Fogging developer

[robert_ante]

I want to replace re-exposure to light chemically. However, the literature I have consulted are vague about the process. Some (Foma)

seem to imply that chemicals simply replace light and that second developer is still needed; others seem to imply that Kodak fd-70

replace the need for redevelopment. I would appreciate any help from anyone using chemical re-exposure, including the chemical

formulas used. Thanks.

[larrydressler]

<p>Correct You can replace the chemical fogging with real light but you will still need a second developer. There are a few speciality films out there that are direct positive but those have an ISO of under 1.</p>

[john_enea2]

<p>I assume you are talking of B&W reversal? I use Iron Out! This is a rust remover that contains sodium hydrosulfite aka sodium dithionite. 1 to 2 tsp for every roll and it is one shot. The stuff dies on completion, but it does smell pretty! You can get this at Lowes hardware store. The "Iron Out" step replaces flashing (re exposing), developing and fixing. It really simplifies everything. you MUST mix this stuff with distilled water as it will react to impurities in tap water.</p>

<p>I posted a thread on APUG talking about my reversal processing using iron out. You can use any B&W film, but the best results by far are with traditional grain film, not Tmax or the likes. </p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>I second what john said. It really simplifies and speeds up development due to combined steps.</p>

 

[larrydressler]

<p>I will have to try that John. Temp and times for this miracle mix please.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>It's not a temp or time thing.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>1 to 2 tsp for every roll and it is one shot</p>

</blockquote>

<p>What ever temp you are working with. It goes to completion in a couple of mins.</p>

 

[larrydressler]

<p>Thanks.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Larry, that post I did on reversals in your orwo flikr group also has the details.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>OK as it was the UN54 I wanted to do this with. Thanks.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Also know that this step is not specific to film brand / type.</p>

<p>John: Sorry, it looks like I hopped all into your answer. Opps...</p>

<p> </p>

[john_enea2]

<p>i gotta admit that I stole the recipe from peter, based on the Orwo 54 thread</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>It ain't theft if it was left there to take..... :)</p>

<p>I made a point to make some sort of record of what I was doing. When I started looking 7 years ago (because some idiot showed me an 8x10 from DR5), there was nothing but really stale info and a ton of misconceptions. It took a while to figure what actually worked and what was bs....or at least misunderstood. I'm glad anyone has made use of it.</p>

<p>Back to the OP, stannous (tin) chloride when added to a regular developer (your pick) will fog the film. There is a magic amount to add depending on the developer. You will have to test this with what ever you use and you will need to find a 'time' to get full black. I used .04 of a gram for 175ml of Dektol 1:3. I drum process, so 175ml was all I needed. I takes a bit more time to get some density, but never as good as "Iron Out".</p>

<p>I sourced mine off ebay from England, as those pesky Americans don't let me have too much fun up here...lol I picked up 250g for pretty cheap. Lifetime supply I guess.</p>

 

[peterbcarter]

<p>On the note of using IronOut vs flashing: It may appear that your reversals are too dark when using IronOut. The fact is, this fogger is so complete you probably just need to develop more. Flashing is a bit of an art form and it's hard to compete with the consistency of a chemical fogger.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Rob, you didn't say where you were. In Canada you can get the stuff at Canadian Tire. I remember chatting with a lad from England (I forget who now) and he said it is available over there now.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>I'll shut up now.... ;)</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>:-)</p>

[robert_ante]

<p>I want to thank all who responded to my call. I have been developing tri-x reversal movie film (7266) for some time in D-19. The process I have been using requires re-exposure plus a fogging agent. I am familiar with the Orwo sheets, the Foma sheets and writings in various reference books but, as I noted in my first note, there was always a certain vagueness about when a second developer is needed and when not needed. I didn't want to experiment with 100' of film. Years ago I did reversal 35mm b/w slides. I want to begin again using 120 format but wanted to avoid the second light exposure.<br>

Thanks again, everybody</p>

[glen_h]

https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/j6.pdf