Brian1664876441

Keeping the discussion to general new vs old: my direct experience is that the Micro-Nikkor AF-D 105/2.8 is superior to the newer "Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED". I have the AF-D version, my friend at work has the newer one. She expressed that the lens was just not as sharp as she had hoped. A tripod test of the two lenses, along with the AF-D Micro-Nikkor 200/4, the older lens is sharper and has less CA.I went looking for specs. DXOmark does not have the AF-D 105/2.8, but does have the AF-D 200/4. The CA on the "modern" 105/2.8 is terrible compared with the older lenses. Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4D ED-IF on Nikon D800E vs Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D on Nikon D810 vs Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED on Nikon D800E Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED - DxOMark Why would an optical engineer do such a horrible thing as design a lens that sucks compared to the prior generation. The new lens is design in the digital age where CA can be corrected in firmware, or in post. The old lens was designed for Film- so corrections had to be done optically. Being a long-time Nikon enthusiast, this was embarrassing. $2000 AF-S zoom needing new electronics set her back $600 or so. I gave her my 24~85 AF-S VR lens, picked up for $25 and repaired it myself. If Nikon wants to sell new lenses- make them better than the ones they are replacing. Instead, they just keep sticking more letters after the name.

You might try listing a "For Trade" here, or on Rangefinder Forum. Get some good pictures of the lens, especially of the condition of the glass. Post some shots taken with it. There are a lot of Leica collectors out there. I suspect you should get some good offers. Your lens should carry a premium as it is rare.

DOH! I meant the frameline preview! One feature I do not miss on the M3 Single Stroke- the DOF preview feature built into the RF patch. I sold the Single Stroke and kept the Double Stroke.I had the 35/2.8 Summaron with Goggles- but sold it at a good price. I end up using the 40/2 Summicron and use the whole viewfinder for framing.

The OP may not want to hear this but: This lens is rare. I would not modify it. Leave it as is. If using the DOF preview is a problem, see if someone will trade a lens for it. It is rare enough someone might trade up to a better lens, and you can leave this one as it is. I would try to trade it for a 35/2.8 Summaron.

The Battery Drain problem I had with an OM2N killed the battery overnight. Like other have stated- it's just low power draw for the electronics.My Nikon FE2 does the same thing if a battery is left in it for a very long time.

Can't be 100 years! My oldest Nikon is only 70 years old. Nikon M. The F100 can use AA batteries, as can the N90/N90s. The Lithium batteries used by the N70 can get pricey. The N80 has an optional battery pack to use AA. Just something else to consider. If you have a Nikon DSLR that uses internal AF motors- getting fully compatible might make a difference. Otherwise- an N8008s is dirt cheap, has a nice finder, uses AA batteries. The N90/N90s adds advantage of AF-D type lenses- may be important for using with flash. My N8008s used to be a DSLR.

The lock key of the adapter comes to "top dead center" on the camera, but the infinity mark of the lens does not- it stops short of TDC. Check that there is dirt/grime/damage in the threads or under the lens between the adapter that prevents it from screwing in all the way. If this is as far as it screws in- try another adapter.

Somehow the above double-posted. The Minolta lens is a Tessar design, like the Elmar 3.5cm F3.5. I suspect that Minolta chose this lens to test the new process as it has few surfaces, and they are all small.

There is a line in the movie "Megamind", "You were right, I was less right" I;m happy to learn that the 3.5cm F3.5 Summaron will focus correctly, that the cam does not rely on the goggles. I have a couple of lenses that are "I can't believe they made this"- the latest is a Minolta Chiyoko 3.5cm F3.5 in Leica mount that is multi-coated at the factory, from 1957. I always thought Pentax was the first to do this in the 60s. This Minolta lens features "Achromatic" coating, is double coated on all surfaces. Double meets the definition for "Multi". This lens is a Tessar formula like the Elmar 3.5cm F3.5.

Summaron f= 3.5 cm 1:3.5 - Leica Wiki (English) Serial Number blocks for the Summaron 3.5cm F3.5, those for the M3 with out goggles are marked.

I've seen a Summicron 35/2 that brought up the 50mm framelines: it was originally a "Goggle" type lens, and the goggles converted the 50mm frame to 35mm FOV but also changed the Rangefinder response. The lens without the goggles had to be focused using the distance scale. The Rangefinder Cam itself was not indexed for a 35mm lens, had to be used with the goggles. Have you verified that you lens correctly focuses using the Rangefinder?

Going by the Serial Number- you have the early 8-element 50/1.4. 1 : 1.4 / 50 (358) 8 element It does NOT use thorium-glass. On the Canon FD-mount, my chrome nosed 50/1.4 is "SC", the later black-nosed lens is an SSC. The coatings changed, but the optical formula is the same as the later (1968) Canon FL 50/1.4. Used on a mirrorless camera- go for the FL mount lens as it has a switch for manual aperture and tends to be cheaper. Leica - Canon 50/1.4 FL Mount on the M9 and M Monochrom My FL mount Canon 50/1.4 is RF coupled and converted to M-Mount.

What batteries are you using in the DS-12? I used to modify batteries for cordless phones for my DS-1. Even found a CH-11 case for it. Agree about the 85/1.8, I have the last version and it is factory Ai modified.

I used the screens for the FE2 in the FE- just use the exposure compensation dial, set to +1/2ev or compensate by setting the ISO lower by 1/2 stop. The screen is brighter than what the meter is calibrated for, the 1/2stop evens things out.

One other tip- depending where you live, keep a watch for camera shows in your area. I've picked up my best deals in person, including lenses that sell for 10x as much on Ebay. Less Canon Serenar 5cm F2 lenses made than the Nikkor, and historically significant. Leica Showcase - Canon 5cm F2 Serenar Picked up for $50 at a Photorama show- needed the infinity lock.

There are eight of them on Ebay now. I suspect over time prices will drop. You are lucky- I got bit by the Nikkor RF lens bug. But- lucked out over the years, knew what to look for. Luckiest find- a Nikon M w Sync and 5cm F1.4 lens for $30 and Nicca III with collapsible Nikkor 5cm F2 for $200. Some prices are collapsing. I've picked up a good set of Canon LTM lenses for a fraction of what they used to sell for. A Canon 50/2.2- about as many made as the Micro-Nikkor 5.5cm/3.5, near mint- $100. Mine is the 89th made- https://cameraderie.org/threads/canon-50mm-f2-2.49879/ This lens used to be advertised for upwards of $500. Other lenses, like the Canon 50/1.2 LTM go for twice what they used to, and the Canon 50/0.95 goes for "obscene" amounts. So- it might be a few years, but like stock- Buy when everyone is selling, but sell only when you don't like it anymore, and you don't use it anymore. OR- when you have one, and then find another in better condition.

Nikon | Imaging Products | NIKKOR - The Thousand and One Nights No.25 According to the Nikkor history of the 55/2.8, the optical properties of the 5.5cm F3.5 were unchanged for the 55mm F3.5 Micro-Nikkor. The 55/3.5 was optimized for 1:10 magnification, the 55/2.8 uses a floating element. In actual use, I also prefer the 55/3.5.

I still use a Tektronix 2467B at work and a Tektronix 2465B at home. I also use Digital scopes and Logic analyzers. There are some things that an Analog scope make easier to catch. Many things that newer Digital scopes make easier to find. Many times, I'm had to write custom data acquisition code to turn a computer into a test device, When shooting film- I much prefer using a Nikon F2Sb, Leica M3, or Nikon SP. For digital- prefer manual focus lenses on the Df and vintage lenses on the M9 and M Monochrom. I also wrote my own DNG processing code in FORTRAN-77. Just part of enjoying the process of making an image.

It's not a common lens, and unique among manual focus Micro-Nikkors in that it focuses to 1:1. Is it worth $600? Not to me, and I've paid as much and more for rare Nikkor lenses. I suspect the prices on this lens will drop quickly as collections are handed down as inheritance to those not as interested. The Nikkor-T 10.5cm F4 in F-Mount used to sell in this price range- I picked up one 6 months ago for $100. https://cameraderie.org/threads/nikkor-t-10-5cm-f4-in-f-mount.49690/ I've had 4 Nikon F's given to me in the last couple of years, one with the Micro-Nikkor 55/3.5 compensating lens. Two that are "Questar Modified", with a mirror-up button. Back to collecting old camera gear is not as popular as it was.

I've never noticed the bayonet lugs being thicker on my Nikkor-SC 55/1.5, HOWEVER- there is an extra piece on metal on the lens mount that is designed to protect the very big rear element from damage when the lens is set down without a rear cap and when being mounted on the camera. That might be an issue. The rear element has a very large, protruding, rear element.

I use a fine-nose, craftsman needle-nosed pliers. Been using these for at least 15 years now. They are narrow enough to remove the retaining ring around the shutter release of the Nikon F and Nikon S2. From my thread on the Minolta Hi-Matic 9 shutter and viewfinder cleaning- https://cameraderie.org/threads/minolta-himatic-9-flood-cleaning-shutter-and-cleaning-viewfinder-also-applies-to-the-7-7s-and-11.50150/

Unjamming a Nikon F2, a "Likely Place to Look" I got lucky with a Black '71 Nikon F2. I have a lot of F and F2 bodies, many with working meters. Two- were jumpy, I used TV Tuner Cleaner on them. It's easier to fix a mechanical camera than an electronic one, which was a different thread in the classic camera forum.

I have the Leica Thread Mount version, same batch as DDD's- SN within about 15 of his. Also have the 13.5cm F4, same batch that he used in Korea. Nikon: 50mm (5cm) f1.5 Nikkor-S.C (M39, chrome) Lens Price Guide: estimate your lens value These days- I think the LTM version would get more than the S-Mount version. Nikkor5cmF15_135_F4 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr Nikkor5cmF15_Sonnar by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr DDD preferred the F1.5 over the F1.4 lens, the earlier lens has smoother out-of-focus regions. Maybe 300 made in Leica mount. The 13.5cm F4- maybe 600 made in Leica mount, very good lens. The OP should be happy I did not suggest getting a Nikon SP... The FM2n and SP are about the same size.

The EL2 uses Silicon PhotoDiodes- essentially the same metering and electronics of the FE.It's a full-sized camera, does not have interchangeable screens. Mine required a new variable resister ring, which is under the ASA/Compensation dial. The FT-3, last of the mechanical Nikkormats. The EL2 (and Elw) can take the "AW-1" autowinder, which lacked continuous fire ... Unless you hold down the DOF lever while firing. Learned that trick 42 years ago. Back to everyone has a favorite. Some of us have, and have used, more Nikons than others. 60+, but I have not counted them for a while. Picked up two Questar-modified Nikon F cameras with mirror-up buttons, can lock up the mirror without wasting a shot. For the OP- I suspect you really want that FM2n, and have the budget- go for it. It's an itch, easily scratched. My "20 year itch" was for a Nikon lens, a Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.5. It was an expensive itch. Ebay- the seller was relieved after I got the lens, let her know I was very happy. She paid off her car loan with the money.

You can use the screens for the FE2/FM2 in the FE- just use the exposure compensation dial to correct for the brighter screen, about 1/2 stop. Years ago- I read that the FE2 puts a small drain on the battery. My experience- drop the battery out if you are not using it for a while. Also- the fitted case for the F3, the CF-20, fits the FE/FM series cameras nicely, and provides a bit of a grip.