Recipes for Pulling Film

[michael_peregrine]

<p>I request the lab to push film all the time, but today I screwed up and shot a roll of HP5 400 at 100 and I'm trying to get into processing at home. Anyone know of good recipes for pulling? It's weird how I can't seem to find any online, and mass dev chart only seems to cover pushing (?). If it's just a matter of cutting the processing time, how much would I cut for two stops? Thanks much.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>What developer are you planning to use?</p>

[michael_peregrine]

<p>I'll use Rodinal.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Rodinal 1:50 for 9 mins. You just needed to look for it.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Peter gave you the time.</p>

[michael_peregrine]

<p>Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.</p>

[evan_goulet]

<p>A halfway decent rule of thumb is to subtract 20% of the developing time per stop pulled. And that 20% gets applied incrementally: <br />Assume 10 is the starting point for your film at box speed.<br>

1-Stop Pull: 10-(0.2)10 = 8 min<br>

2-Stop Pull: 8-(0.2)8 = 6.4 min</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Next time looking for something special like that, just select the film and 'any' developer. It's easier to just look at the exposure column. That's all I did.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>when I found myself with asa 100 film AND OLD Cameas<br>

i LOOKED on the massive developing chart and found "recipes" for developing<br>

asa 100 film as asa /iso 50.<br>

the csmera was a 1936 argus AF.<br>

I was also given some asa/iso 100 127 film and have some old " minature" 16 exp 127 cameras..<br>

I also have my wife's brownie hawkeye.<br>

all will work better if the film is exposed at the lower speed/<br>

as said rodinal is a very good choice.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>If the photographs are important I would recommend shooting a test roll of HP5+ at E.I. 100 first to help arrive at a suitable time. BTW, if lighting was harsh, pulling the film can often help tame the contrast.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>You may be fine with normal development. B&W film can handle two stops of overexposure pretty easily. It just gives a denser negative and requires a longer exposure on the enlarger when you make a print. A lot of people routinely rate their 400 film at 200.<br /><br />Whether there's a need to pull could come down to your metering and exposure. If you normally have negatives on the thin (underexposed) side, then normal processing for this role is almost certanly going to be OK. If you normally have negatives on the dense (overexposed) side already, then maybe you do want to pull.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>Push is more common, as it is easy to be in a dark place with a low speed film, less common a bright place with high speed.</p>

<p>Most B&W film should easily take one stop over. I would try a one stop pull, to give a better chance that it works. That depends a little on the subject.</p>

[michael_peregrine]

<p>Thanks for all the responses. I actually did a two stop push development on a roll last night that came out decent, but looking a bit underexposed. This is a trial-and-error process for me at this point, until I get a feel for the developer and the process. I just ordered some fresh Rodinal for this project, and I'm planning to do the next pushed roll by stand developing. I'm anxious to see how it comes out.<br>

<br /> I still haven't worked on the pulled roll, as I have two shots left and it's medium format, so I'm being picky about what I use the film on. And I definitely want to use the Rodinal on it.<br>

<br /> By the way - - I found a terrific darkroom app for my phone that automatically adjusts developer times depending on the circumstances. I love this thing. Works great.</p>