danny_liao

"The ring light is very harsh on the eyes and anoying to the subject. What helps a little bit

is having the soft reflector for it."

 

Not if you know what you're doing! Check out www.danwintersphoto.com. I love the way

he uses his ringlight.

arghhh...nevermind. Was going to repost but realized this is a Leica forum. sorry.

here's mine

I have a suggestion. Try using filtered water or distilled water. I used to get residues

when I use regular tap water. But once I started using filtered water, the residues went

away.

Just because a kit is expensive doesn't mean it's better. You'll just be wasting money. If

you like Speedotron, then stick with it. It's a lot cheaper than Broncolor and it performs

just as well. I suggest you also try looking into Dynalites and Profoto before you blow you

$$$ on Broncolor. Remember, the more expensive the kit the more expensive the

accessories.

I don't know about you guys, but the black floor is not what I'm looking at.=) I think the

image looks fine as is.

Icon on Wilshire. www.iconla.com

There's a reason for the price difference. Just go to your nearest camera shop and

compare the cable on the Profoto head to any other brand...Speedo, Dyna Lite, etc. You

will easily notice how heavy duty the Profoto cable is compare tot he other brands.

Something as simple as that could tell you how reliable the product is. Now, I'm not

saying the other brands are not as good but I just want to point out that you DO get what

you pay for. Reliablity is definitely an issue. Just think about it this way, how professional

would you look if you're lighting kit clunks out on a shoot with a very important client?

 

Also, the higher end strobes will produce consistant results. With the cheaper brands, you

could get inconsistant output and color temperature. Which is a major drag!!! Also,

higher brands can produce faster recycle time which means you could shoot faster. This

could be an important issue if you like to shoot fast action stuff or fashion. Flash duration

is also an issue to be considered. Faster the duration, the easier for you to stop fast

action so you really have to think about your needs. On the other hand, if you want to be

a portrait photographer then you probably don't need the fast recycle time or a fast flash

duration cause the subject is usually stationary. If that's the case, maybe something in

the middle of the price range would be okay for you with average recycle and flash

duration time. However, don't ever sacrifice reliabilty. Don't buy anything low end!! In

my opinion, reliablity is the most important factor.

 

One last thing to consider. If you get anything on the high end, I will warn you now that

every accessory you buy afterwards will be expensive. I have Profoto gear. I hate buying

accessories cause they run at upwards of $250 or more for just a damn reflector!!! I would

suggest Speedotron and Dyna Lite if you can't afford anything high end. They perform

just as well as Profoto, Broncolor, and Elinchrom. Much cheaper too but still as reliable.

 

By the way, if you're a student look into http://www.macgroupus.com/. That's where I got

mine. If it wasn't for the discount, I would have went with Dyna Lites.

Focus has nothing to do with aperture or exposure. Once your F-stop is set, it's set.

Unless you change it of course.

The 10.5 is a damn good lens. I love mine. I suggest you friend save up and get the

Nikon instead of getting a 3rd party brand.

I found the interview absolutely boring. It's like watching someone trying to talk about

something that they have absolutely no clue/knowledge to what the topic they are

discussing. In my opinion, Tim Russert, did a horrible job. The interview was dry and

boring. His questions and comments were generic and not interesting at all. I could

honestly say that Annie, to me, looked extremely bored.

Quick question. What happens if I process the polaroid but don't clear the NEGATIVE until few hours

after exposure? Reason why I'm asking is because I don't want to carry a jug of clearing agent around

everytime I use Type 55.

 

Thanks

I've seen a lot but this is the only one that seems reputable.

 

http://photoawards.com/

"become one with the street, become invisible, be the street."

 

okay Bruce Lee. haha...that just reminded me Bruce Lee's comment about the water

becoming the cup.

 

anyway, tough situation you got yourself into. i suggest you pack a bottle of mace and

some hand cleaning lotion the next time you go out. AND i always wear running shoes

just in case i have to get away fast.

"Apparently there will be assistants, make- up people and so forth at my disposal, and I

will have a substantial budget for... stuff that real photographers do, I guess."

 

Okay, first of all I'm a little terrified by the above statement. Have you EVER worked with a

crew before...assistants, make-up, stylist, etc??? From your statement, it sounds like you

are expecting them to provide the help. I hope that's not the case cause YOU'RE the one

who needs to put the team together. Unless they told you that they are providing you with

a crew, don't expect them to provide one for you. Some publications will provide makeup

and wardrobe stylist but no assistant/s. And some won't provide anything...not even a

concept. So if you haven't already, start looking for makeup artists, stylist, and assistants.

 

As for concepts. Since this is your first "pro" gig, I suggest you stick with what you're

comfortable with...Leica M, 50mm, and B&W. You want more jobs like this so you don't

want to screw up or look incompetent fiddling with equipment you're not familiar with

especially if whoever hired you is hanging around the shoot.

 

Also, provide snacks and beverages for your crew and client if the shoot is going to take

place indoor. Provide meals if the shoot goes into lunch time.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Can someone post some samples of images lit with Profoto's Narrow Beam

Reflector? I would like to see the quality of light produced by this reflector.

Thanks.

don't forget the 17-35 Tamron f2.8 DI. it's a great lens.

how can you tell if it's AI or AIS? I have a 28mm but it doesn't say which model it is.

That's about the funniest thing I've seen PN for a long time. hahah

Try CABIN. They are a bit more pricey but they are nice lightboxes/lightpads. Try searching ebay for better deals.

check all connections and reinstall driver. that always works.

D1x with the buffer upgrade will make that clicking sound. There's nothing to worry about.

Thanks for all the suggestion. Unfortunately, I have to get to the 4th frame to get the meter to activate. It does not activate at frame 1, meaning frame 1 on the counter. So for me, I have to blow through the two frames before 0 and then 3 more after 0 on the counter. Any suggestions on how to set it so I won't have to waste 3 good frames?

I just recently picked up a used F3. Everything works fine except

everytime I load a fresh roll, I have to fire off a few frames for the

meter to work. It doesn't matter where I set the shutter speed

(1/2000, 1/250, or AUTO), the meter reads 1/80 until I get to the

fourth frame mark on the counter. Is there any way I could adjust

this or do I have to take it to a shop?

 

Thanks

sorry, but isn't it common sense to keep ALL photo equipment away from gettting wet??? and if you're going to shoot in the rain, isn't it common sense to protect your gear and use an umbrella, rain coat, jacket, tarp??? water on film and polaroid would be the least of my concerns. you better hope water didn't get into your lens and shutter.

 

"Should I just bring an umbrella next time??" Have you not learn your lesson? PROTECT YOUR GEAR!