ellis_vener_photography

It looks like some dort of process lens.

Marc, To answer your question: the purpose -as I see it- of the various profiles in Lightroom in ACR is to create the general color palette for a photo. I have used the Adobe profiles, profiles from Huelight, and custom profiles I have made for the cameras I have used over the years. For the most part those custom profiles were made using an X-Rite 24 patch color checker and both Adobe's DNG Profile Editing software and X-Rite's own ColorChecker Passport software. This fall I began using the X-Rite ColorChecker SG Digital target (144 patches) and BasICColor 5 profiling software. This combination is far and away the best balance between Accurate and Pleasing Color renditions. Most acutely for my purposes I am not getting accurate skin tones especially with people who are not Northern Europeans - particularly with Asians, and Negroes. The difference is that the profile is removing an excess of reddish undertones. This is true with both my Canon and the recent Nikon cameras I've been reviewing.

Ensure that your camera is truely square to your reference level target before you decide which if either level is inaccurate.

I have the same issue: identifying some G.I.s who my Dad (now deceased) photographed on Guaracanal in 1944-45.

Can you post a picture of that ballhead? You could use a 3/8"-16 to 1/4"-20 thread reducer insert.

With the Einstein and DigiBee 800 I use the Paul Buff umbrella reflector with the Softlighter II . What also works is the old Balcar Umbrella reflector/ Angle Reduction Disk but you'll need to drill a hole in in it for the Umbrella Shaft. The Balcar Disk is a silver 7-inch diameter flat aluminum disk that works as either a flat reflector so you get a true hemisphere of light or can be used with a grid spot reflector and grids to significantly reduce the size of the spot. It works great with any 7- inch diameter grid spot system for all flashes, but really gets interesting when used with the deep and matte black Plume, ltd. Chimney reflector.

Except for the black front cover the Softlighter II has those options. Honestly, since I've never felt the need to, I have never used mine without the black back cover. I have also never used the silver or the gold inserts that come with it either. It is one of my favorite lightmodifiers for portraits.

Ooh good question. I'd go for 50-60% of the original shooting fee from each of the additional clients.

Input FPI or PPI DOES NOT MATTER. What does matter is the ppi you output them at. Epson printers have a native printing resolution of 360dpi but you can get pretty good quality down to 180dpi. Most labs, As well as Canon and HP printers pigment and inkjet printers have a native printing resolution of 300dpi and in my experience with Canon printers input resolution can go as low as 225 dpi. And if you are handy with Photoshop you can interpolate the data to make a larger (in pixel dimensions) image before you print, figure 4x if the scan is of decent quality. On a more serious note, I am sorry you have had to go through what sounds like a traumatic break with someone who is or once was in your extended family circle.

If the visual aspects of thephoto have to be explained for the aesthetics of it to be appreciated, the explanation better b damn good and free of academic jargon and cant. On the other hand it sometimes helps to know the historical context of the person, place, thing depicted and the era in which was made. Does knowing that Edward Weston's still lifes of peppers were shot on 8x10 and that they had very long exposure times make them more beautiful? Or that Churchill is scowling in Karsh's portrait of him is because Karsh had just snatched a cigar out of his hand? Does knowing who Churchill was and when he lived make a difference?

"Lastly, you can't control what other's see! You can't control whether they have calibrated their displays like yours, if they are using color managed app's to view the data etc." Make it look good on your calibrated and profiled display and don't worry about what you can't control. If your photos are compelling people will notice them. If they are not compelling no amount of fastidious attention to technical precision can help you

Also look at the Horseman backs.

Having used both the Sinar and Horseman roll film holders with various Sinar, Arca-Swiss, and Canham 4x5 cameras, if you have the choice go with the Sinar roll film backs. The Linhof rollfilm backs are also better than the Calumet design, but I never could find a used one that was affordable.. the film path in the Sinar and Linhof backs is straight and holds the film flatter, and they have the advantage of being able to slide under the groundglass as well as optionally using the Graflock system to hold them in place.

If you are in the USA: the Paul C. Buff, Inc. Vagabond Extreme Lithium. I am writing from experience.

Had the package been opened by customs?

It cannot be done as physically there are no shutter curtains in the camera body for you to sync to! The lenses have leaf shutters and the sync signal happens when tje shutter iris reaches the fully open position. But with a longish exposure there is a way to delay the timing of the sync pulse to emulate rear curtain sync. . You will need a Pocketwizard MultiMAX or MultiMAX V2. These radio triggers have a sync timing option that is easily user programmable, no computer needed. If the shutterspeed is long enogh you can delay the sync to even fire somewhere in the middle of the exposure. You will have to experiment to find the delay setting you desire for different shutterspeeds.

It depend on what you withboth. Use the monolight to create the overalllight and the Speedlite as a key light spot, as a fill light or as an accent light and yes it will have an effect.

Two seperate lights will more than double...the versatility of your lighting kit. If you really need the ability to put 1000w-s or more into one umbrella and want ro work with battery powered lights and also have the capability to have TTL and HSS instead of the INDRA system (which I like a lot) there is the Godox AD600B systems, sold in the USA as the Adorama Flashpoint XPLOR 600 TTL HSS. Adorama just started selling a bi-tube version of the Flash Extension Head accessory that connects to two XPLOR 600 / AD600B monolight bodies. I also really like both the XPLOR 600 and the INDRA 500 systems.

In fact the APS-C D500 does a great job in low light and at high ISOs. I just made some 22x33 prints from D500 raw files shot at ISO 4000, 5000, 6400, and 12,800. When processing the raw files in Lightroom CC2015.7 I used no noise reduction and used moderately high capture sharpening. Only at ISO 12,800 did the noise in the shadows become obvious and the dynamic range reduced noticably (lack of detail in very dark tones).

In the Jewish spirit of things then: go the finder in your OS (Winows or Mac) find the folder and appmy a different sort priority ordering. date, date added, date changed, size, file type, etc.

Christian way? What the heck does that even mean?

Switch to the Adorama Flashpoint R2 system.

Maybe it's the rangefinder m chanism in your camera that needs adjustment?

Chimera SuperPRO. Not cheap but worth it.

Do you know if your Dad was a PPA member?