kadir_kirisci

Hasselblad has one of the simplest and smartest helicoid design ever. I find Nikon's more complicated.

I can take apart a blad lens and a body completely and put it back. those aren't my problems. HELIMAX-XP is a very LOW-quality grease that I don't even consider using that on anything. As I said on the first post, I want some PERSONAL EXPERIENCES. I have no problem repairing the gear, I just have problems finding grease for the helicoids. that is it. If anyone has personal experience with this, and want to share what they use, that be great. I do not need repairing tips unless you are a camera repairman. --- The only Hasselblad equipment that I cannot repair fully is the F/FE series lenses. My question isn't experience or skill based. I just do not have an access to grease that hasselblad uses. I'm just asking for an alternative.

Hello, I repair Hasselblad lenses and bodies and I'm Self-taught. So, there are many things I'm just not aware of. Hasselblad (C lenses) helicoid is one of them. I have 8-9 different types of greases that I use on other cameras. All work just FINE, except the Hasselblad lenses. After a long, long research I found 2 things. Hasselblad C lenses used Losimol brand grease and it is petroleum based, looks like a peanut butter. The problem is, I cannot order from Losimol. They simply do not reply to my emails. Whenever I use my other greases on Hasselblad helicoid's I get contact noise. Stuff I use isn't cheap or anything. Mostly made in Germany and such. I had to experiment and mix my own, it works but takes so much time prepare, apply, clean and so on. I rather spent less time on this step. Anyways, Does anyone know a grease that I can use on Hasselblad C lenses and be happy with it? I need to hear personal experiences since regular stuff basically does not work... thanks

I repair Hasselblad F Lenses and modify their blades a bit so they don't get stuck every two years. My prices are cheaper than Hasselblad and KEH. Including the modification. You can also send me a message about C and C T* lenses. I do not work on CT lenses. I also work on Rolleiflex TLR shutters, I do not work on old style ones. The ones you cannot change the speed from 250 to 500 when the camera is cocked. I don't like them, rather not work on them. You can contact me via kadirkirisci1@gmail.com I'm located in the USA and accept PayPal. Checks and such are fine as well

Hey, it's fine I like to help. I wish you mentioned the Rollie version you have, but I can make a rough guess. If you have a Tessar 3.5, this problem is very common. Back in the day, rollie messed up the optic matching. It caused many (like thousands of) rollie tessar's with unmatched taking lenses (bottom). It's not a surprised that your images are bad. Those lenses are faulty and CANNOT be repaired, they need to replaced. I own 7 rollie's 3.5 Planar, Tessar opton, Xenotar, Xenar and 2 2.8 Xenotar's. Images I get from these are excellent, my personal favorite is the 3.5 Planar which beats any rollie lens ever produced because it has no visible distortion unlike 2.8 xenotar or the planar. My Rollie Tessar OPTON is superb too, I actually love to use it for portraits. The character of the optic suits portraits very well. --- When Rollie messed up Tessar lenses so much, they produced the OPTON Tessar, which is the same thing but it guarantees that your optics are actually matched. If your lens is something else, well you are probably out of calibration. If that is the case, your Rollie needs a maintenance. There is an easy way to check this too. --- Set your focus to Infinity, check the focus, if the focus is sharp on the top lens, that means your viewing lens is calibrated. If it is soft, that thing needs some love. After taking the photo, look if the images produced at infinity is sharp. If not, your top lens is out of calibration which is much easier to fix in my opinion. hope this helps you and, I also own a Hasselblad system. 3.5 planar or the xenotar beats my 80mm C T* hands down..

Yeah, some Rollei 2.8F have those too, but they aren't available on these models. at least I cannot find any example. One RolleiF 2.8 prototype i have seen has this socket

Hello! I got this Rolleiflex 3.5 xenar recently. It's serial number is 129 5216, so it is a Rolleiflex K4A After looking at maybe more than 100 K4A bodies, I suspect that this one might be a prototype. The socket between the focusing dial and the film holder isn't available on any other K4A. I don't know what it does, but it's there. The small pin on it can be pushed and it returns. what do you guys think? Any help will be greatly appreciated

how so? can you define "easily adaptable"? How do you do that?

<p>was it that simple? I literally clicked on everything except my name.<br> thank you so much! </p>

<p>thanks for the info, </p> <p>I guess I have figured it out, <br> These adapters are M58 mount, and there are adapters like M58 to M48 and M48 to something else and goes on like this. <br> So, after getting this thing, if the lens I got is something like I don't know, let's say M48, I just need to get get a new adapter. </p> <p>I would like to have a petzval lens, they are available for my 2000 FC/M but hard to find, expensive and collectible. <br> rather than spending and hunting down a new copy, I could just take this approach </p>

<p>thanks for the info, </p> <p>I guess I have figured it out, <br> These adapters are M58 mount, and there are adapters like M58 to M48 and M48 to something else and goes on like this. <br> So, after getting this thing, if the lens I got is something like I don't know, let's say M48, I just need to get get a new adapter. </p> <p>I would like to have a petzval lens, they are available for my 2000 FC/M but hard to find, expensive and collectible. <br> rather than spending and hunting down a new copy, I could just take this approach </p>

<p>was it that simple? I literally clicked on everything except my name.<br> thank you so much! </p>

<p>Hey, <br> I couldn't find the thread created I create,<br> I don't know where reply notification are.<br> after using apug for years photo.net is like... Hard...</p> <p>If I need to introduce myself<br> I'm in my 20s, <br> I like to shoot film with my hasselblad 500c/m and 1000F. Sometimes I take my nikon S3 with me</p> <p>I'm interested in creating photo chemicals, I have several successful adapts. I'm planning to jump to wet plate in about a year or two. </p> <p>that is it. </p>

<p>Hello,<br />I was browings ebay and saw an adapter called "helicoid" for hasselblad 200/ 2000 cameras.</p> <p>Seller is Chinese, we cannot communicate at all</p> <p>Anyone here have experience with them? <br />I have hasselblad lenses, but I like to try out new lenses. So I thought it could be nice to adapt few other lenses on my Hasselblad body.</p> <p>If you could tell me what kind of lenses I can mount on that adapter, infinity to focus, adding more adapters to use common lenses like nikon / canon and some other things I just couldn't think of.</p> <p>thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks so much Bill, the numbers you gave looks like really close with the label. I see those numbers!<br /> 860 ml something ( probably reple) + 18ml starter + 122 water.<br />-<br /> If I'm going to use that much of Replenisher and just a little bit of stater, I guess I dont need that much of developer starter, am I right? I have 1.2 liters of it and if 1 liters of active solution only requires 18 ml, that means I can make close to 83 liters. <br />-<br /> After creating my first active solution, I will have about 4.2 liters of replenisher left and 1.18 liters of developer starter. I wonder why the smallest size for this product is 1.2 liters. <br /> Do you know how much replenisher to add after developing a roll of film? is there a pdf anywhere?<br /><br /><br />Why kodak makes everything this hard, is it really necessary?</p>

<p>Hello,<br /> I recently got these two but developer starter didnt come with instructions<br /> I use a Jobo processor and daylight tanks from Agfa, the ones you can use while traveling <br /> <br /> <br /> 1) <a href="https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c-41-dev-repl-lorr-tm-5l-ek-kodak-xhaz-hazsp1-832-0608-8231672/_/searchString/kodak%20flexicolor" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" data-proxy-href="proxy.php?link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.uniquephoto.com%2Fproduct%2Fc-41-dev-repl-lorr-tm-5l-ek-kodak-xhaz-hazsp1-832-0608-8231672%2F_%2FsearchString%2Fkodak%2520flexicolor&hash=04597ffe53125e2f0540535b00989084">https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c-41-dev-repl-lorr-tm-5l-ek-kodak-xhaz-hazsp1-832-0608-8231672/_/searchString/kodak flexicolor</a><br /> 2) <a href="https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-dev-starter-lorr-1-2l-6601074/_/searchString/kodak%20flexicolor" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" data-proxy-href="proxy.php?link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.uniquephoto.com%2Fproduct%2Fkodak-c-41-dev-starter-lorr-1-2l-6601074%2F_%2FsearchString%2Fkodak%2520flexicolor&hash=36d7f5eb0907662e916ed41cf6f5ce6d">https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-dev-starter-lorr-1-2l-6601074/_/searchString/kodak flexicolor</a><br /> ----<br /> <br /> <strong>Dev starer</strong> says many things on it, such as<br /> C-41, C41RA, C42B it says "S" in a blue circle and LORR at top of it.<br /> many text on it is in Chinese, no instructions nothing really useful<br /> CAT number is 660 1074<br /> --<br /> <strong>Replenisher </strong>came with some instructions, at least it is saying how to mix it.<br /> It Says C41, C41B, C41RA, LU and LORR on the box.<br /> instructions are basically like this<br /> It says 4 liters of water, mix A --- stir --- mix B --- Stir ---- Mix C and you are good to go.<br /> - Cat number is 823 1672<br /> --<br /> <br /> If I'm right (and probably I am not) I need to mix these two together to get a working C41 developer.<br /> That will give me total of 6.2 liters of chemical.<br /> Is that solution going to be one shot? If not, how do I make it fresh again? I counlt find any PDF's for this combo.<br /> <br /> Can I get a working solution with only Replenisher box? If yes, how so?is there any PDF or tutorial about that?<br /> -<br /> <br /> just tell me what to do, link me some tutorials or pdf and please help me out. because starer didint come with anything and I cannot read Chinese <img title="Cry :cry:" src="http://www.apug.org/forum/styles/apug/smilies/cry.png" alt=":cry:" /><br /> <br /> thanks</p>

<p>you guys are the best!<br> thank you very much for all that info, all of you!<br> <br /><br />As you know young people are starting to get interested on film more and more but our only problem is there is no information about it online.<br> <br />I believe posts like this helps many people around the world, so thank you very much for creating a small database like this</p> <p>highly apprenticed! </p>

<p>so, if I buy starter and reph, I can use them to develop my film?</p>

<p>3 minutes at 100F? Okay, i will give that one a try!<br />thank you very much </p>

<p>I been looking thro. B&H adroma, freestyle and unique photo recently to find a C41 dev only.</p> <p>I don't want to buy 1 liter Unicolor C-41 Powder or whatever.<br /> I have fix, bleach, stop baths, stab but I do now have the DEV.</p> <p>I was looking at various things online like this one<br /> https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c-41-dev-repl-lorr-tm-5l-ek-kodak-xhaz-hazsp1-832-0608-8231672/_/searchString/Kodak%20%20flexicolor<br /> -<br> https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805/_/searchString/c-41%20developer</p> <p>But I'm not really sure if this is a developer,<br /> I found some fuji hunt stuff, developer replenisher and all that stuff. websites are really outdates about film chemicals and usually there is no information what so ever...</p> <p>This is basically what I need,<br /> I want to buy a C-41 developer (only) in like many liters. 5-10 I do not care. <br /> If you can provide me a link for C-41 developer, I be so happy. I'm young and missed that film era so I do not have much experience. <br /> When the product says replenisher on it, i get really confused because I do not really know what does "reple" do... There are things like bleach reple. I dont know if that works like a regular bleach or its something similar to a bleach. Same for fixer and anything else. When I see the word replenisher, i don't know what it does.<br /> I have a Jobo CPE 2 system with drums and tanks<br /><br /><br /> your help will be highly appreciated, help this young folk <br /> thanks!</p> <p>edit:<br /> what is this thing?<br />https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-dev-starter-lorr-1-2l-6601074/_/searchString/c-41%20developer</p>

<p>Hello,<br> I recently started to develop my own C41 film, I made all the chemicals at home and they work pretty well except for the bleach I made.</p> <p>this is the bleach formula I use<br> <strong><em>Potassium Ferricyanide</em> 80gr</strong><br> <strong><em>Potassium Bromide</em> 20 gr </strong><br> <strong>and water to make it 1 liter.</strong><br> ---<br> But my negatives are coming out with green or red dye on them.<br> If I develop Fuji fujicolor/ superia or C series, negatives are Greenish, if i develop Ektar they come out in Red color.<br> When I scan negatives as a image and transfer them to photoshop when I invert them, I get great colors. But I do not like the way my negatives look. <br> <br />---<br> I was wondering if there is any way I can buy bleach or even blix from a store?<br> Or if anyone can provide me a formula that be great too.<br> <br />There is an another formula I found online<br> it contains Ferric Ammonium EDTA or Iron EDTA and i cannot find both that in art craft's website. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello,<br /><br />recently I found some kind of a tutorial called E6(-).<br />Basically, you develope your slide with BW chemicals first, and than color chemicals.<br />After that, tutorial says you get slides! It's not the highest quality but I think it looks better than Cross or BW developed slide film.<br /><br /><br />Here is the link<br /><br />http://www.instructables.com/id/Develop-Slide-Film-With-C-41-Chemicals-AKA-E-6-/?ALLSTEPS<br /><br /><br /><br />I tried so search this tecnique online but this is the only source I can find.<br />I was wondering if Rodinal developer was fine with this tecnique. <br />Does anybody know more about this, any other links, sources, examples and such?<br />Thanks!</p>

<p>I send them a message asking for type of scanner they use, they gave me all the information I need.<br /> I'm pasting it here so we all can learn what is going on. Because I fell like he just copied and pasted this too, so its nothing secret or anything.</p> <h3 align="left">Yes we can. We do not have a printer in the conventional sense of the word, but use the traditional wet process, using light sensitive AgX type silver halide paper and the RA-4 developing process. In other words, our prints are made on photographic paper, in the traditional manner. We use Noritsu photo lab equipment exclusively. For scanning, we use the dedicated scanners which are connected to the machines permanently, by way of fiber optic cables for data and a SCSI-II cable for control functions. The scanners by the way, are unlike those with which you may be familiar, in that they have much more robust construction, and superior optics, with the electronics in them, weight is around 70 to 100 pounds. Like all Noritsu equipment, they are beautifully made, and designed for continuous use. We have our machines set to maximum resolution; it takes longer of course, but we feel it is worth it to the customer. We do not own, nor are we in the market for an ink jet, or digital dry printer, as this is not who we are. We concentrate on low cost, high quality traditional photography, primarily with customers who use film, although we can also print from most digital media, and of course, we make Picture CDs from customer's film when they desire.</h3> <p>I don't know much about Ra-4 processing, I never done it. <br />I'm guessing photographic paper is much cheaper than already cut paper. <br />Also, I guess (i might be wrong) there is a kind of machine that once you send the data it does the prints for you.<br> Because If there is somebody doing printings by hand, I believe it would be so hard (I mean you are going to do 360 of them for 40 dollars).</p> <p>I always thought that color RA was so expensive to do that is why many labs are just using printers. I guess I'm wrong again.<br> Once I thought they were printing many pictures on a big paper and cutting it in required sizes. <br /><br />Oh well, I learn so much from all of you. Thanks for you sharing your experiences and opinions.<br /><br />I'm only 22 years old and trying to set my home lab. I get mail orders and stuff and sometimes teach others how to develop film and such (I'm not a pro or anything) </p>

<p>This is the cheapest photo paper I can find online<br> Each sheet is $0.047, if you get 360 prints, it costs $16.92<br> http://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature%E2%84%A2-4%22-X-6%22-Professional-Glossy-Photo-Paper.product.100043843.html</p> <p>I don't know how much Ink would cost but lets say 5 bucks? <br />$21.92<br> the price they charge is $42<br> 42-22= 20 bucks.<br> With that 20 bucks they need to develop 10 rolls and ship everything back.<br> Shipping cost is $2.2 dollars, lets round it and say 2 bucks.<br> with that reaming 18 dollars they need to develop 10 rolls and pay for electric and such.<br> <br /><br />each roll costs 1.8 dollars to the buyer. <br /><br /><br> But If i ask the same service for BW, prices go up like 2 times.<br> That is why I'm confused. How can I be able to process BW so cheap but not C41, and they are the opposite way...</p> <p>I went to Turkey last summer, They charged me 2 Dollars for C41 developing and 9 dollars for BW... <br /><br />I just don't get it, because BW is much simpler and cheaper to do but costs like 2 times when you ask somebody else to do it for you </p>

<p>Hello,<br> recently I found a listing on ebay, USA seller develop 10 rolls of C41 film for $41.99.<br> They do 4x6 printings of each frame, scan them and send you everything. Shipping is free.<br> (so its like 360 printings in total!)</p> <p>That means, $4.2 for each roll, with scanning and printings.</p> <p>I'm wondering, how can it be so cheap? Is there something I do not know about C41.<br> I make my own chemicals and there is no way I can give this service for this price.<br> I can develop them for that price but I cannot do printings. I would just lose money, not make.</p> <p>Also, everywhere I know charges more for B&W film. For my case, my BW developing cost is much cheaper. That doesn't make any sense to me.<br> <br />I guess I'm doing something wrong because my costs are backwards.<br> <br />Is there a such a C41 formula which makes everything cheaper?<br /><br />The Bleech formula I use is expensive, Fixer is expensive, developer is pricier than BW.</p> <p>And If I try to use those C41 kits available, my costs will be a skyrocket...</p> <p>I guess I'm missing something here...</p> <p>Please help me out</p>