robert_hill11

I have a white Canon EF 2X extender. They seem to only come in the white/beige color..does that nean they have flourite based lens elements?

I use both..T90 fun, surprised sometimes hope smart it is. My 1v is not plastic...one could pound tent stakes with it...

I have the YN-E3-RT, 2 YN600EX-RT, and a few YNE3-RX for the YN568EXII's..they work great..AND I get Group mode on my 1Ds MkIII! The best thing about the Yonguo line is AF assist from the transmitter..Canon REALLY should have included it with their transmitter...

sRGB??? Why? with the new 2K and 4K monitors use a wider gamut...as for ink..I refill the carts on my pixma pro 100...refill kits are VERY reasonable compared to the $130 robbery of new ones.

Sous vide cookers....works great!

My 2 cents on the original question...do all of you students reload the film canisters? I have seen this from the light proofing strips on the canisters, when they get worn they can actually scratch the emulsion side of the film...looks too linear to be a agitation issue.

Really???? How so, if anything learning shutter/aperture and ISO/ASA settings from using film has made me a MUCH better photographer, because EACH SHOT COUNTS!! No chimping. Besides, digital cameras have issues as well, try to do looooong exposures on a digital without the sensor overheating and creating hot spots...and some film cameras, good ones I might add DO NOT NEED BATTERIES!!! And the first instruction most photographic instuctors tell you to do is put the camera on MANUAL....now why is that??? Please, don't be so one sided, Art is in the eye of the beholder...not the process..

only 4 minutes for blix? I thought with that kit, at 102F that should be 6.5 minutes....

<p>Good Day, when using a 2x extender, should the hood that came with the lens be used? Are hoods designed for the largest focal length of a lens?</p>

<p>Black please!!! And I'm pretty sure it is all marketing....Unless "thermal" issues ONLY effect Canon products....I have a 80-200mm f/2.8 magic drainpipe...and it works just fine in the heat....</p>

<p>The 2 I currently have....1n and 3....looking real hard at a 1v tho...</p> <p>Yes, I REALLY like film...</p>

<p>Good Day, this is a follow on to a question I posted earlier.. I purchased an EOS-3, that DOES support ETTL. Now, for some reason when I attempt to use a wireless flash trigger, the YN622C system, everything seems to work fine until I trip the shutter...camera locks up and I have to turn the transmitter off to get the mirror to drop and camera control back. Works "ok" in the legacy mode, but one would think with devices with "ETTL" stamped all over them, ETTL cameras would work. Does ETTL II even work off camera??</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I have actually taken the YN622C-TX off camera with a Canon off camera shoe and cord. I have used the HSA-2 on the camera with a speedlite in the hot shoe then...the cord... then a Canon shoe to plug the cord into with the YN622C-TX in that hot shoe. You would probably want to get the newer HSA-3 hot shoe. These pieces can be had used fairly cheaply.</p>

<p>The 430EZ works just fine in the camera's hot shoe...but when I use the YN622C-TX with the speedlite in the hot shoe of the YN622C transceiver, I have to put the YN622C-TX in "legacy" Fn 04 mode to get the 430EZ OR a YN500EX to even fire!! Rather frustrating that the radio devices will not "dumb down" to standard Canon TTL mode...btw....the YN500EX will not fire at all when in the camera's hot shoe. Same result from my T90 as well....</p>

<p>Good Day All, I am not sure if this is the right forum, but here goes. I have a EOS-1n and am trying to get the YN622C-TX with a YN622C to work in the standard TTL mode....for some reason, I have to use "Legacy" mode, which pretty much turns it into a plain trigger with remote power settings ability. Now all of the manuals/guides etc state that this body is a type B and the YN622C-TX SHOULD revert to standard TTL with this body type. Any ideas? Even when used with my 430EZ, it will not give me ANY form of TTL...justs blasts away at full power.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

For C41 I use the ANOVA water heater to keep my water bath at the right temp...bout $120 used on ebay...works great!

<p>I have this scanner...and the Pro100 printer to go with it...The software that came with it is....."odd"...not sure what is going on with the exposure levels. I bought a copy of VueScan...much better results...be careful though, while VueScan is pretty cool...the documentation is wanting. But once you have it dialed in...and save the profile you created, it is a workhorse...</p>

<p>...If only Canon made a medium format film camera...sigh. I Have a Canoscan 9000MkII and a PixmaPro100. As disks are dirt cheap, I will scan at least at 4800...and play with "9600" DPI...my cut on this is...more information is always better...</p> <p>Now those Mamiya's are catching my eye.....</p>

<p>Good Day All, a quick question...should agitation be done at the closest temperature of the chemistry? Or does the drop in temperature matter? As an example, the Unicolor C-41 kit recommends the developer at 102F...should I keep my tank submerged in the water bath the entire time while agitating? Or will taking it out of the water bath to agitate, rotate matter?<br> I have been looking at videos of the Jobo, etc devices and I would imagine that as the tank is rotated, 1/2 of the tank is being cooled as it spins..</p> <p>And for those looking for a cheap water bath controller:<br> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKPBXM4?psc=1</p> <p>Got a used one for $100</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Good Day All...is Steve Still in business? I have sent my t90 to him over a month ago for the EEE fix and I have not heard anything back to my emails or voice mails I have left at the shop's phone number.</p>

<p>Errr.....for $20 you can get the Unicolor kit....Blixer....just add water. Why bother cooking up your own caustics, when they have done the chemistry for you?</p>

<p>These would look sooo much better on Portra......160 or 400......in a real FD body...</p>

<p>I'm with Alan on this one.....I have 2 t90's both working like tanks...and both PRECISION instruments...at 1/4000ths of a second...let me say that again... one four thousands of a second....</p> <p>And you want to BANG it on ANYTHING???</p> <p>Send it to Steve...he does good work...lenses too!!</p>