joseph_dickerson

<p>In all probability it won't as your maximum aperture will be f/8 (at 300mm) to small for a T2i to auto focus.<br> I suppose you could tape some of the contacts but the focus will still be hit and miss.<br> JD</p>

<p>The Takumar 75mm Aspherical f/2.8 is a much sharper lens than any of the other 75s in the line.<br> Worth the extra bucks by a long shot.<br> JD</p>

<p>I just re-read your original post, I had missed the classic music concert part and unless you limit yourself to only the 1812 Overture I wouldn't recommend the Pentax 67 for concerts. For concert work the Mamiya 7 rangefinder would be my first choice if the lens restrictions would work for your situation.<br> JD</p>

<p>All the 6x7 cameras tend to be bulky and heavy. The RB/RZ 67s a little more so due to the revolving back. I think the smallest 6x7 SLR would be the Bronica GS-1, although it's long out of production, and many questioned its reliability.<br> The Pentax 67 is bulky, but not overly so considering the format, and it handles much like a 35mm/digital SLR. Lenses are generally good to excellent, especially the latest versions. The metering system on the 67II is unbelievably accurate. I religiously bracketed exposures with mine until I discovered that the best exposure was nearly always the first one. A lot of people complain about mirror slap, but it's not that much of an issue in reality. Another frequent complaint is difficulty in loading film, but with a small amount of practice it's nowhere near the chore that some would have you believe.<br> RB/RZ 67s aren't the best for field work, although I've seen some really nice landscape/nature work, and done some myself for that matter, with them. Check out Jim Zuckerman's work. He used to use the RZ system but I think he's since converted to digital. <br> If you're somewhere where you could borrow/rent before you buy it'd be very helpful, but it's not always possible.<br> Any of the 67 cameras are very capable as it was a professional format used by many studio photographers so reliability and good glass are pretty much a given.<br> Only you can decide whether an SLR or rangefinder best suits your subjects and personal preferences.<br> I'm sure that you'll get lots of good advice and many will point out considerations I've not thought of, so keep checking back. This forum is absolutely awesome.<br> Good luck and remember it's never about the camera, "it's about where you set the tripod and where you put the edges"...I think I stole that from Mark Citret.<br> JD</p>

<p>Philip,<br> I found a used Mirex plus a Mamiya 55mm f/2.8n for what I would have paid for the used Mirex alone. I'm a damn happy camper.<br> Oops, I swore, I may have to go wash my mouth out with single malt!<br> Thanks again for all the help. The links were really helpful.<br> JD</p>

<p>Philip, <br> Thanks for the information...it was exactly what I was looking for.<br> I checked your portfolio, and while I tend to shoot straight architecture without the "miniature" effect your stuff is very impressive.<br> Thanks again for taking the time to share your expertise.<br> JD</p>

<p>Don't forget the 70-200 f/4L, either IS or non-IS. Usually much cheaper than the f/2.8L and a lot more compact and lighter, but just as sharp. Much sharper than the 70-210s by the way, especially wide open.<br> JD</p>

<p>Hi All, <br /><br />Does anyone out there have "hands-on" experience using Mamiya 645 lenses on EOS cameras utilizing shift or tilt/shift adapters.<br /><br />That pretty much says it. I do realize that aperture and focus will be manual but that's not an issue for my needs.<br /><br />I'll be using a 45mm f/2.8C initially, but might add a 55mm or 35mm later if it all works out. I'm aware of the TS-E 45mm f/2.8 but the used prices seem to be pretty high at the moment.<br /><br />Any recommendations as to which adapters are best, or should be avoided will also be appreciated.<br /><br />JD</p>

<p>Might blow your budget, but the EF 28mm f/2.8 IS is a really nice lens. Sharp, compact, and the IS can be useful for walk-around/street photography.<br> JD</p>

<p>Have you tried the MAC (Mamiya America Corp.) web site? I would think that they still have support, drivers etc. for digital Mamiyas.<br> Shouldn't matter that you're not in the US.<br> JD</p>

<p>The 6x7cm format was introduced in the '30s (?) by Linhof. It was called the "Ideal Format" because you could print on standard paper sizes, 8x10, 16x20, etc. without cropping. At least that what I remember being told by a Linhof technical sales rep back many years ago when I worked in a camera shop.<br> That's why I used an RB67 when I owned a studio, unlike my Hasselblad shooting competitors, I didn't have to rely on some lab tech deciding how my images should be cropped.<br> JD</p>

<p>The lens could actually go back as far as the '50s I suppose. As near as I can tell it feels like the spacing of the rings on the back of the lens board is actually a bit farther apart than the recesses on the camera body.<br> None of the other levers etc. seems to be interfering in any way. I measured the recesses and the rings and the diameters appear to be the same diameter.<br> I've been using C series TLRs since the '60s, we actually had a dozen of them in the high school program that I taught, but have never run into this problem before.<br> JD</p>

<p>Hi All, <br> I have an older Mamiya Sekor 180mm in a Seikosha shutter (chrome) that won't fit on my C-330f body. Is there some compatibility issue that I'm unaware of? I thought all lenses would fit all the C series bodies. I can't see any obvious obstructions on either the lens or the body.<br> Thanks in advance, <br> JD</p>

<p>Even though this is basically a medium format camera, they did make a 4x5 back for it if I remember correctly, you might have better luck over at the large format forum.<br> JD</p>

<p>About a hundred years ago I co-wrote a book about the Canon lens system and if I remember correctly the 45mm was actually designed for product photography so it might be the best choice. However, I'd go with the 90mm. Use it with a tele-extender, either after-market, or use the Canon extender with a 12mm extension tube between the lens and the extender. It's one of my favorite lenses for macro work. <br> The 24 TSE will give you sharp results but the lens to subject distance will be really short making lighting the product difficult.<br> Lens Rentals.com is your friend at times like this. A short "test drive" will tell you much more than anyone here can.<br> JD</p>

<p>Best bargain I found was the 70-300DO from KEH for $550 USD. They had several when I bought mine a few months ago. Really nice lens, very compact, and it blows the other Canon XX-300 zooms out of the water, with the exception of the (new) 70-300L. I compared them (borrowed/rented both) and it's not all that far behind the "L" version.<br> JD</p>

<p>You say you're experienced so please ignore this if appropriate. IS mode 1, detects and tries to correct any motion, on any axis. Mode 2 allows you to pan horizontally, while correcting any vertical movement. Mode 2 will also understand whether the camera is in the landscape or portrait orientation, and make it's corrections accordingly.<br> Therefore, for the runners, and assuming you're panning with them, mode 2 would be the obvious choice.<br> As I said if all of this is something you already know, feel free to ignore it.<br> JD</p>

<p>Sounds like you've thought everything out pretty thoroughly so you should do fine with the Bronica kit. Just make sure you run enough film through it to be comfortable with it before you hit the trail.<br> Have or pint, or better yet some Aberfeldy single malt, at day's end for me. The Aberfeldy will really help with that cold, well it won't help the cold at all...it just won't matter anymore!<br> And, please, please, please, post some photos for all of us to see.<br> Slante', <br> JD</p>

<p>I hear what you're saying, and in principle agree with you. When I made a living doing this stuff, portraits and other commercial shooting, I developed a personal dislike for square images. No logic behind it, just don't like them. I admit to being a bit more mellow in my old age, but still prefer to print rectangular most of the time.<br> Getting back to the OP's quest, I still would rather carry a 6x9 view or technical camera for what he proposes, but I'll admit that a Hassy, or some such would be easier to shoot with. <br> I hope he'll get back to us and let us know what he decides...inquiring minds want to know!<br> JD</p>

<p>Actually, what I was trying to say is that the difference between 6x7 and 6x6 is very apparent at 20x24, or bigger, and noticeable at 16x20. At 11x14 or smaller I don't think it matters too much, although the really critical could probably still see the difference.<br> I didn't say it too well though, sounded a bit "snippier" than I intended, it was late.<br> My conclusion(s) come from comparing Hassy, Mamiya 6x7, and Mamiya 645, which is what I shot most of the time when I was doing studio work.<br> Hope the OP is able to sift the wheat from the chaff, there's a lot of good info in this thread.<br> JD</p>

<p>I'd say that that pretty much proves the axiom that you can prove any hypothisis using statistics.<br> If you've ever printed a 20x24 from 6x7 neg and compared it to the same size print from a 6x6 neg, which has to be cropped to make a 20x24 by the way, you'd realize the fallacy behind your conclusion.<br> JD</p>

<p>Jeff, <br> You might find an answer by contacting Holly Enterprises in LA, or Metz directly at Manfrotto Distribution.<br> The Quantum battery packs are 6v or 9v, so I doubt they would work, but I'm sure the above sources can give you the straight poop.<br> JD</p>

<p>Ashley, <br> I found a couple of George's action panos, PM me with your email and I'll forward them to you.<br> Jasper is great, our little guy (Mini Aussie) is Bodie. Just 9 months old. I'll post his "baby" portrait.<br> JD</p>

<p>Also, it won't fire if the battery is dead...I should have thought of that first!<br> Red button on the right hand side (top) is the battery check, press it and the green LED on the left side (top) of the camera should glow. It takes a PX-28 (LR-44).<br> If you've tried everything Rodeo Joe and I have suggested, it DOA, time to return it.<br> JD</p>

<p>I too missed the part about the Highlands and Isles. Ann and I spent a month in Scotland last fall and it only rained twice the whole trip. The first time for 20 days and the second time for 12 days. It actually rained some part of every day we were there so think gore tex! Mostly it just was gloomy/drizzly, but a few times it really pissed on us.<br> I think Ortlieb makes water proof packs, I know they make really water proof pannier anyway. I carried oven bags to protect my camera and they worked a treat.<br> I didn't see where you're from but we found that while the hills are not very high, Munroes are only 3,000 ft if I remember correctly. they're damn well are steep and they haven't invented the switchback in Scotland yet. <br> We did a lot of day hikes and loved every (wet) minute of it. Plus you can always dry out/warm up with some single malt.<br> I shot with a Canon 6D and used a 24-70mm lens for probably 90% of my shooting. So you probably don't need really long, or extremely short glass. <br> We (well, I to be truthful) thought about renting a camper (caravan?) as that's how we travel at home. Ann prevailed, and we did the B&B thing, and boy am I glad we did. Great food and comfortable beds with only one exception (Stornoway) and that wasn't terrible. Although we did rename the bathroom," The Hobbit Hole". Neither of us could stand upright in the shower.<br> Don't miss Fort William, it's the Jasper/Banff/Yosemite of Scotland. Every third person we saw was wearing a pack, and the main drag, which is a pedestrian mall, has two back packing shops per block.<br> Now that I know your destination I'm even more intrigued by your trip. The first week we kept looking at things on the map, and saying," If we come back we'll have to..." The second week we both simultaneously started saying, "When we come back...". Guarantee you'll love it. I even learned to love, well like, black pudding!<br> JD</p>