danny_liao

I doubt what you have in mind will work. Each computer have it's own calibrations. What will look and print good on yours will probably not work well with hers.

Both should function the same. Where there is a huge difference is accessories. Sinar accessories are often more expensive than other brands. Also, do a simple check on ebay and you'll notice there are a lot of Sinar stuff versus Toyo. So maybe paying a little more so you could have better access to accessories later on might be a better choice. Also with Sinar, all of their accessories are interchangeable between low end models and high end models. All rails, bellows, shades, tripod mounts, front and rear standards, ets...are all interechangeable between models. That's a huge benefit if you ever decide to upgrade from the F1 to a P model. I go with a Sinar F1 if I were you. Last I check, for an excellent condition camera they were going for about 450.00. Which isn't bad.

Paul,

 

I know how you feel man!!! That's why I bought a digital camera but I ended up not using it as much cause I still like film better. So I returned to film and decided to process my own stuff. So I sold my Jobo CPE for a Jobo ATL2 for better control to process color film but now I shoot mostly black & white. Which my $200 CPE could have easily done without spending additional $500 for the ATL. Anyway, why is it in photography that you always end up spending more when you try to save?

Thanks for all the help. I'm certainly going to try Kodak chemicals from now on. The reason why I went with Arista is because I'm still in the testing/experimental stages with developing C41. You know how that goes.

 

I have another question for you guys. I have a ATL2 unit which contains six bottles. I use the first 3 for B&W and the last 3 for C41. If I go with a six step process, is it okay to use the same bottles that I use for B&W? I never leave me chemicals in the bottles and always rinse out the system after each run, but I'm still wondering if it's safe from contamination?

 

Thanks

Richard,

 

Will going to a 6 step process help eliminate the cast?

I've been processing my own color negs (Portra NC & VC) with my Jobo

using the Arista's 3 step processing kit. I've been getting heavy

greenish cyan cast (negs looks really magenta) on my images after I

scan it with no color management. At first I thought it was my

scanner so I scanned some negs processed from a lab and they came out

fine. I was told that I needed to increase the time in the bleach but

that didn't help. I also increased the time in the developer with no

avail. It's not a temp problem cause it stays the same throughout the

process. Anyway, I need some suggestions. Attach is a image with the

color cast.

 

<center><img

src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3865852-lg.jpg"></center>

The reason why your image changes color after flattening is because you're using the layers in the wrong order. If done right, flattening will not change the image at all.

The fact that you used the word "pigs" to describe police officers proves to me your immaturity. I could just imagine how you delt with the situation. How could anyone who call police officers "pigs" help with the situation? It was probably best that you didn't do anything anyways or in the future. With your negative attitude towards them, you'll probably make things worst and ruin it for all the rest of us photographers that like cops who could have easily talk our way out of having our film taken away.

I have a split screen if you would like to trade for your stock one. Email me if you want to trade...danny@dannyliao.com

I would say buy one 2400 than save up for one 1200 or two 600 later. You don't want to be stuck with not enough power. I would also recommend you look into Dyna Lites.

Michael Grecco loves to use grids to achieve his dramatic lighting. I use to love his work, but now i find his use of grids overkill. Anyway, he uses and swears by Dyna lite equipment. It will be hard to achieve his lighting style with shoe mount flashes. I think the best way for you to control lighting with those kind of flash units is to use a lot of flags, card boards, or foam boards. OR save up and invest in some lights. Dyna lights are not as expensive as other brands.

Wow, that's a lot of heavy gear to carry on your shoulders. I would recommend a rolling case. I have a Tamrac 691 Strongbox that holds my RZ, 3 lenses, 5 backs w/one attached to the body, polaroid back, AE prism, and a meter. There are also slots for filters and misc stuff. It's got great padding and it's small enough to take on board a plane when you travel. No need to check it in. Which is great cause you should never check in your camera gear. And when I travel, I throw a backpack in my suit case and transfer whatever I need into my backpack when I get to the destination.

you guys sound like paparazzis. no respect.

you're right. my mistake on the usb.

I would try using the USB port too. I have a 8000 and I'm running it on my mac using the standard firewire port (not Nikon's port) and it works fine. Also, is the green LED light flashing when you launch Nikon Scan?

By the way go here: http://mamiya.com/photography1.asp?id=4&id2=128 to see more of his work.

He shoots Mamiya RZ67. The square is probably the 4x5 Quadra back that Mamiya has for the RZ.

http://www.prophotoconnection.com/

 

They are great! And people there are NICE.

opps...i thought it was a RB or RZ. sorry, i didn't pay attention to the forum.

another obvious question, did you wind the shutter?

if you removed the darkslide and it's still not firing, than i'm not sure what's wrong. are you sure it works with your film back???

chris,

 

Yes, you need to remove it to fire the camera. It's the same with your film backs. Once you put the polaroid back onto the camera, you could remove the darkslide without exposing the film so don't worry about wasting sheets. Once you are done with the polaroid back, slide back in the darkslide to remove the back. The polaroid back attaches and works exactly the same as a regular film back. The only difference is the film.

this is obvious but i thought i ask anyways, did you remove the darkslide on the polaroid back?

I don't own a Imacon but I do have experience scanning with a Nikon 8000 and Canon 9950F. From my experiences, scans without a profile assigned will come out hazzy like the image you posted. I scan without any color management from my scanners, and they come out similar to your image. It happens to both my Nikon and Canon scanners. Try setting some sort of color management in your scanning software and see if you like the result. I do all my color adjustments in PS so I prefer not to have color management from my scanner drivers.

Hahaha...I agree. Sh!t is expensive to shoot and print.

I wish I had that budget when I started out!=) I suggest you go with a used Hasselblad. The 501cm kits are going for around 1100 in excellent condition. Anyway, just a thought. If you're going to stick with 35mm, try the Nikon FE series or the FM series or the F3 if you are going for used gear. If you want new, go for the Nikon FM3A. Of course these are all manual cameras with metering, which are the best way to learn photography. But if you want full auto, the Nikon F100 is always good to go.