magnus_annemark Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>This is my first post in this forum. I have been doing bw photography and processing on/off for about a year now using way old d76 that my father handed down (the price tag on the box said 2 or 3 swedish crowns which is about 50 cents U.S. so it's old for sure). I'm about to run out of developer now and I'm thinking of switching to liquid developer since it seems easier than mixing D76 (not that it's actually hard...I'm lazy i guess).<br /><br />I discussed it with the guy in my local photo store and he told me that Tmax developer is the best for amateurs. I asked him about Rodinal (R09) and he said that it needs to be diluted so much that it's hard to get exact results if you're not a pro. I asked him about HC-110 and he said that it's only good for pushing a LOT and also needs a hich dilution. I've read a few good things on the forums here about HC-110 but maybe it's like he says that it's better if you have experience and better means of diluting the developer.<br /><br />I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this. Remember, I'm a beginner and I don't have the means (or maybe the patience) of exact amount- and temeperature measuring. I read somewhere else on the forum that TMax is horrible with HP5+, which is what eventually put me off, since I was planning on buying about a dozen rolls of the stuff. It was quite cheap from macodirect.de...<br /><br />Magnus</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Go with the HC-110. Get a medicine syringe to measure it out. I think your photo guy is full of something that makes crops grow.</p> <p>http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/<br> http://mysite.verizon.net/fowler/photo/hc110.htm<br> http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=&Developer=HC-110&mdc=Search</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean_yves_mead Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 HC-110 is easy to prepare - just get hold of a syringe to measure out the syrup (I buy packs of new-but-expired disposables off eBay), and a measuring jug for making it up to your desired working concentration. It's cheap, it's widely available, it lasts forever, and development times and temperatures can be found for almost every film out there. Frankly you need to find a photo store with smarter employees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_1577653 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <blockquote> <p>I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this.</p> </blockquote> <p>Yep, <em>everyone </em>has an opinion on this! :) </p> <p>People will tend to recommend what they know. My sense is that as far as a first timer is concerned, there are really more similarities than differences among the popular developers out there, and you really can't go wrong with any of them. So don't sweat it.</p> <p>But I will join the bandwagon for HC-110. That is what I started with a couple years ago and am most familiar with. It is a good all around developer that has been around since the dark ages (Ansel Adams used it). What I like most about it is that it basically lasts forever - which is great if you are only an occasional developer like me. It is also very inexpensive considering how many rolls you will be able to develop with it. Despite some opinions to the contrary it is very easy to prepare. As mentioned above the key is to get hold of a syringe or something similar that allows you to measure out small volumes of the concentrate. I use a "baby syringe" that I obtained for free just by asking for one at my grocery store pharmacy.</p> <p>Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_r_lewis Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Magnus, <br> Along with everyone else, HC-110 is a great all around developer which can be tweaked with variable times. The developer is a heavy syrup, so be sure to rinse out the measuring device with water to add to the developer.<br> Warmest regards,<br> David R. Lewis</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>HC-110 is great value, and the syrup is very stable. At least here, a 3ml children's medicine dosing syringe is easy to get, that's what I use to measure small quantities of syrup.<br> If you're willing to pay a good bit more for a "higher performance" liquid developer, consider Ilford DD-X. It also has very good shelf life, not as eternal as HC-110, however.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christer_almqvist2 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I think your developer choice should be made dependent on whether you shoot 35mm, MF or LF.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I measure my U.S. concentrate HC110 with a Ink Refill Syringe from inksupply.com<br> <a href="http://www.inksupply.com/product-details.cfm?pn=MIS-SYRINGE">http://www.inksupply.com/product-details.cfm?pn=MIS-SYRINGE</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj8281 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Another vote for HC110, I like it and use it. I also like and use D76. I have not yet tried rodinal but it has been around the longest so it has at least a few followers. I think it will be my next developer that I try. I have tried Tmax developer and I did not care for it, too expensive for what you get. If I had a choice between Tmax and D76, it would be D76 everyday of the week. As others have said if you go with HC110, get a syringe of some sort, easy to use that way. I get my syringes from the local hospital, I like the 10mL ones, the 5mL ones will work if I can't get the 10mL.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Oh and concerning U.S. vs EU developer last I checked it is all the U.S. concentrate now around the world.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek_kennedy Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>What I like about HC-110 is how cheap it is to use. Not including shipping, I found the other day that it costs only 3.8 cents per ml - so thats pretty cheap!</p> <p>Ease of use is the other - as mentioned here a syringe to allow you to draw out what little you need, mix it with water and you're done. I also place marbles in the container as I use the syrup to keep out the air, as HC-110 has a good shelf life.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leighb Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I've used Rodinal for over 50 years and have never experienced any problems getting consistent results.</p> <p>I generally use the 1:50 dilution, so one bottle lasts a long time.</p> <p>The trick is to buy two graduates, one 10ml and one 500ml, or other suitable ratios.</p> <p>- Leigh</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Leigh I use 1-100 so I find the Syringe is also great for Rodinal. The drug store also had rubber stoppers with a hole in the center and a cap. I break the HC-110 and Rodinal down into smaller cough medicine bottles and install the rubber caps then as I need them I just stick the syringe in the top and suck out the amount I want. There are no needles involved as the little plastic tube fits air tight into the center and you just turn it up and draw.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek_kennedy Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I dont bother with two grads. I just use the syringe to draw out what I need, squirt it into the 600ml(?) grad I have that is already filled to the required amount.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylynn Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I use almost nothing but liquids, for ease of use - love Rodinal with slower films, HC-110 for all around use. You can use it to push but you certainly don't have to push (it's not specialized for that).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>Maybe this will give you a better idea of what we are talking about.<br> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5647834989_5bd4830797_z.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="640" /></p> <p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5303/5647835857_919b3a6e52_z.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="640" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveH Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 <p>I'll put in a vote for Ilford ID-11. My reading suggests that it's basically D-76 so it will behave somewhat like what you're used to. It comes in packets to make 1 litre of developer that can be re-used - or diluted as a one-shot. I've recently switched to it for my large format HP-5 and have been happy with the results. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_erickson1 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>I like the tmax developer. It's not particularly expensive, and I prefer it to d-76. It also seems to last a long time. I think that I get better shadow detail wih it, but have not made any rigorous tests and don't intend to. Because I have not used hc-110 I cannot comment on the comparison. It would appear that I am the only one here who likes tmax dev., but I will recommend you go with the majority anyway because I do not know how it works with hp5+. (I have used tmax dev. with tri-X film with no problems.) Now, I only use tmy-2 film, and for that tmax dev is great. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <blockquote> <p>I discussed it with the guy in my local photo store and he told me that Tmax developer is the best for amateurs.</p> </blockquote> <p>TMax developer is okay. It will give full film speed but sacrifices a bit in rough grain. It's easy to use in that it is a fairly dilute liquid so mixing down to the working solution is easy. You might try Ilford DD-X if it's cheaper in your area. DD-X also comes in a dilute liquid.</p> <blockquote> <p>I asked him about HC-110 and he said that it's only good for pushing a LOT and also needs a hich dilution.</p> </blockquote> <p>This is true but requires elaboration.</p> <p>HC-110 tends not to build up base fog on long soaks. This is useful for stand development - a somewhat esoteric film processing techniques that leverages this aspect of HC-110. With this technique the negative is left to stew without agitation in a very dilute solution for an hour or more. The idea is to selectively let development chemistry exhaust on highlights so that the deep shadows can continue to develop. </p> <p>Stand development is risky and doesn't work consistently (at least not more me.)</p> <p>For normal uses, HC-110 actually tends not not give full film speed. It's designed originally for a fast work flow. For example, dilution B for some films requires the film be pulled out in just 4.5 minutes. This is important for press use because every minute counts when trying to squeeze under a deadline.</p> <p>The the hobbyist, the primary advantage of HC-110 is that it's inexpensive and keeps a long time. It's also as hassle-free in actual use as TMAX developer or DD-X. Just syringe directly from the syrup and mix down to the working solution.</p> <blockquote> <p>I've read a few good things on the forums here about HC-110 but maybe it's like he says that it's better if you have experience and better means of diluting the developer.</p> </blockquote> <p>Use the unofficial dilution-H instead of dilution-B. Dilution-H gives a more leisurely development time so lessens the chance of unevenness.</p> <blockquote> <p><br />I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this.</p> </blockquote> <p>The best, no compromise, non-exotic developer for TMAX film is Kodak Xtol used diluted 1:1. Kodak indicates (don't have the publication number handy) that it gives a sharper, higher resolving, lower grain negative than anything available. This is consistent with my experience when comparing against HC-110, DD-X, D-76 and TMAX developer.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>I've been messing with Ilfosol 3 as of late and it has helped me like Tmax 100. I'm actually controlling contrast for a change. I seem to get box speed with good shadows and highlights in check. It may be a touch grainy compared to other developers with this film but that doesn't bother me.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>I have had problems with HC-110 if I use it as a stand because it causes bromide drag and so a semi-stand is what is used this way.. Read Ansel Adam's The Negative about this. As for it causing base fog HC-110 is one of the best developers for reducing base fog... Ask any person who has ever tried to recover old found film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack_zoll Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>I have also has excellent results with HC-110 as an all-around developer. I have not had good results using it with PanF or SFX200 though; the negatives were so contrasty that they were unusable, at least to my tastes.</p> <p>Not sure what that guy's on about saying Rodinal is too hard for non-professionals to use. I use a 1:50 dilution, but 1:25 is considered standard. Then you just read the chart. I like to use a lower temperature and increase developing time for a little lower contrast, but that's just me. I teach photo at my community college, and I tell my kids to use my Rodinal if we're out of the TMax. If Photo 1 students can use it without problems, I don't see how you would have any issues.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>Zack<br> Dilution H with a little reduced agitation and PanF+ will sing. When it comes to PanF+ Rodinol 1-100 full stand or Diafine is great but my new favorite with it is Acufine at E.I. 100 5 minutes. 5.5 if it is an overcast or foggy day. SFX I have never used but the way I understand it it is like Rollei 80s and 200s. I found Diafine or Caffinol-C great for both of those.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>I've used Rodinal almost exclusively for some 28 years. I have a small graduated cylinder for meaduring it out. Other than that, use a medicine syringe as recommended above. In all the years I've used it, Rodinal has never once let me down.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indraneel Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 <p>microphen if you like pushing that hp5+ to 6400. full strength on id-11 for best results. IMHO the best b/w comes out from digital infrared.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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