times without hypo-clear

[bruce_erickson1]

<p>Am about to develop a roll of tmy film but discovered I am out of hypo-clearing agent. Kodak recommends 20 to 30 minutes with complete change of water every 5 min. without hypo-clear. However, when I rinse I let the container fill then immediately dump it, then repeat several times. It seems to me I would not have to rinse 20 to 30 minutes, but more like 10 to 15. What is your experience? </p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Effectively any fixer with sodium sulfite has hypo-clear built in. I have been using the ilford method for rinsing for years with no ill side effects.</p>

<p>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washing_%28photography%29</p>

[bethe_fisher]

<p>I use the Ilford method for washing, with some addition. Theirs: add water, invert 5 times, dump; add water, invert 10 times, dump; add water, invert 20 times, dump; hang to dry. Mine is twice theirs (two with 5 inversions, two with 10, etc…), using distilled water (I have a well and chunky water), I also add a short soak in another added filling with a few drops of Photo-Flo. </p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Ditto the Ilford method. Use rapid fixer and you don't need long wash times for film, especially thinner emulsion films. The traditional method may be appropriate for older style emulsions with hardening fixer - I'll find out when I use some of the Foma and other films I have stored up.</p>

<p>Like Bethe I used a slightly modified version of the Ilford method when I lived in a rural home with well water from a limestone basin. I had to switch to filtered bottled or distilled water after nearby fracking stirred up too much sediment. I doubled Ilford's recommended inversions and added a fourth tankful with distilled water and a droplet of photographic wetting agent for the final rinse before drying.</p>

<p>So far, so good. I think I switched to Ilford's method for washing film around 1999 or 2000 and my negs from then look good, even those that spent a few years in non-air conditioned/non-climate controlled storage. These were 35mm and 120 Tri-X, T-Max 100 and 400, FP4+, HP5+, Delta 3200, Efke R120, Agfa APX 100 & 400, maybe a couple other types.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Haven't used hypo clear in years. After dumping the fix, I fill the tank with running water (at about 70-75 degrees F, same as whatever temperature I developed at). I dump and refill and repeat several time for the first minute or two. Then I let it sit under the running water for about 20 minutes, then dry.</p>

[john_enea2]

<p>i did my first 4 rolls without hypo clear today. i changed nothing excpet skipping the hypo clear and everything looks just the same. i use the Ilford wash, 10, 20 30 and 40 but added a 50 turn wash just because.</p>

[bruce_erickson1]

<p>Thanks you guys, very helpful. </p>

[glen_h]

<p>Use rapid (ammonium thiosulfate based) fixer, and don't use hypo clearing.<br>

If you use sodium based fixer, you should probably use hypo clearing.<br>

I probably way overwash my film at about 10 minutes after Ilford Rapid Fixer.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>Another vote for the Ilford method. I've used it now for 20 years and have never needed to use hypo-clear. It's very efficient in terms of washing and the volume of water used.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Bruce, it depends on what fixer you're using. If you're using a hardening fixer (Kodak Fixer, Kodafix, etc.) you can't use the Ilford method. It only works safely with a non-hardening fixer (Ilford Hypam, Ilford Rapid Fixer, etc.). Hardening fixers greatly reduce the rate at which hypo can diffuse out of the emulsion.<br>

You can't tell by eye if film is properly washed or not. You need to use a "hypo test" solution. If you don't wash it properly, it will slowly self-destruct.</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>It is exactly like John Shriver says. For the regular non hardening rapid fixers you can use the Ilford method.<br>

An hypo clearing agent is very effective for washing out fiber based photo papers. Here you can reduce the washing time from 60 minutes to 20 minutes when using a H.C.A.<br>

For film and using above mentioned fixers it is a waste of money and effort.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>It used to be (maybe still is) that Kodak Rapid Fixer comes with a separate bottle of hardener.<br>

Is the wash time different if you do, or don't, use the hardener?<br>

<br />I have been using the Ilford Rapid Fixer, which doesn't come with one.<br>

I have some non-RC paper, but haven't used any in recent years.<br>

I also have some Perma-Wash that I haven't used.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>If you don't mix in the hardener for Kodak Rapid Fixer, you have a non-hardening fixer, and can use the Ilford wash method. Ilford Rapid Fixer is non-hardening.</p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>Ilford rapid fixer and a mix of Ilford method and running water. I do 2-3x10 inversions and dump at start then forget about the film under running water for 10 minutes. probably overkill but it works.</p>

[bruce_erickson1]

<p>I use Ilford rapid fixer.</p>