flash for m6

[gus_gus1]

<p>Thinking of buying a flash for my M6. Also might use it on my RE and R8. But mostly for the M6. I have beenlooking at Leicas SF20 or the SF24D. I can get a used SF20 for about half of the cost of a used SF24. Any thoughts or input will be appreciated. Thanks. Gus.</p>

[todd_angood]

Hi Gus,

From actual experience, I had the sf20 when I had my M6 and R8. It worked fine until I bought an M8. The sf 20 does

not work on the M8 so I traded it for an SF24. Just something to rememeber if you ever go the Leica M digital route some

day. I currently have a Leica M 240 and the sf24 works fine. Good luck to you in your purchase.

[Richard Williams]

<p>For the M6 alone (assuming it's a classic, not a TTL) you might consider a non-Leica flash, which will probably be cheaper and more versatile. You can buy (e.g.) a new Metz 36 C-2 for less than what some people are charging on ebay for an SF20, and you get more power and a very useful bounce head. I believe Metz also make the Leica flashes.</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<p>Another vote for a Metz flash - just make sure you buy one that is adaptable to the RE and R8.</p>

[aplumpton]

<p>I've used the Sunpak 622 with 160 GN (also available is the Super 622 with 200 GN) with most of its seven flash heads (zoom, bare bulb, IR, diffuse source, macro and standard) and believe it has a dedicated (non TTL) module for Leica. If you need flexibility, and very good (uniform) flash coverage, it might be a possibility for you. </p>

[Jochen_S]

<p>Metz or anything else with SCA adapters. - The SF 20 uses a non rechargaeable Lithium battery doesn't it? - Can you afford those? - If a flash takes AA(A)s, buy Eneloops; they are awesome, while ordinary NiMhs become a major pain in the behind. They might pack more capacity than Eneloops but should be charged the night before a shooting to deliver it. Way too much hassle in my book.</p>

[SCL]

<p>I've been using a Metz (CL-4 - hammerhead version) for years on all of my cameras (including the M6 when I owned one). Like its consistency and flexibility.</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>No need to get an SF-24, I think the SF-20 would have the same functionality on the M6. I liked the SF-20 including the small, powerful batteries, but as others say, there is really no need to get this as its main raison d'etre was to provide TTL measurement with the M6TTL and R8, so I would go with some of the other choices above such as Metz (probably a bit overpriced), Sunpak, Vivitar, or Yongnuo.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>For most work with my M6 I used a Sunpak 1600 Auto, which is small and can even be aimed upwards. When I needed more light I used a manual Sunpak which I bought in the 1970s.</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<p>For less than $50 USD, you can acquire a 'mint' super versatile <strong>Auto</strong> flash with professional build quality that fits beautifully on the classic M6:</p>

<p>With less than 4 volts of trigger voltage, it low profiles, bounces, sidelights, PC input for remote aux flash set-ups, has a locking <strong>pivoting</strong> shoe<br /> and even <strong>points down</strong> for (DualRange) macro lenses!<br /> All in a super easy to set <strong>compact</strong> style unit. <a href="http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/nikon_sb-15.pdf">Nikon SB-15</a> <<< click<br /> (Flash is smaller than <em>picture</em> angle represents)</p><div></div>

[knut_schwinzer]

<p>SB 28 was my choice, already lying around. Whenever possible, I use flash's A-mode and bounce. Reliable, but a bit topheavy, like all hot shoe mounted flashes on a M.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Except when I used a very small flash gun, I found it best to use a bracket which held the flash to one side. The CTOOM allows the flash to go above the camera when that is held vertically.</p>

[aplumpton]

<p>Addendum - The Sunpak 500 and 600 series are so-called "potato masher" style flashes, employing, like the Metz 60 series, a bracket mounting. This I think suits the small size of the M cameras, unless a very small flash unit is used on their accessory/hot shoes. </p>

[SolaresLarrave]

For a traditional Leica M6, the Nikon weaponry does well (agree with Kurt about the SB-28). Other than that you can go for more economic models and you'll do fine. The SF20 works fine with the M6TTL but the SF24 is for digital bodies and the Minilux (IIRC). If you cannot get your hands on a used Nikon (SB26 comes to mind), look for the Vivitar line too. There are lots of choices and many are automatic too!