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Brian1664876441

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Everything posted by Brian1664876441

  1. Brian1664876441
    Shooting at 1/45th second, moving subject, with a telephoto lens- being able to pan with the direction of the moving subject reduces motion blur. Being able to see the subject helps lock-on to the motion. Look at the lights in the background of my example photo- those lights are elongated because I panned in the direction of the motion of the subject.
  2. Brian1664876441
    Too funny. The first Digital Sensor I worked on in the early 80s was a thermal infrared sensor. SO- the first Digital sensor I used could record images in complete darkness.
  3. Brian1664876441
    It takes some practice, and I use a 1.25x magnifier for telephoto lenses. I find it easier to use my Leica for moving subjects in low light because the VF does not black out and you can Pan in the direction of motion. Canon 85mm F1.5 wide-open on the Leica M9, ISO2500, 1/45sec. Subject was moving. I'll use the Canon 85 F1.5 and 7Art 75/1.25 on the M9 as it is more limited in ISO than my M Monochrom. I use the Nikkor 85/2 and Canon 100/2 on the M Monochrom.
  4. Brian1664876441
    Wide-open at F1.25, ISO 2500, 1/90th second. Subject did not stay still while focusing. https://cameraderie.org/threads/7artisans-75mm-f1-25.49525/page-2 I use the 75/1.25 7Artisans on my M9, I use a 1.25x magnifier. It takes some careful tuning of the Cam to use with a rangefinder.
  5. Brian1664876441

    Nikon BC-7

    Brian1664876441 replied to FPapp's topic in Nikon

    The PC cord of these Flash Units put the full charge through the camera. The cameras had mechanical switches in them. These flashes often incorporated a capacitor to up the voltage. The camera also provided an M-Sync for flashbulbs rather than X-Sync. X-Sync fires when the focal plane shutter is fully open.Flashbulbs typically required 1/30th second or so to fully discharge, I used 1/30th for my leaf shutter rangefinders. It depends on the rating of the camera for switching this kind of current. Modern electronic flashes no longer dump the capacitor through the camera, but are activated using a switching circuit.
  6. Brian1664876441

    Nikon BC-7

    Brian1664876441 replied to FPapp's topic in Nikon

    It must have been common- I had a "Goldcrest Flash" bought at K-Mart that could take multiple type bulbs. It had a cold-shoe and used the PC cord. I also have many AG-1 type flashbulbs, bought when they were 50cents to 10 cents for a box on clearance.
  7. Brian1664876441
    The banding shown in the Pixii images might be the result of the electronic shutter. On Sensors that publish Data Sheets- the global shutter had 10dB more noise- a lot. There is a reason why most large-sensor cameras still use electro-mechanical shutters.
  8. Brian1664876441
    90mm f/2 Summicron-M III - Leica Wiki (English) It's basically a Sonnar formula lens, not a common formula for Leica to manufacture. Does the seller have a return privilege? Get it and try it for yourself.
  9. Brian1664876441
    The test images that were shown on DPREVIEW show high levels of banding in the shadow area, images at ISO320. The company needs to fix this problem. As it is- the image quality is terrible, people must be buying it because "it is stylish".
  10. Brian1664876441
    You may collapse it on any of the Leica film cameras EXCEPT the M5 and CL, but not on the Digital cameras. I have one, use it a good bit. It is heavier made than the rigid version. Also easier to get under the front element to clean haze out- of you have an issue with that. Mine did- 10 minute job.
  11. Brian1664876441
    White Lithium Grease available at the local hardware store works well for helicals and cams. For loose helicals- either worn or just too much slop: I use Vacuum pump grease. You can find the same type of grease in the Plumbing department at the hardware store, thick lubricant. The main thought to keep in mind: use very little, otherwise the focus will be too tight. I've been doing DIY repairs for over 30 years now, so some long-term life testing of the products. They work. I've found Light oil used by camera repair shops on Ebay, and have used it to repair a Contax IIIA, Minolta Hi-Matic 9, Minolta AL-E, Nikon F2, and several Barnack Leica bodies given to me.
  12. Brian1664876441
    Mine Elw- bought around 30 years ago, Camera still works, will have to take the winder apart.
  13. Brian1664876441
    Congratulations- these are well made cameras, mine all work. Have you replaced the battery? It is well hidden, and a tricky to get at.
  14. Brian1664876441
    I have the EL (Two of them), ELw, and EL2. I also have the Nikon reference manuals. The ELw uses CDS cells and has a 4sec as the longest shutter speed. For the latter, I just checked my camera. The AW-1 that I have stopped working. As for the EL2- I brought it up as it has SPD cells, and the ELw does not. I would suggest the F2Sb for non-Ai, which is what I prefer. I used the ELw with Non-Ai lenses for a long time, even had the fitted case that holds the camera and AW-1. The case dry-rotted. The MIR site is also a good reference for Nikon cameras and specs. The Nikkormat EL-W SLR Camera - Index Page
  15. Brian1664876441
    The EL2 has the improved meter using SPD's, the ELw uses CDS cells.The ELw adds the AW-1 autowinder over the original EL.
  16. Brian1664876441
    I would suggest a Retina IIIS rangefinder which uses the same lenses as the Reflex-S. Less complex mechanism, usually found in working condition. I have a Reflex-S that still works reliably. I put a new prism in it, from a Minolta XG-1. The original prism had badly desilvered. But- I have a hammed Reflex-IV and a Reflex-III that works, but is not smooth. Raising the mirror puts strain on the wind mechanism. The IIIS with it's RF is much smoother, not as much force required to advance the film and cock the shutter. The Reflex cameras place more strain on the fragile cocking rack.
  17. Brian1664876441
    The Vivitar 283 has the variable power adapter as an option. The Nikon SB-29 has manually adjustable output power. I've used it for fill-flash. The Vivitar 283 and other flashes had more F-Stops available for auto operation, you select the one that is close to ambient light. Meter as typical, set the F-Stop of the lens and then use a setting on the flash to mix ambient+flash. If Ambient light is 1/80th and F8, select F11 or F16 on the flash for shadow fill. At least that's how I did this 40 years ago.Typically you had to shoot slow film, like Panatomic-X or Kodachrome 25. The SB-7e that I have is thyristor, as is the older SB-2. Somewhere in the basement, lurks an SB-2.
  18. Brian1664876441
    Nail Polish Remover will soften crazy glue. I would only use it of the part having it applied to is off the camera.
  19. Brian1664876441
    I'll remember this- and will also compare the LF-4 against my LF-1 caps using some calipers.
  20. Brian1664876441
    I use a Wiha 260 1.5x40 flat head screw driver to take the bottom off my early Nikon F2, and tested it against the Nikkormat FTn. The 1971~1972 Nikon F2 bodies also use flat head screws. Picked up a jammed Black '71 F2 body for $25, lucked out clearing the Jam.
  21. Brian1664876441
    The Leica M-Mount, introduced in 1954, is a 4-lug design. The new Leica L-Mount with electronic contacts is also a 4-lug design.
  22. Brian1664876441
    You cannot rule out that the electronics have failed in the camera. The Nikon EH-4 is the AC Adapter for the camera. The even older Nikon E3 batteries are made to recharge with the same charger as the D1 and D1x, the MH-16.The Nikon E3 powers up and operates using a dummy battery with a standard AC adapter wired into the dummy. I have not tried that with the D1, as I have the EH-4.
  23. Brian1664876441
    Just to add: there is a good chance that a Nikkormat FTn uses flat head screws for the bottom cover. Nikon switched to JIS screws around around 1973~1974. In complete darkness, or with a changing bag: you should be able to open the camera, pull the cassette out, and manually rewind the film once it is off the advance sprocket. The take-up spool is not locked into forward only rotation. The rewind button controls the sprocket only.
  24. Brian1664876441
    Classified Click the Above The Classified Ad section on Photo.net is a good place to try. You could list it as a Sell Ad with "Open to Trades", or just a Want-to-Trade. I would check Ebay prices on Summarons and set to the upper end as this one is rare. I would give that a try.
  25. Brian1664876441
    From the OP: "I'd really like to keep the discussion, if possible, restricted to "universals" I thought the OP was looking for "universals" which I interpreted to mean a general discussion of new vs old. If the OP clarifies that they wanted the thread limited to the specific lens, fine- I will delete my comment. As far as trade-offs in optical engineering, modern lenses factor in digital post processing.
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