ellis_vener_photography

To make something of what we see? The question behind your question is "why do humans have an urge to create or invent anything?" Is it an outgrowth or manifestation of a survival instinct?

Which color space are you exporting the 16-bit TIFFs in?

I too think Tom and Greg are right, but so make sure that the serial number on the film insert matches the serial number on the back's outer shell

What a great photograph and such a fine explanation of how it came to made, complementing the image by not trying to explain the photograph itself or why it is a great, evocative image.

test results depend on tools, methodology,and interpretation of the results. In my real world experience as a working photographer, imaging-resource.com is the gold standard for cameras and shares that position with lensrental.com for lens evaluation. Rishi Sanyal at dpreview is also very reliable.

I suspect the lab used expired chemistry. Ask to see their control strip logs.

Would you like to buy one?

With a spanner its pretty easy to remove the front retaining ring and do the engraving away from the lens itself. I dont think Kodak did that bit of engraving as it doesn't match the other engraving.

My advice is: get a tall stand (9ft. Max height at the minimum), an AC (Mains) powered monolight, and use a small to medium softbox or umbrella on the monolight. As much as I like using TTL controlled flashes (both small battery powered ones designed for hotshoe use and the newer monolights) this is not the situation that tjey will be most useful in as you want consistent exposure from one frane to the bext and you want AC/mains power because you want very fast recycling time. A radio trigger system will also be useful to eliminate as many cables as you can. If Mains/AC power isnt available a high capacity battery with a built-in inverter like the Paul C. Buff, inc Vagabond Extreme Lithium works great as an alternative power source. If you are not in the USA you will need a batteryand inverter compatible with your local mains voltage. If you do not want to use flash look at a high quality LED lighting source designed for photography.

Yes that is what is typical. But who says that you must always do tjings in the typical way? I suggest you test it both ways and see how different combinations of scrims and internal baffle or lack thereof create different qualities of light.

Perhaps they are the initials of the person or organization that owned it previously?

Figure out who has both community respect and social clout in your hamlet and start scheduling gratis sessions for them or for he social organizations they have membership in and actively support. Join PPA and start attending their classes on matketing. Your goal needs to be to create a higher profile for yourself and your business. Stop chasing after the bottom feeders. You say your husband is unemployed. I am sorry to hear that. With wgatever free time he has, what is he doing to help you in your business?

Because your subject is so small, the good news is that you dont need a large softbox you might even be able to get by without a diffuser at all but a little diffusion might not hurt,just get your lights very close to the subject. Think of using your lights the way a surgeon would use scalpels, sponges, snd clamps - with great sensitivity and care. The next bit of good news is that because you are shooting on 4x5 film if your light sources are not bright enough there's a trick you can use: fire the flashes multiple times to build up your exposure. However you will have to deal with reciprocity failure. A good rule of thumb is to add an extra pop for every four pops your meter or your calculations say you need for the aperture you want to use. You can either work in rhe dark, set your shutter-speed to T or B and trigger your flashes manually or set the shutterspeed to something more reasonable like 1/250, use the shutter's sync connection and trip the shutter multiple times. In either case you'll need a very sturdy tripodand head.

"Better"? Different is a more accurate description (sorry brand warriors). All of the leading raw processors and the camera specific proprietary ones (Canon, Nikon, Sony, et. al.) can do a great job once you learn how to ue them.

Don't know about the zoom lenses - a fast zoom (f/2.8)will always be larger and heavier than a smaller max. aperture one - but the Sony A7R II AND A7S II get high marks.

Looks like you are applying a profile twice.

This is a question for an attorney not a bunch if random people on the internet but... The last time i saw this question decided legally was rhe gas pipeline inspector who made the photo of the firefighter carrying the body of a child out of the terrorist bombing of the Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City, and the photo was on the cover of Newsweek. The courts ruled the photos (copyright and all) belonged to the employer.

You do not want people to know who made those photos?

The United States did not enter WW I until 1917. I know of no restrictions in Traveling from Getmany to the USA and back before then.

What you want is also known as a strip ND. They were first developed for the filming of Dr. Zhivago so the area of the sky near the horizon was not brighter than the rest of the sky (a result of air pollution). Unless you are looking to make the foreground very dark your idea won't work.

It's a good deal. If you don't already have a heavy duty tripod and head, and a meter that reads in both incident and spot modes, I advise you to round those up too. Final suggestion: find a copy of "The Sinar Manual" book so you will discover how to use a Sinar's features to their full advantage.

Phottix Indra 500TTL.

Both are fine programs but Capture One is only a raw processing program. "I really feel that Capture one program have more options and tools to edit pics and the color seems to be much better than Lightroom." You're wrong about that but I suspect it's because you don't really know Lightroom. It's raw development toolset is every bit as powerful as C1 Pro, and if you consider its other features far more powerful. However the two programs use different processing algorithms so if you like the look of C1 processed images my advice is to use C1 to process with and Lightroom to organize the finished TIFFs and JPEGS.

I still fine a high quality tripod and head to be essential for many of the kind of photos I enjoy making. If nothing else it frees up my body from always being a human camera support

ThinkTANK Photo ShapeShifter , don't let the internal pockets fool you, it will easily hold the gear you describe. The question is, no matter which backpack you decide to get one thing is certain: you will quickly decide whether that you do not enjoy humping that much weight around.