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Thinking of buying used Leica.


gus_gus1

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<p>It's a beautiful camera. I had one in 0.85X, sold it only due to financial distress. It's slower speeds are utterly silent, with out the buzzing of the clockwork delay found on the mechanical shutter M cameras. You get up to 30 seconds of timed shutter speeds on AUTO.</p>

<p>I do prefer longer lenses, and I found the 0.85X RF was sufficiently accurate to focus a 135 f/3.4 properly.<br>

The downside of the 0.85x finder is that the 35mm framelines are hard to see without scanning. I wear glasses. If you don't wear glasses, you may well be able to see all of the 35mm framelines.</p>

<p>The features that non-owners look down upon - namely the AE and the TTL flash are very useful features.</p>

<p>When you are shooting fast, in varied light conditions, it is a great plus to be able to lock in the exposure settings by pushing the shutter halfway down. Plus, unlike the M6TTL, you will actually get shutter speed readings in the finder, at 1/2 stop intervals.</p>

<p>I used the Metz adapters and used the Metz flashes with my camera. The advantage of the Metz system is that the "master" attached to the camera will control multiple Metz flash units for TTL multi-unit flash control.<br>

Also, with the high speed flash synch (HSS), you can shoot from 1/250 up to 1/1000 with the Metz 40 MZ 3i flash unit and SCA 3083 module. No other film Leica can manage HSS flash - not even the M6TTL. The electronics that control HSS are in the camera.</p>

<p>The downsides: the older electrical film speed reader was unreliable for me. Sometimes it would lose the film speed entirely. The optical reader is a free upgrade from Leica. Downside to the optical reader is that it uses IR light. If you love shooting IR film, then don't upgrade the film reader.</p>

<p>All Leica finders beyond the M3 may white out the RF patch in backlighted situations. I spent the $600 at Leica USA to upgrade to the MP finder modification. It still flared out (maybe less so than before), so I don't recommend the upgrade. The viewfinder as it is has coated partly polarized glass, so the RF patch and the surrounding viewfinder have extremely good contrast.</p>

<p>The dial in the back for exposure compensation is truly awkward. You'll never use it. Use the shutter button halfway down exposure lock instead. You can save money by buying a generic half case that doesn't have the special M7 cutout in the back.</p>

<p>If you use the Leica Motor M, you'll find that the camera will jam with a standard cable release (I use the Nikon AR-18 cable release). Don Goldberg and I figured out that you need to cut the shaft of the cable release to a 6mm maximum extension to prevent jamming the shutter.</p>

<p>It lacks a self timer. If you want to include yourself in the picture, buy a spring wound Kopil timer. These are readily available on eb*y, and you can adjust the maximum throw of the shaft to be 6mm.</p>

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<p>if you have no compatible lenses then what you are buying is a (very pretty) shelf-ornament: something which has no use at all until you get a lens. The only good reason I can see to do this is if you are being offered an *extremely* compelling deal on the body. Film cameras are essentially light-proof boxes which hold the film in the right position relative to the lens, and it's those two components that matter. I realise this is heresy to many Leica owners: sorry!</p>

<p>Of course you may already have compatible lenses, or be being offered a really good deal, but I'd at least think about which to buy first.</p>

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<p>I am one of the many who hold that a finder "upgrade" is essential. Before I had the finder work done I found my M6 unusable. It's your decision, of course, but until you get a lens the camera body will sit idle. And earlier model can be had with lens for as much money.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>if you have no compatible lenses then what you are buying is a (very pretty) shelf-ornament:</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>I disagree. A cheap adapter and a Canon 50mm f/1.4 LTM lens will give the user wonderful quality photographs.</p>

<p>If you absolutely NEED aperture priority then the M7 is your only option. If you don't, I would strongly recommend the M6 or M6 TTL instead. The M7 can be a bit more troublesome and needs a battery to work at all shutter speeds. </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>"needs a battery to work at all shutter speeds" <strong><em>Jamie R.</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Just in case his statement is misunderstood, Jamie probably means to "use the full range of shutter speeds". <br /> It does have Leica's highly appreciated <strong>"limp home" mode.</strong> Where two mechanical shutter speeds of 60th & 125th function properly in the event the batteries die on you. <br /> Also keep in mind, that "Bulb" does require battery power to open & close the shutter curtains.</p>

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  • 5 months later...

<p>I just got my first Leica, a 62 yr old M3 and 50 Summicron Collapsible. It looks new. Seriously, there is not one mark on it. The guy stored it for like 15 yrs after he bought it hardly used and the price was good: $1100.</p>

<p>I'm getting used to the focus, which I find not easy. I have both a diopter and a magnifier, that helps a lot, except it makes the camera look like it has an erection on the rear side. Whether I continue to use both I'll see. (By the way, my eyesight is not bad at all)</p>

<p>But I have already some very nice photos so for me it has been a good purchase, well worth it.</p>

<p>I'll have it CLA'd soon. It likely needs a lube after all those years in storage altho there's nothing hanging up now. But still... So the OP might want to factor that in as a possible added expense if it's an older camera, mine will be $285 from Sherry Krauter, recommended by many here.</p>

<p>And it's a beautiful camera...</p>

<p>Good luck with your choice!</p>

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