Help identify Found Film & Their Developing Needs

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by forestfernandez, Sep 21, 2017.

  1. Hi guys,
    These rolls have found their way into my possession.
    One roll is believed to be un-exposed (the brown roll), while the rest
    are supposed to be exposed. I'm curious how i can figure out each roll's
    ISO sensitivity so that i can suggest the proper developing process to the lab technician.
    I've brought old rolls in before and just said idk try something, and of course it came back blank.
    So, i'd like to try my best to identify everything before sending them off.

    None of these rolls say ISO sensitivity.
    Some suggest a certain developer process on them,
    but i don't know whether or not that notifies you of the ISO sensitivity, or if that process covers all ISO's.
    Anyways, if you guys could help me identify the correct process i'd need to develop these, that would be awesome!
    Thanks.

    P.S. sorry for the odd picture sizes, just haphazardly threw them together for comparison.

    BrownRoll- Unexposed.jpg

    C-22.jpg

    CPS-120.jpg

    Kodacolor 2 Film.jpg

    Pan Film.jpg

    Unknown Pink Roll.jpg

    Unknown Yellow.jpg
     
  2. Tony Parsons

    Tony Parsons Norfolk and Good

    No guarantees of accuracy - pretty much guesswork, I'm afraid, but may give others some ideas!!

    1) No idea

    2) Kodak Colour Print film - process C22 (probably unavailable)

    3) As 2

    4) Kodacolor II - again, C22

    5) Slow (50 ASA ?) B&W

    6) Verichrome Pan - B & W 125 ASA

    7) No idea - possibly transparency ?

    Were they mine, I would suggest processing them all purely as monochrome. Try extended development time to compensate for the age of the latent image (I think most of these are probably at least 40 years old). Try just one film, see if anything is salvageable.

    When you say the other one(s) were blank, what about the film edge markings - were they visible ?

    Good luck
     
  3. The roll labeled "verichrome" may not be Verichrome Pan. Kodak manufactured an orthochromatic film using the Verichrome name for some years. They added the "Pan" to the name to denote that it was panchromatic.

    I learned film processing as a boy using Verichrome ortho film and a red safelight. Ortho film is not red sensitive.
     
  4. The film labeled C22 process is probably best done as B&W.

    I think there's one specialty lab that will run C22 if you pay them enough, but it's largely a dead process. One of the key problems with C22 is that its designed to be done at around the same temp as B&W, which is roughly room temperature. Modern color processes(C41 and E6) are done at elevated temperatures-right around 100ºF(I forget what it is exactly in Farenheit, but know that I do E6 at 40.5ºC). The high temperatures of C41 will destroy it, while straight D76 at 20º for ~10 minutes or so(many folks advocate HC110 for old film) should give a decent enough image. Fix as normal for a B&W film.

    Truth be told, 7-10 minutes in D76 is probably what I'd do on all of them. Even if that's not optimal(and optimal is hard to determine on old film with unknown storage conditions and possibly obsolete processing requirements), that will give at least a scannable negative on most anything.

    Just know that you probably have a physical fight on your hands :) . Film that has been in a camera or on a roll for a while is usually VERY curly. It can be a pain to load on a reel and will often stay that way even after processing. If you can manage, try reverse-curling it on the reel during processing. Let it dry in a warm, humid room(I keep my darkroom humid anyway to help control dust) and when you hang it to dry put a binder clip or two at the bottom of the roll.
     
  5. ISO sensitivity has little bearing on process times. And most lab "technician's" (machine feeders) won't have a clue how to process those old rolls anyway.

    The C22 process is obsolete by well over 40 years, which makes me wonder if there's any developable image left on the film if it's not been refrigerated.

    "Tripleprint" was a "free" film provided with paid processing. A similar setup to "Gratispool". Not much seems to be known about the film type or process needed.

    I suggest developing all the film as B&W negative. It's your best bet at getting any useable pictures.
     
  6. Tony Parsons

    Tony Parsons Norfolk and Good

    Something has just kicked a stray neuron at the back of my brain that it 'may' have been Agfa print film - anyone confirm, please ?
     
  7. As I understand it, you can use C41 chemistry at lower (then C41) temperatures on C22 film, though I don't know about times.

    But color film doesn't last as long, so there is a good chance that you won't get anything.

    There is some correlation between ASA values (these films are likely older than ISO) but not all that much.

    I was surprised once to see that, at least in some cases, TMax 100 develops longer than TMax400.
    (There are different versions of each film, so this might not be true for all.)

    Best guess is to use Verichrome Pan times, especially for actual VP.

    For Verichrome (not Pan) and other films from that time frame, you should use a lower temperature,
    as it is old enough that VP temperatures might be too high.
     

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