diegobuono

Hi all, few days ago, I examined recent scan and I noticed that the the pictures shot with the CFE 40 TELE are soft (I exclude scanner issue: the other pictures are sharp, the scanner is an Hasselblad Flextight); the second focusing ring was properly set. Yesterday I used the lens on the body of a friend provided with a Phase One P25 Digital Back; comparing the picture shot with my CFE40 and his CF40 the difference is astonishing at full aperture and short distance and even at medium aperture (f 8 - 11) at short distance; at medium aperture at infinity no difference visible. Some years ago I slipped on wet rocks and the backpack on my shoulder with camera and lenses bitted the ground (the shock was quite hight, the focal plane shutter of mu 203 FE opened but the mirror did no go up. After The reset of the camera, with the "double exposure" button, all seems to work OK) could this could be the cause of the problem? Lens misalignment? I will bring the lens to the Italian repair center but I am worried about the possibility the lens can be repaired. Is this a work that can be made by a properly trained technician or the lens should go to Hasselblad? Do the technician needs some particular instruments the no all technician have, or it is something that they should do without problem? I hope some of you with experience in lens repair (David Odess comes to mind) can explain me and give me some tips on further test I should perform before bring the lens to the technician. Thank you in advance.

I use Rollei IR 400 with an Heliopan RG815 filter and I am very satisfied. You can see some pictures in my gallery (unfortunatly I do not update since a long time). No problem at all in obtaining very dark skyes. InfraRed Photography | Photo.net Recently that film as been updated (now is called Rollei Infrared) and its infrared sensitivity is slightly increased.

This lab in Italy, near Lecco (wich is near Milano) still do optical enlargment from all the film format. (senza titolo) It allora you to be there during the work so you can choose how you want the print. I suppose that you can call them and ask how to send the film, or you can take a trip to Lecco, stay a week end there, take some picture around there (wonderfull places). The offer rooms and guest-house for film photographer that come for a couple of days to have theyr film printed. Noleggio delle camere oscure e ospitalità in cascina

Ilford HP5+ is available as special order every year, check the ilford site. ILFORD Photo ULF and custom film size manufacture 2017 - Ilford Photo

Fiodor, unfortunatly (in the true sense of the word) I live in Italy otherwise I would be glad to scan some of your frame to show you how does it works and the quality you can obtain. Anyway, if you happen to be in Italy (nice place to visit, even if not to live in) bring with you some films and we can arrange a scanning session if you want. You would consider to buy a used scanner (I bought mine second hand, together with a friend of mine), the price range for a 646 model (practically the same as the current X1, only slower) is 2.500-3.500 Euro and if you decide to sell it one day you probably sell it for the same price, they are quite wanted. On yahoo there is a Group called "imaconusers" (Imacon was the brand name before the merge with Hasselblad), you can find all the information you need and some used scanner too. Have a good luck.

Ask the lab with the Hasselblad scanner to give you the .fff file, it is kinda of a raw file (and it is 16 bit, and always at the Max dimention allowed by the scanner for a given frame format), no intervention by the operator. Then by the flexcolor software (free download from Hasselblad web site) you adjust it the way you like. The .fff file should cost even less then a .tif or .Jpg because is a straight scan, everyone can perform it because no intervention is required, it take few minutes to scan a frame. Ask the lab, then ask again;) because they are reluctant to give the .fff scan because the facto that no intervention from the operator is required (so they can not yustify the high price the apple for a scan;)).

I just checked and I can confirm that CFE lenses take into account if they are stopped down.

" A related question. I have noticed that if I do stop down and meter, the shutter speed value differs by 0,5-1 stop compared to if I do not stop down. " That is not the correction behaviour, the lens should comunicate to the camera that the lens is stopper down; see this: FE lens and light meter, strange behaviour I will check again with my other lenses.

Just a bit of clarification: The 50 CFI-IF does not exist, it does exist the FE 50 with an internal moving group without the need of the secondary ring to set the distance (and electronic contact for the communication with the 200 serie body). The "i" does not indicate the electronic coupling, it stand for "improved" (ergonomics, internal reflection suppresion, etc), the "e" in the CFE or FE version indicate electronic coupling. It is the 40 IF that is designed with cropped digital sensor in mind (and it has an internal moving group without the need of the secondary ring to set the distance)

Yes AgBr, what you wrote is correct.

I would love a square sensor at lest 41 x 41 mm or a rotating sensor like in the old Leaf back. The prototype 4116 they showed last year were very interesting, I want to say how I would develop it (or, "I will buy if"): Square sensor 41 x 41 mm Same flange as the classic V sistem and same and compatible bayonet so that old lenses can be used. (New buyer can start with the lenses they already own and later could buy the new line developed for the new reduced 41x41 format). New line of lenses (autofocus or manual focus, you choose), starting with wide-angle. Reflex or mirrorless. Some basic TTL exposure system (like the 203FE) with aperture priority mode.

https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/hasselblad-back-light-leak-or-other-issue.233720/

As already explained, the dark strip at the top is correctly exposed whereas the whole picture is fogged by internal reflection. I think it is due to the design of the camera (mirror box) because sometimes (in particular situations) happens to me too with 2 different bodies (both 203 fe). The fact that happens with the 203fe let me think it is not due to the auxiluary shutter door. I have some old post (with pictures) regarding the problem but I do not find the way to reach my previous posts since they changed the site (damn, I find it it very unfriendly).

I shot MF 6x6 and my favourite wide angle lens is the 40mm

On most of my pictures in my gallery there was data regarding location (other than camera, lens, etc.) andò I do not see it anymore, did they disappear with the new (ugly IMHO) version of the site?

If you want you van sede some in one of my galleries https://www.photo.net/gallery/832031#//Sort-Newest/All-Categories/All-Time/Page-1

It should ne the same

Hello all! I installed the pme90 (recently bought used) on my hasselblad but now I can't remove the magazine. I push the "protruding part of the magazine catch operating slide" ad per instruction manuale, but it is very hard and probably does not push enough the slide latch on the magazine. Do you know how can I solve the problem? And how can I fix the PME90 prism so that it does not happen again? Thank you in advance.

That thosr pictures pur in a shoebox are already been seen by someone, instead those still on film under the form of a latent image no?

CF are better ergonomics-wise (and have a newer, probably better, shutter) but are optically the same. So, if you are accustomed to the C version I see no reason to "upgrade". Think this way: are you sure that the lens you buy will not need a CLA in a short time? Instead, once your actual lens is serviced by David you are pretty sure it will perform smoothly for a long time.

The more recent magazine are a bit different in construction, with the little roll placed on the upper and lower side of the frame that protude further more beyond the corner causing that shape on the film. I do not have information about serial number or the year when the the production of the new model started, anyway if you manage to look at a recent magazine (may be in a shop) you will notice the difference. Once you looked at it once, you will be able to tell apart the two type for future shopping.

Nevertheless if I were forced to go digital this is the camera that I would buy. No other digital camera to date has aroused my interest

Hasselblad unveiled a very interesting (in my opinion) concept study for a new camera body with a square sensor. http://www.hasselblad.com/inspirati on/4116-2/v1d-4116-concept It is shown under they section "4116" that celebrate the 75 Yeats of the company. It is a coincidente that the sensor is 75 mpixel? Let's hope they do not wait 5 years to release it, the wait would not be worth the gain of 5 mpix ;-) Joke aside I find it very interesting, probably is really just a concept but if this is the case why declare its sensor is 75 mpix (probably a crop out from the actual 100 mpix CMOS sensor)? Except they deliberately want to joke about the anniversary? But if this was the case I suppose they would enphatize this, both in the name and in the announcement. I for sure would prefer a sensor bigger than 4 x 4 cm, nevertheless I like that concept very much.

Thank you very much for your help. Diego

Bit if I want ti replace the original tripod shoe (full of scrstch and dents) with a new one (genuine Hasselblad spare part) fan I do it by myself? Do I need special instruments or,simply, I only need to unscrew the screws that hold it in place, replace the tripod shoe and tighten the screws again? I am wortied that the screws that holder the tripod shoe holder something else and when I loose them something goes out of allignment