fixer for C-41 film

[kadir_kirisci]

<p>Hello, I'm trying to get a fixer for C-41 film.<br />I have two options, I can make my own but it costs a lot,<br>

or buy one.<br>

<br />Can i use this fixer for c-41 film, it says C-41/ RA-4 and it makes me confused.<br>

http://www.adorama.com/KKFCRAFR5L.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwnf2wBRCf3sOp6oTtnjYSJAANOfheHIu0S4cQxPXHEzEVYJN7q4H7HFSbUgdr5kJj-6nq2RoCo3zw_wcB<br>

--<br>

Is there any other fixers that i can use with color films? For example, ilford rapid or anything like that?<br />any recommendations? <br>

I do not want to buy C41 kits with everything needed. I make my own developer and bleach from left over chemicals I have. However I have not enough chemicals for c-41 fixer <br>

thanks </p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>The 4 step C-41 process is:<br>

Color Developer<br>

Bleach<br>

Fix<br>

Stabilizer<br>

The C-41 Rapid Access (RA) will work just fine. So will most any rapid fix (black & white) formula. The fix step is not critical however -- if you are using an abbreviated process that uses a bleach/fix (combines these two steps) then you must use a blix.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Actually the fix step is critical. It needs to be PH 6.5 or the colours will shift. Do not use a BW fixer that does not have PH 6.5</p>

<p>I use this adjusted Fixer25 formula.</p>

<p>C-41 (ph 6.5 adjusted)</p>

<p>Distilled Water (125°F/52°C) 500 ml<br /> Sodium thiosulfate (anhy) 152 g (250g pent)<br /> Sodium sulfite (anhy) 10 g<br /> Sodium bisulfite 4.5 g<br /> Distilled water to make 1000 ml</p>

<p>It works fine on BW as well.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Any Rapid fixer is fine.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The "RA" in the name of that fixer has nothing to do with "RA-4" paper. In this case, "RA" is for "Rapid Access" for minilabs. It can be used in a "washless" process in minilabs. But nothing wrong with using it for sink line processing, washing normally, and then using the (mandatory) final rinse.</p>

[kadir_kirisci]

<p>So can someone put a link for a fixer from Adoroma or B&H, please?<br /> I read some Ilford products they sa<br />"It is easy and convenient to use in the temperature range of 18-40°C (66-104°F) for fixing black and white film and paper in all manual and machine processing applications."<br />--<br />I do not want to buy that huge kodak fixer (its 5 liters) <br />I want something small to start with.<br /> 1 liter small bottle will do just fine.<br /><br />I just do not want to buy the wrong stuff and destroy my films. <br /><br />Thanks</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>You will not destroy your film using any old Rapid Fix – the same one used for black & white.<br>

The fix of choice is the RA-4 fix. However, the formulation is nearly the same as its black & white cousin.<br>

The dyes used in modern films fall under the heading of organic chemistry. All organic stuff undergoes changes when heated or subjected to a pH change.<br>

These films are incorporated meaning the dyes are inserted during manufacture. These dyes are initially frail, a state called leuco (Greek for white). They blossom to become full blown cyan, magenta and yellow at the end of the processing cycle. The cyan dye may remain in the leuco state if the pH is too low.<br>

This leuco cyan dye condition has been a problem but modern films are now more resistant. Besides, the condition is reversible by re-fixing.<br>

Now I will tell you that the best solution to use is one designated for the C-41 process. If I could not find or could not afford or if it was a pain to get the right stuff I would use ordinary black & white rapid fixer.<br>

Now take it or leave it – I only have 55 years’ experience and color print and process is my field.<br>

Also, you can likely go to a local lab and buy a quart or so from them. <br>

</p>

[glen_h]

<p>I suspect the OP isn't so close to a well-stocked store as some of us are.</p>

[kadir_kirisci]

<p>Indeed I'm not. I have to make my own stuf, I buy necessery chemicals in bulk and use them over and over again. the fixer formula i found had so many "unique" chemicals that I do not own or will never need for something else. So I needed to ask. The formula Peter gave is perfect for my needs and I can make it. Thanks again Peter!</p>

<p>But again,many people said that any rapid fixer is fine, so I can order 5L ilford rapid fixer and be done with it.<br>

______<br />Some people may wonder or question why I'm not getting a press kit or c41 kit.<br />Well, they are really expensive. The C41 dev I make goes for a really long time. Press kits usually go for 18 rolls max. My dev costs me like 4 dollars per litter and developes more than 18 rolls. Same for the bleach and stab<br /><br />Any ways,<br>

Thanks again!</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>Kodak Z131_05 is the bible as they invented the C-41 process.<br>

http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acrobat/en/service/Zmanuals/z131_05.pdf<br>

See appendix E<br>

ph of the fixer to be 6.5<br>

Measure fixer pH with pH meter and adjust by adding sodium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. <br>

If you follow this recommendation you will be on specification. <br>

The Ilford rapid fix comes out pH 5 thru 5.5. You can adjust.<br>

Again I point out that modern films are not as prone to a leuco-cyan dye condition. If your film should show signs - you can re-fix in a fixer with pH 6.5</p>

<p> </p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Alchemy at it's finest. doo it and remember that if it looks dark it is a chemical. ;)</p>

[robert_hill11]

<p>Errr.....for $20 you can get the Unicolor kit....Blixer....just add water. Why bother cooking up your own caustics, when they have done the chemistry for you?</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Cause for about $10 I can do it for a year.....for the amount that I use....by making only as much as I need.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>And blix does bite the big one.</p>

[kadir_kirisci]

<p>peter is right, it costs a lot to buy chemicals but once you get them it's dirt cheap to make formulas.</p>