joseph_dickerson

As with the Sony a6xxx cameras the EOS M system will take FD lenses without the need for an adapter with glass. I use FD lenses on my M system cameras with a Fotodiox adapter. The same is not true of using FD lenses on EOS DSLR cameras however. But either the M5/6 etc., or Sony NEX cameras would work for you. JD

Focusing, and I assume, MFA adjustments are made wide open unless you're focusing in live view. I'd suspect that what you are seeing would then by default be focus shift. I'd contact Canon and see if focus shift is a known issue with this lens. JD

Pretty much the way I was leaning. I did find one comparison of the various 35mm variants and his feeling was that the f/2.8 was a bit better optically. Now, just to find a nice one. Thanks for taking the time to share your insights. JD

Looking into an FD 35mm to use on the EOS M-5, my question is...which one? F/2, f/2.8, SSC, nFD, there are a bunch of iterations out there. I'd use it mostly for landscapes and architecture. With all you FD shooters hangin' out here I'm sure someone has done some comparing. Thanks in advance, JD

Check out Grey Learning... I have a problem with the Kelby books as they tend to be "recipe" books and don't really get at the underlying principles I have taught digital photography on a college lever and used the Kelby books because they had been adopted by the previous instructor. As Rafa says Katrin's books, or anything, print or internet, by Tim Grey would be a great place to start. JD

I need help! College is stressful!...You got that right Robyn! But, a lot of people, and I suspect you're among them, can handle it. So...deep breaths...then run, don't walk to the counselor's office and tell them what you want to do. If that doesn't help, and it might not depending on just how savvy your counselors are, talk to some professionals in your area. Not the weekend warriors shooting little league and weddings, but the full-timers either in their own studio or the local press guys. Look at starting at a community college, many have excellent photo programs, I just retired after 25+ years teaching at a local Community College. Ours is a very strong program with many of our graduates going on to four year programs, or, as I did, going directly into the field as an apprentice. Or, if you have the grades and finances, look at schools like RIT, or the Art Center in LA. Another option if your on the east coast is Hallmark Institute in Turner Falls, Ma. I have had a nearly 50 year career in photography and photographic education with only a community college education. So it's doable. I'm not rich, but I've sure had a rich and rewarding career, especially the educational part. Someone once said," that to teach, is to learn twice." Very true, and the part I loved the most. What would I do differently? I'd take more business classes as has been suggested above. You'll have plenty of opportunity to learn the photography stuff. Workshops, professional organizations such as PPA (Professional Photographers of America), WPI (Wedding Photographers International), SMP (Society of Media Photographers), NAPA (North American Nature Photographers) all offer student memberships and have great workshop and training programs. I don't think that a business degree is really all that useful, but some business background definitely is. If I can be more help feel free to PM me. JD

Hi all, Haven't been here in a while...like the new look but did we loose the classifieds? JD

<p>Another positive vote for the Rokinon/Bower/Samyang 14mm f/2.8. I bought a used Bower branded lens and am very pleased.<br> Enough so that I bought a Rokinon 12mm f/2 for my EOS M5.<br> Just be sure you have a return/exchange privilege when you buy. Both of mine were fine right out of the box, but that apparently isn't always the case.<br> JD</p>

<p>One last thought...look into the Horseman VH/VHR system. Interchangeable lenses, the option of rangefinder focusing (with the VHR) plus view camera movements. Not too heavy and it folds for transport.<br> It may not be your cup of tea, but it's a very capable picture making tool.<br> JD</p>

<p>I believe the Toyo holders will work fine, but you'll have to remove the ground glass panel first. Easily done with the 45A series cameras. Note that a lot of us prefer not to do that in the field however.<br> As Ellis suggests, check out the Sinar Vario II back. It'll do everything from 645 to 6x12cm on 120 film. A bit more complicated to load, and pricier than some others, but still not rocket science.<br> JD</p>

<p>To correct a couple of the statements made above...<br> First, there were several different versions of the Calumet Wood Field made, over time, by several different makers. Probably the best of the lot was actually a Wista Camera with the Calumet brand on it. Try to find out more about the camera, and if possible post a link so that someone can actually ID the version for you.<br> Secondly, while a lot of Caltar lenses were made by Rodenstock they were also supplied, again over time, by Schneider, Topcon and others. The Rodenstock and Schneider lenses were supplied in Copal shutters and are by far the best of the lot.<br> Lastly, most if not all of the Calumet Wood field cameras used a Linhof lens board not a 4x4 board as was normal on the Calumet Monorails cameras. The last monorails from Calumet were actually Cambos so they used a Cambo board obviously.<br> As far as price is concerned, if the camera and lens are both in excellent condition then the price is good but not great. Make sure you have some time after the camera arrives to check it out and either return it or re-negotiate the price if repairs are needed.<br> Don't forget there is a substantial list of "bits and bobs" that you'll need to add to complete your kit.<br> JD</p>

<p>Maybe Lens Cote (sp?) makes a cover for your lens?<br> JD</p>

<p>Perhaps you used a Deet based insect repellent...it will do a real job on plastics.<br> JD</p>

<p>Something that is rarely pointed out when comparing the Mamiya TLRs with the Rollei cameras is the advantage of <em><strong>not</strong></em> having to remove a Mamiya from the tripod to load it. Even with a Rolliefix it's a hassle to load the Rolleis...only an issue if you are a tripod shooter of course, but worth considering.<br> As previously mentioned, the interchangeable lenses are really useful, and the latest ones (black shutter, blue dot) are very good optically.<br> Also, much has been written about the Rollei's curved film path vs. Mamiya's straight through film path and its affect on sharpness. I'll leave that to the experts, but perhaps it is something to look into.<br> JD</p>

<p>Not at all! The mirror isn't in the optical path when the exposure is being made.<br> The mirrors in SLRs are front surface mirrors and are easily damaged, as you have discovered.<br> JD</p>

<p>As Jeff says or find an "as-is" body and use the lens mount.<br> Another option is S.K. Grimes, they may have lens mounts or can machine one.<br> Should be a cool camera when you get it assembled, post some images for us to see.<br> Good luck with it.<br> JD</p>

<p>As far as I know Seiko shutter sizes are equivalent to Copal/Compur. I never had a problem mounting any Seiko shuttered lens on a Linhof or Sinar board, and I have had several over the years.<br /> JD</p>

<p>Don't overlook the great lenses made by Horseman (Topcon) for the VH/VHR line of cameras. They're often available at bargain prices.<br> JD</p>

<p>It would be helpful if you included more information re: adapting 645 lens to what? <br> JD</p>

<p>There was/is an RB-67 75mm shift lens but it only works on the Pro SD model. And I suppose the RZ.<br> JD</p>

<p>Addendum...Richard is correct, the figures from the Bob Shell book are for black shutters, not chrome.<br> As David points out, the generic hoods are really a better option, but find vented hoods, non-vented <em><strong>may</strong></em> interfere with the viewing lens.<br> JD</p>

<p>Hi, </p> <p>According to Bob Shell's Mamiya book:<br> 55mm...48mm slip-on (filter size 46mm)<br> 65mm...50mm slip-on (49mm filter size)<br> 80mm f/2.8S...48mm slip-on (46mm filter size)<br> 105mm DS 48mm slip-on (46mm filter size)<br> 135mm...48mm slip-on (46mm filter size)<br> 180mm...48mm slip-on (46mm filter size)<br> 180mm Super...50mm slip-on (49mm filter size)<br> 250mm...50mm slip-on (49mm filter size)<br> I just use inexpensive Chinese vented hoods, same as filter size, they look like the old Leica rangefinder hoods and work just fine. As you can see you'll only need a couple. You'll also find that collectors, as opposed to photographers, have driven the price of original Mamiya hoods up to ridiculous levels. At least they have on this side of the pond.<br> JD</p>

<p>You're very welcome...<br> It sounds like you know your sheets from your halyards so I suspect you'll do fine. Even if you only hope to make this a hobby or avocation the marketing aspect will really help.<br> If you have even a modicum of writing skills you can easily break into writing for the boating press with dozens of potential markets. Go to any decent book store and count the sailing/motor boating magazines available. If your photography is excellent to outstanding and your writing doesn't totally suck you're publishable. Or if your writing is excellent to outstanding and your photography doesn't totally suck your still publishable.<br> Start small, even providing articles for the yacht club for free just to get published and build a portfolio. The old saying is as true today as it ever was," It's easy get published once you get published." As you sell images to the boat owner's get property releases so you can also use the shots in articles and you're on your way.<br> JD</p>

<p>Wow...reminds me of the VPS backing paper that would "flash" static streaks as you rolled the film on to developing reels. It looked like your images were lightning struck. I had to pay to have a whole wedding retouched and then returned a case, a case not a brick, of the stuff.<br> Just as bad was the Kodachrome 64 that we sarcastically renamed "magenta chrome" when it was first introduced.<br> Any wonder why so many professionals went to Fuji?<br> Thanks for the heads-up, I'll let my students know. Fortunately I'm teaching large format this semester.<br> JD</p>

<p>Gil makes a good suggestion but I'd take it a step further and rent the Tamron and do a direct comparison in your shooting circumstances.<br> While Photozone, and/or DXO are probably accurate on the testing of lenses as far as I know they don't use them over an extended period where the (assumably) better build quality of Canon L glass might pay dividends.<br> JD</p>