Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by Mike Gammill, May 26, 2017.
I have a roll of Kentmere 100 in this one
If we ever see the sun again I'll shoot a film with my old favourite Miranda, the model B from around 1959. It has the rather rare 50mm Kowa Prominar-Miranda f/1.9 lens, which seems to have been released only to the Australasian market.
I will be taking this new (to me) Nikkormat EL for a spin. It will be the first film I run through it.
Being that I am working tomorrow I figured I would take my ftb and my digital for a spin.
The Jupiter-8 is a super lens, but does not have click f stop settings. . .toooo many goofed shots at the Markets, so... back to the Industar N-61 lens on the "new" Fed-3. Aloha, Bill
With rain and thunderstorms restricting my outdoor activity I may switch to a macro lens on either the SRT 101 or XE (both loaded with Kentmere 100) look for some subject matter around the house. And of course I can catch up on my developing and scanning.
curious about the kentmere 100 film.recently bought a bulk loader as i transisition myself towards developing my own films.i see the kentmere 100 and 400 100ft rolls selling for around $60.00 . i have hc-110 developer and was wondering about developing issues.too much grain etc.figured on shooting 10 exp rolls and checking developing times , i didnt want to push the film as i am only getting back into developing after many year layoff.i do scan my negatives in my canoscan 9000f scanner on my computer now.darkroom will come later on.any thoughts.
thanks -- gary
I've never tried pushing Kentmere 100. I reserve higher speed needs for HP5+ or Tri-X. I use HC110 dilution H to process my Kentmere 100. You can't tell much from images posted online but when I inspect with a magnifier the Kentmere does seem to have more grain than FP4+ but less than HP5+. The Kentmere does have more contrast than the Ilford films, at least with my processing and scanning. I'd recommend buying a few single rolls before committing to a 100' roll. As far as processing most scanners handle slight underexposure better than overexposure. If you do test the film try to include shots that emphasize grain like skies or walls. As for HC110 I prefer the unofficial dilution H over dilution B as its easier for me to work with. The Massive Development Chart does include some dilution H times. Generally, dilution H times are double dilution B, at least as a starting point. I've found that less than recommended times work best for my scanning. Good luck, and please post some results.
Gary, consider trying any one of the catechol based pyro developers (Pyrocat HD, Obsidian Aqua, Hypercat) with either of the Kentmere emulsions. The Pyrocat HD is available from Formulary, the others are EZ DIY mixes once the bulk chems are purchased. Myself, Rick Drawbridge and Tony Evans are some of the more recent folks posting varis work with these emulsion / developer combos. Consider the Ultrafine Xtreme offerings as (IMHO) they are rebadged Kentmere material and are offered also in 120 materials. Pic here is with an Agfa Isolette 2 (120), UFX 100 & Hypercat.
ever since i've gotten back to taking photo's so far i have had to send negatives out for processing.results so far have been all over the place.now for black and white i have been using ilford xp2 super in both my 35mm and 120 due to the ease of processing.but the results leave a lot to be desired.that is why i am getting back into rolling my own and developing.it's been 40 years give or take since i've done that.
i like the suggestion of getting rolls of kentmere and ultrafine extreme rolls.i just wanted to shoot lesser frames to get technique and work flow established.if i mess up a roll it would only be maybe ten shots or less.right now i stick with using the hc-110 and juggle times and solutions to see the results.it is going to be an experience for sure.
thanks - gary
Regarding the Kentmere discussion, I'll be posting a few samples from the 100 ISO film in tomorrow's Friday thread. I've no experience with the Ultrafine films and I've not seen a definitive statement as to their origin, but the Kentmere is definitely from the Harman stable! I find the grain a little more pronounced than that of FP4, as Mike observed, though it's a very tight, "gritty" grain more like the European films. And then, Ilford Pan 100 and 400 enter into the arena...
If I can get a few hours of sunlight over the next few days I'll be trying out a Nikon F-801 that I finally got to work after cleaning up a mess in the battery compartment. It's a tidier example than the beater I've been using, and they're a camera I admire.
Thinking of Kentmere 100, I wonder how it would look in Rodinal.
This war horse kit, and my mask, will be wondering about in a few places this weekend as Hawaii "reopens" a bit more. Aloha, Bill
It's been a while since I last went out with a Domke F2 bag full of cameras and lenses, but I'm going to try to go out tomorrow with a couple of Nikon FAs.
Hmm... and lenses, I hope...
Mike, your question on Kentmere 100 in Rodinal got me busy with a short roll of my UFX 100 yesterday. Used a Fed-2 / Jupiter-8 to expose it and developed it in Rodinal. 3ml of soup (that's 1: 150 for you math guys) for 13 min (80f). Not bad for this developer. I think the staining of my Hypercat would fill in some of the "grain" but the negs are very usable. Enjoy & Aloha, Bill
For a bit of comparison, I dipped into early 2019 for this negative. Same camera / lens as above, but UFX 400 with Pyrocat HD development. Aloha, Bill
Going to play with this 28mm f/3.5 Komura lens on a Leica IIIc this weekend.
Visiting a "Sand Sculpture Festival" museum on saturday, this year's theme is the 75th Anniversary of the Liberation.
Thinking of fixed lens rangefinder for the next few days.
HiMatic 7S loaded with Eastman 5222. If sunny I'll add a K2 filter.
Might take my Praktica MTL3 out for a spin. Don’t know what film or lens (23 mm or 50 mm) to use.
Pentax LX loaded with PanF and I'd like to do some shooting with the 40 f2.8 I got recently.
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