Richard Williams

The F65/N65 is also compatible with G (and AF-S and VR).

You can still get the old free versions from Google's site without registering with DxO. They've removed the documentation, but not the downloads: http://dl.google.com/edgedl/photos/nikcollection-full-1.2.11.exe http://dl.google.com/edgedl/photos/nikcollection-full-1.2.11.dmg

I'm wondering when they'll kill off CS6 reinstallation altogether. They've already 'retired' the activation servers for CS3, and unless you registered for the special installer that doesn't need activation when they offered it (quietly, and for a short period) reinstallation is no longer possible, even if you bought the $2000 Master Collection.

Could it be a Roman 900mm lens?

If they are under 40 years old, you should have quite a choice of Nikon dSLRs - the key transition from pre-AI to AI happened in the late 70s. To tell these lenses apart, take a look at this page (I don't always rate Ken Rockwell's stuff, but he is solid on this): Nikkor Lens Technology If you do have pre-AI lenses (and they haven't been converted to AI), the Df is the only properly compatible Nikon dSLR option, but it's rather expensive and may now be discontinued. For AI and later, you might look first at one of the other full-frame (FX) bodies, such as the D750 or a secondhand D800, D810 or D610 (the current D780 and D850 would work well, but are quite a bit more expensive). These bodies will meter with older lenses, and will autofocus if any of them are AF (even the older 'screwdriver' system that requires an AF motor in the camera body) The crop-sensor (DX) bodies will also work, but reduce the angle of view for each lens. The cheaper ones won't meter with older lenses, and most of these also won't autofocus with 'screwdriver' AF/AF-D lenses.

I'd choose the F100 over any other Nikon film camera except (probably) the F6 (the F5 is too much of a tank). Most of the advantages have already been mentioned. It has the two dial interface that began with the F5 and continues in the dSLRs. VR and G lenses are fully compatible, so it's easier to share glass with a dSLR. You have 5 AF points (all 3 horizontal points are cross-type) and the AF works very well (even today, it's no slouch). The rubber can get sticky, though it doesn't turn into goo like the coating on the back of the F90/N90 can. But its Achilles heel is that plastic door catch. If it breaks, the whole back has to be replaced, and is no longer available as a spare unless you can find one secondhand or pick up the otherwise largely useless MF-29 data back. I've read about a talented repairer fabricating a metal catch like it should have had in the first place, but that's not a service that's commonly available.

You can see it here: https://d1ro734fq21xhf.cloudfront.net/attachments/00Dpih-26026984.jpg and in several images on this page: elrectanguloenlamano: ROBERT CAPA´S FIRST LEICA SOLD DURING THE HISTORICAL 22ND WESTLICHT CAMERA AUCTION It can be pretty hard to read:

How about a smaller and more realistic volume of water and some controls? You could try box + rice vs box without rice vs open air, see how much water is left in each case, then write it up for publication in a journal that accepts frivolous research in the Christmas issue. Might even have a shot at the Ig Nobel for physics.

I think that used to be the case, but I haven't seen a cheap T3 for a long time (some have gone for £140 to an eye-watering £250 on ebay in recent months). People even want silly money for the unremarkable T Zoom because of the Zeiss name and the 'T4 halo'.

One fixed focal length P&S that performs very well and is still available relatively cheaply is the Canon Sure Shot Supreme: SURE SHOT SUPREME - Canon Camera Museum A couple of years ago you could get one for the price of film and processing, though they're about double that today on ebay. But it's still a bargain compared to something like a Yashica T4 (with similar performance). The curvy styling is very 80s, which I like to think of as retro cool. It takes one of those slightly obscure lithium batteries that are fortunately still in production, in a cunningly concealed compartment you need a screwdriver to open. As it's lithium, even an ancient battery probably hasn't corroded and trashed the electronics. There's a fiddly button on the base you have to hold in if you want to turn off the automatic flash in low light, and if you get the original strap it has an even fliddlier cap you can use to block the flash sensor to force it to fire in bright light. But these questionable design choices are more than made up for by a sharp 4 element 38mm f/2.8 lens you can pre-focus with a half press of the shutter release, and the autoexposure does a good job.

As Mike suggests, you should now try to dry this as thoroughly as possible. Leaving any residual moisture in the lens is just asking for fungus.

Don't be silly, Vincent.

Another reason to avoid the 50mm AF-S lenses on this body is that they are G lenses (i.e., they lack aperture rings). Neither your camera nor the N90/F90 can manually control the aperture on these lenses, so you'd be stuck at minimum aperture in M and A modes. If you buy more lenses in future, you also need to avoid AF-P (won't focus at all, even manually) and electronic aperture 'E' lenses (no aperture control).

The AF-S is reportedly a bit sharper wide open, and you get circular out of focus highlights and silent focusing. It's compatible with all Nikon dSLRs, the later AF film SLRs that have command dials for aperture control, and the Z adapter (I'd be very surprised if there's ever a screwdriver AF Z adapter). However, the AF-D is smaller, has less distortion, and is compatible with all the film SLRs as well as the dSLRs with screwdriver AF (which excludes some low-end bodies). Out of focus highlights are circular wide open, but become heptagonal when you stop down a bit. Contrary to some of the suggestions above, comparative reviews report the AF-D focuses significantly faster: Nikon 50mm f/1.4G Review Nikon 50mm AF-S vs AF-D Nikon 50mm f/1.4G AF-S Nikkor Review Focus speed testing - Nikon 50mm lenses (D vs G) https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-50-1p4g-n15

So there are 3 different serial numbers, or do 2 of them match? The electronic serial number is the only one that can't be tampered with, and so is the most reliable. It has nothing to do with Adobe - take an image straight off the media card without using Lightroom and upload it to: Jeffrey Friedl's Image Metadata Viewer and you should see the same number in the 'Serial Number' field under MakerNotes (MakerNotes are metadata fields specific to a camera manufacturer - here Nikon is reponsible for them, not any third party). But perhaps the Nikon rep just doesn't want to endorse the output of a program that isn't under Nikon's control. In theory, third party software could be reading the serial number incorrectly (though that's extremely unlikely).

It seems really odd that nothing with a wider range reached production until the end of the 90s, especially if that 28-80 is what it seems. Looking back at the dates, Canon had a 28-70 f/2.8 in 1993 (with USM), yet when the strikingly advanced F5 launched in 1996 Nikon's fast standard zoom was still this limited range push-pull screwdriver lens from the previous decade, while their 80-200 was an early 90s refresh of another one-touch design from the same period. The 80-200 got its long-lived two ring makeover the following year, but it wasn't until 1999, six years after Canon, that you could put a 28-70 f/2.8 on that F5. Of course that year Nikon pulled out all the stops - a trio of AF-S f/2.8 zooms, the F100, and the D1.

Good catch! It's AF-S, of course. I suppose the 'missing link' in the other thread, the 28-80 f/2.8 (prototype?), would be the ultimate standard zoom for these cameras if you could ever find one.

I don't know what the kit zoom was at that point, but the 28-105 that came out a few years later (not really a kit zoom, but often bundled with the F100) is very good, has a useful range, and does semi-macro close focusing. Or you could go for one of the pro zooms like the 35-70 f/2.8 that Ben mentions, or the 28-70 f/2.8 that followed it. You generally won't go wrong with the AF primes from this period, though the 35/2 has a reputation for developing sticky aperture blades. The 50s, like the 50/1.4, are as excellent as you'd expect. The 105/2 DC is a really special lens for portraits (not for the DC effect, just generally): Nikon 105mm f2 DC Users I'm rather a fan of the old 70-210 f/4 AF, the fixed aperture version - it won't win any prizes for focusing speed, but everything else is good. See this link: Dante Stella - 70-210 f/4 AF Nikkor

I think the AF-P FX lenses have VR switches on their barrels, so you're not stuck with having that on all the time with the D800 etc. The D2 series aren't compatible with E, which came in with the D3 and D300. I think everything after these was compatible except the D3000, which was still CCD.

Slow early AF, with screwdriver AF lenses only (AF, AF-D). Doesn't autofocus with AF-S, can't control aperture of G lenses manually. And like the other film cameras, no aperture control at all with E lenses, no AF with AF-P. Compatible with manual focus AI lenses, but not pre-AI.

To the F6, F5, F100 and F80/N80 you can add two low-end cameras, the F75/N75 and the F65/N65. Both of these only have a single command dial, so manual mode is a bit fiddly. All work with AF-S, 'screwdriver' AF, G and VR. Anything before the F5 will be less compatible (none can control the aperture manually with G lenses, for a start). The only post-F5 camera with less compatibility is the very low end F55/N55, which can't drive AF-S or VR. As above, no film camera is compatible with E or AF-P. While the F6 has no better lens compatibility than other late film cameras, it is the only one that will work with iTTL/CLS flash. Anyone wanting to maximise compatibility between digital and film systems should probably choose mostly AF-S G lenses. Screwdriver AF lenses won't autofocus with lower end dSLRs, or the FTZ adapter for the Z system. The motors in the handful of AF-S lenses with aperture rings are getting a bit old, tend to suffer from the 'squeal of death' syndrome, and some of them have reportedly blown the fuse in the FTZ adapter.

Just in case Felix has been checking this thread hopefully for the last 17 years, I imagine it would be fine. The M6 Classic doesn't have any dedicated flash contacts to interfere with, and the SB-30 has manual and non-TTL auto modes that will work (as well as a TTL mode that won't).

The price just kills it, 3490 Euros including VAT for the 8GB version. For that, you could buy a nice M240 and a Leica lens.

Recent installation notes for things like Capture NX-D also exclude Windows 7 from the list; no idea if they actually continue to work. If you still have Windows 7, you can probably get a free upgrade to 10: Here's how you can still get a free Windows 10 upgrade | ZDNet If you don't have that extended support arrangement, it's becoming increasingly risky to use Windows 7 online, as vulnerabilities won't be patched.

Not sure I'd want to rub a conductive powder into an electronic camera, in case it got into the works...