Slow film BUT....

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by Ricochetrider, Sep 1, 2020.

  1. Hi guys. I want to shoot some of Lomography's latest slow films- ISO 8 & 13. BUT my R3m only goes as low as setting for ISO 25.
    What to do?

    Gotta check my Praktica LTL to see how low it goes, also, maybe.
  2. Hand held meter?
    Math?!? - How hard might it be to overexpose 1 f-stop for an ISO 13 or 1.66 stops(?) for ISO 8? - I could probably count 3 clicks on a Zeiss aperture ring; 5 would be too far for my taste. - YMMV.

    First of all, of course: Have fun! But what are you expecting from those films? Are you planning to shoot waterfalls without an ND filter? Do you get bright enough days and wide enough apertures to shoot your camera hand held & unshaken?
  3. Set the camera's meter at some multiple. For ISO 13 set the meter at 25 ISO. Take your reading and then open up one f-stop or show the shutter one click. That technique will do the trick.
  4. Most cameras have an exposure compensation dial. +1 on that dial effectively reduces your ISO from 25 to 12.5.

    But, more to the point, why would anyone want to mess about with 8 ISO film? Its not as if it gets you much better resolution than T-max 100, and it's probably a copying or microfilm emulsion that's only blue sensitive and has a poor anti-halation layer, or none at all.
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2020
  5. The Babylon 13 film is a beautiful film. I used HC110 to develop as it gives a tad more contrast and a moody look. Post your results when you finish. I highly recommend this film
    morrisbagnall and Ricochetrider like this.
  6. For slow film and a manual camera there is no problem shooting slow film. The meter can obviously meter the light level that you are going to need. Just make the manual compensation.
    The reverse is not true that when you shoot very fast film and your meter can't measure very low light level you would want to shoot the fast film with.
  7. SCL


    simple mental math as noted above. Not really a problem.
  8. No need for any maths. The Cosina R3m has red LED +/- exposure indicators at half-stop intervals in the viewfinder apparently. So for 13 ISO film you set 25 ISO on the dial and use the +1 LED indicator.
    For 8 ISO you'd set 32 ISO and use the +2 stop indicator.
    Ricochetrider likes this.
  9. Are Pentax the only ones, where that wheel doesn't move into both directions at the ends of the ISO range?
  10. No, Konica FS-1 for certain, but I'm sure there are many more.

    EV compensation is (on electromechanical film cameras) often implemented by mechanically coupling the EV comp dial to the ISO selection dial, either internally or, as in the case of the FS-1, very obviously externally. So, when you select +1 comp, you're actually (as far as the mechanical workings of the camera are concerned) just selecting ISO 50 as opposed to ISO 100. If you were already at the end of the metering range, then there may be no more movement available. Essentially, this is just a more convenient solution to moving the ISO dial one stop, which is what we did before, with the risk of later forgetting what film you had loaded.

    As already stated above, this is all pretty irrelevant anyway. The light meter just gives an EV value, so meter at whatever ISO suits you, then adjust either shutter or aperture by the correct number of stops to match the actual film speed.

    Obviously, this prevents you from using auto exposure, but with such slow film, you're likely to be using a tripod, so you'll be operating more slowly anyway.
  11. No auto exposure on the R3m. Just the LED indicator that runs from -2.0 to +2.0 in half stop indications. So no need to adjust anything, other than ensuring the relevant LED is lit up.
  12. Thanks guys. I don't use auto anyway so no worries.
    Thank you! Appreciate the advice.
  13. Do have an instagram account of is there someplace I can see your images with Babylon?
  14. IIRC(and don't actually have one with me to play with) most of the manual-type auto exposure Nikons(EL, FE, FA, etc) run out of EC range at the end of the ISO range. So do cameras like the Canon A-1 and I think even the New F-1.

    On a lot of these cameras, the ISO and EC dials are essentially the same dial just marked differently. From what I've seen, this limitation basically hits any camera where the ISO and EC are combined on the same dial, since both dials operate the same electrical part inside the camera.
  15. That's because they were designed with sensible ISO/ASA speeds in mind and after the era of using the lens cap to time exposures.:rolleyes:

    Anyone using anything slower, like copying film or cine print stock in the camera, was expected to know what they were doing and use a separate meter and manual mode.
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2020
  16. To be fair, these are also from the era of Kodachrome 25 and 64. Like these films or not, they were incredibly popular with both amateurs and also Nat Geo photographers(see Afghan Girl).

    Then, in the 90s, Velvia 50 took over the landscape world.

    All of those fall into the range where a lot of cameras can run out of +EC on some cameras.

    As you said, though, someone using these films should know how to go manual on them.
  17. I remember figuring this out with the Nikon FM. There is a circular resistor under the ASA/shutter speed knob. If you set the ISO high enough, and shutter speed low enough, it wraps around. I believe it will also do this the other way, but I never tried it.
  18. I never use the EC. Make it a lot simpler.
  19. The EC and ISO settings on an Olympus OM-2 used the exact same dial. The dial would turn freely for several clicks in either direction if you were changing EC. To change the ISO setting you had to lift it up and turn it. It was marked in such a way that it was clear which you were changing, - EC vs ISO.

    It would not turn all the way around from what I remember.

    At first calling this "Exposure Compensation" struck me as "cheating". But Olympus was all about keeping their cameras compact and adding a 2nd dial that essentially just changed the ISO setting anyway didn't make much sense. Plus it had some educational value.
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2020
  20. That was common on nearly all film cameras. It's only with the advent of digital cameras and auto-ISO that the two controls have become separated.

    If you take any digital camera off an auto-exposure mode and keep the exposure settings constant, then varying the ISO has exactly the same effect as exposure compensation.

    Additionally; if you use a separate handheld meter, the only ways to apply EC are to either use a bit of mental arithmetic or to alter the ISO setting of the meter.

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