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Probably A Very Stupid Thought


malcolm_denton

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<p>with fil developer, use a strong cocentrate.<br>

Rodinal for slow films and something like HC-110 foir all films<br>

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/<br>

follow suggestions and mix JUST what you need.<br>

for paper developer, IF THERE ARE NO CHILDREN AROUND<br>

and other solutions in trays.<br>

place a sheet of saran or other plastic food wrap<br>

over the tray, this will extend the life by 1-2 days.<br>

better than trying to SAVE solutions by pouring in a bottle and adding air.</p>

<p>In Olden days when large tanks of developer were used they added a floating lid and developers were used and re-used<br>

for weeks and longer. Look up panathermic 777 for a read on thet.</p>

 

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<p>Several years ago I ordered a liquid film developer concentrate from an overseas seller. It was the winter both at the seller's location and here in the Northeast. The developer arrived frozen solid. I e-mailed the manufacturer. They told me to wait until the weather warmed up and order again. If you are a little handy you can make up your own PC-TEA. PC-TEA has very low toxicity, is inexpensive to make, contains no sodium sulfite and lasts indefinitely.</p>
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<p>Freezing darkroom chemicals, mixing half a bag of powdered developer, using 30-year-old developer fround in a friend's closet, etc., are all what I consider examples of being penny wise and pound foolish. Darkroom chemicals simply don't cost enough to be worth the trouble. When you try to stretch a $5 gallon of developer and it's gone bad or not mixed properly, etc., and you've got two rolls of film in the tank, you've ruined $6-7 worth of film.</p>
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<p>carefully sealed developer such as old D-76 in cans, it it has not turned brown<br>

it worth trying, But if it is important use fresh developer.<br>

as said the liquid developers like HC 110 and rodinal last a long time<br>

years ago I had a bottle of Versatol ( liquid developer for both film and paper)<br>

that went very smelly and bad. ( partially filled glass bottle)<br>

so all concentrated liquid developers do not have a long shelf life.<br>

My 40 year old bottle of Metol ( pictol) looks ok. but I do not open it and look inside.<br>

the packets that Kodak sold may be sealed, but a pinhole might cause the contents to absormb moisture or air and oxidize. If you entend to try using old chemicals, they may work OK<br>

but keep something else on hand .</p>

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<p>The stories about Rodinal are much more than urban myths - it really does not appear to die.<br>

And,as a long time user of Dektol print developer, and being inconvenienced many times by its tendency to 'settle out' in cold temperatures, I tried an experiment -freeze and rethaw it.<br>

I still have the bottle , 10 years later : it is a very light straw color , and I have no doubt it is still fine.</p>

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<p>I know this is a monochrome forum. But just for the sake of answering malcolm's question. In the days when I used to belong to the 'Colour Reversal Club' (whatever happened to that?). I used to make my own E6 slide processing chemicals from raw chemicals supplied through the CRC. I often used to freeze my unused chemicals in convenient sized batches. As far as I can remember I never had anything untoward happen when using them for processing! They could have been frozen for over 6 months in some instances. I have currently, just for curiosity, a bottle of 'Parodinal' in the freezer, not refrigerator, that has been in there for over a year. I will take it out one day and test an unimportant film with it just to see how it behaves. As has been said there are chemicals available, take 510Pyro or Hypercat, my two standard developers, and Rodinal, that have a very long shelf life. So why go to the trouble, except for the curiosity factor since cost does not really come into it.<br>

Dennis</p>

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