard of them and thir site is a bit too simplistic. How were they?

Malcolm. I was basing my findings on Warehouse express. I've had good service from them before but every time i asked them they told me nikon uk are waiting for stock to arrive therefore leading me to assume that nobody else has one.

Anyways its 30quid cheaper from them

Cheers for that David. Many thanks

I don't know how it is elsewhere in the world but, here in the UK, i have not

been able to find any place where the coolscan v ed (LS50) is in stock for

almost 2 months.

Anybody got any ideas why nikon uk are doing nothing?

Anybody know where i can buy a v ed?

Well, the yashica-guys circuit board didn't match my camera for some reason. anyways, found the correct point and the wire is fine.

I have found some very good resources, i.e schematics and a whole electro service manual

http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/Y35G for the schematics and macros

I want the auto exposure and as i'm supposed to be doing a masters in electronic engineering i should find fixing this easy. hell if i'm really bored i may even replace the whole electronics with some pic implementation (must stress the "really bored"), however, i have thought of modifying the exposure by some clever resistor changes to bring the camera to a decent sensitivity range (up to iso 2000)

I cannot remeber where i found the entire service manual so if you want it ask me as i can't post it here (too big)

Ivan

Are you sure you aren't allowed to use tripods on Carls bridge?

When i was there loads of people using them, day and night. I saw several instances where Japanese (could be from any other asian country) tourists were using these very tall, but thin tripods.

Not once did i see people getting stopped by the non-existent police. It made me wish i brought my tripod when i was there.

Thats exactly what i thought Charles as it's supposed to be the negative terminal of the PCB to the battery.

I had found that forum but i found searching through it a real hassle and got discouraged by not finding anything in the several i saw.

I'll replace the wire and see how that goes.

Charles

I found the point you are referring to thanks tot he Yashica Guy website. There is says i should have a reading of 0ohms (ermm.surely he can't mean this or does he mean an open circuit). Well, i measured mine to be 871 Ohms.

Pete, i had thought about this but i bought the electro with the intent of replacing my FED1g as that camera is an absolute bitch to use in low light.

You'd have to explain Charles what the check pad is.

The light comes on when i press the battery test button.

By a continuity test do you mean find the resistance between the battery contact and another point?

Hi

I have bought a Yashica Electro (pre g-series) and i'm not sure i have the

dreaded "pad of death."

From what i have read it causes the shutter speeds to be very binary i.e bulb or

1/500. So far, this is what my camera is doing. However, it does not make a

clunk when i cock the shutter. Just makes a normal click.

Theres a new battery in there and i've taken the top plate and no connections

appeared to be loose/corroded through.

Does this sound like the "pad of death" or have i missed something obvious?