ellis_vener_photography

I have used the 105mm f/4 AI-S Nikkor very successfully on a 1Ds Mk III, 1D X and 5DS. Use live view to focus with.

I read the bosworth biography a few years ago as well; I found it pretty shallow compared to the Lubow book, and very tawdry. Lots of allegations she could not back up and it did not go into her place in the magazine and photography worlds, something Lubow does.

What do you think about it? Has it made you think about photography -yours, hers, or anyone's - differently?

Each individual image file size depends on what you are taking photos of: the more detail (detail is difference and vice- versa) the larger the file. On top of that the capacity indicator on all cameras that I have ever used have always been extremely conservative in calculating the number of photos that the media can hold.

Take your point and shoot or replace it with the Nikon Coolpix P900. Why the P900? The zoom range. I haven't gone on safari but my understanding is that the larger the zoom range the more photographic opportunities will present themselves and at the long end the P900's lens is the equivalent if a 2000mm lens on a full frame camera, and the photos I've seen from friends who have a P900 the image quality is impressive. http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/compact-digital-cameras/coolpix-p900.html#tab-ProductDetail- ProductTabs-Overview

Get your own domain and use your name in some form in the url.

"In matters of taste there is no dispute" but sometimes it helps to ask questions about how to look at an artist's work. Not of the artist though! Because mostly any explanation we are forced to give is just a way saying in a worse way what we want the work to express - which cuts three ways: either we think we failled, or that you are a dunce for not getting it, or both. Instead, ask the people working at the gallery or musum - that's what they are there for. And for the record nothing on the link you posted is post modern. It is post-something but not post-modern. And yes a lot of contemporary work is pure crap, but that has been true of every generation of artistic endeavor. Fnally most of what gets posted here and in other forums simply isn't very good or very honest. Most of it is well crafted but is a pastiche of very safe, non-challenging tropes and forms. But that is also true of most of the arts

I looked up Mark Power as his name rang a bell. According to he Wikipedia article about him, he use a large format camera. I am pretty sure that he uses 4x5 inch film. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Power

When I briefly lived in Tampa i met with Brooks at least once. I am very sorry to hear of his death. Another former Photo.net member Mike Katlsson passed away suddenly last week as well.

Shooting Fee: $2,000-2,500 per d Expenses Assistant: (going rate for the D.C. Area) Hair/make up artist (going rate but let client know this is optional) Image processing fee, including keywording, archiving, light or minimal retouching, preview/proof gallery preparation, and delivery. Misc. expenses

Don't reply. It is her drama. Do you want to part of it? If she has paid you in full, deliver the photos processed to your satisfaction. If you have not been paid in full, nothing gets delivered untill you are paid. Don't be afraid of saying no. She is trying to bully you.

An F2, if it is in really good condition (dont go for one that is in mint condition) should be a camera that will last virtually forever. Mine dates from 1972 and i bought used in 1982 , with the motor drive, from a professional who was moving on to the F3hp. I shot with it, probably 10,000 rolls till I bought an F4 when it became my backup and remote body. I still wind and fire it occassionally just for the feel and sound. But shoot film? No. One last tip: get the plain non-metering prism or a Sports Finder. Even better tip: keep saving up and get a better camera for "street shooting" a Leica M3 or M4 variant with either a 35mm or 50mm f/2 Summicron.

I'd get a simple camera stand (brands to look for: Arkay, Foba, Cambo) and not try to set up a ceiling mounted boom arm.

Apple iPhone 6S

If it is a good one there should be no pre-flash in manual mode.

Forget metering TTL controlled flash, you'll meter the pre-flash and not the flash.

"Why does it do that? I actually prefer to preview my RAW files "flat"." If that is the case turn off auto-adjust. If you are shooting with recent Nikons Adobe has built in a "flat" camera profile in the Camera Calbration pane.

I use a boom arm. I can quickly change the angle of reflection by tilting it, rotating the arm, and change height by either raising or lowering the stand height (I mount the boom arm on a half height C-Stand) or extending the boom.

You should just need to set the SB-600 Speedlights to FP mode. Whether that will work with your current Phottix trigger system and Lumopro flashes I can't say. If your Picketwizards are members of The ControlTL series those work for HSS /FP work as well. But unless the action is happening relatively close to the flashes, the fundamental question is whether FP/HSS do anything for you beyond some weak fill.

My first thought is that your horizon line is too high in the composition. Does all that lawn make a "narrative" contribution to the finished photograph? If not try cropping the photo to the point where it is just barely there. Secondly by shooting with the long edge of the frame parallel to the ground you are throwing away a lot of resolution, but that isn't related to tje problem you asked about.

Like Bob said. No, at least not at infinity. At 1:2 or closer, maybe. But it will just cover 5x7 at infinity focus.It is a terrific lens

Someone suggested you say "you are akready booked." If you are: GREAT! But never lie to a client. Instead do as that person also suggested ang raise your prices by a factor of five or better, by ten. In other words if you are charging $2,500 for an event, ask for $12,500 or $25,000. Who knows? They might even agree to pay it.

90 images out of a total of how many? I'd do a visual search with the file names visible and then use either a star or color tag fir the mes the client has selected abdcthen filter for that star or color rating so you have only those selected. Select all of those, process each ad needed in ACR, and then output the lot from ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) at the size (in pixels), resolution (360ppi is a safe bet), compression level, and in "safe" (for non-Photoshop users) color space.

"How does one accurately envision a 1:3?" I stand in a spot and turn my head. Experience is a great teacher.

A true bare bulb flash is a very hard edged, crisp light source but a great wY to illuminate an entire room.