D 76 in a Can and seriously dark HC 110 still good?

<p>Firstly, I come bearing gifts! I wanted to thank you guys for all of your expert help. So at the end of this post some of my first neg scans are attached.<br>

<br />Secondly, down to the actual question. Yes, I have D 76 in a tin can. I am not even kidding. Recently a kind person gave me their whole darkroom. Yes their whole darkroom. Including d 76 in a can a case of HC110 Developer and Replenisher, and more acetic acid 28% than I can shake a stick at. Oh, he also gave me an Omega enlarger with the film carriers. Too bad I don't have a darkroom large enough to handle it.</p>

<p>So from what I understand the d76 should still be good as long as it doesn't look like brown sugar or something like that. The HC 110... I hear different things about that. I have pictures of it btw. Would it still be good? Also, this may be stupid, but can you use the replenisher <em>like </em>a developer? I just don't want to waste anything you know?</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/77401307@N06/7834904400/<br>

<br>

And as promised the fruits of my labor. Film developing was easy when I realized I should develop for longer than 5 minutes on 1+1 d76 dilution. *sigh*<br /><br>

<br>

(I'm sorry I had to post links, I couldn't get them to post directly, oh well)<br /></p>

<p>You know?... That HC-110 looks better than the bottle I am using today... :-)</p>

<p>Sit the can of D76 on the display shelf and leave it there, unopened. <br>

Mix a small amount of HC110 working solution, put a small piece (1 1/2- 2 inch) piece of film in the mixed solution, it should turn black in the developing time for the temperature the solution is at.<br>

See:<br>

<a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a><br>

and<br>

<a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf">http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf</a></p>

<p>yes the covimngtom method.<br>

it is the oNLY practical way to use the stuff.<br>

I tossed my first and last bottle of HC-110 years ago because of the dopey kodal way..<br>

Best to follow covington's suggestions and use it as a one-shot.<br>

it will do just about anything.<br>

I had a small can of microdol that rusted thru.<br>

my other cans dk-50 and d-76 were ok<br>

I have not opened my Pouch of d-76 if it is dark I will not use it.<br>

at least you develop film.,<br>

sometimnes a kitchen or large bathroom can be used as a makeshift darkroom.<br>

develop filme one night and a few dasy later make prints.<br>

I have a huge omega<br>

abut I think I will use a smaller enlarger if I need to print.<br>

at night black plastic garbage bags should be enough.<br>

just do not leave paper out . someone may flip a switch of enter the area.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I agree with Charles. Display the d76 on a shelf. For me it be worth more as room decor than the $6 it will cost to mix a new gallon.</p>

<p>If the HC-110 has congealed or crystalized it'll probably be easier to mix as stock solution per Kodak's recommendation, rather than the more popular one-shot mixes.</p>

<p>If the D-76 is old enough to be in a metal can it's in the range of 30 years old or more and highly unlikely to be worth bothering with. Display it as suggested but I wouldn't waste time trying to use it. Liquids don't last, so I would toss the HC-110. Fresh developer is cheap enough there's not need to use something old.</p>

<p>In contrast to Craig, some liquids do last well. HC-110 can last fairly well. Is the liquid itself as dark as the bottle appears or is that just the color of the bottle? I have differently shaped bottles of HC-110 that are around 10-15 years old (possibly older) and they still work. It's a great developer to have on hand if you find old film you want to develop (by old I mean 50 years old). <br>

If you're thinking of using these to save money, then I wouldn't, however. Fresh stuff is cheap and you can find something that will give you a good result with whatever film you've chosen.</p>

<p>Bethe I agree As I said but did not argue My bottles look like coke but work full speed. I wanted the never dones to talk first. As also said do a test strip. Even if it is a full light struck leader.<br>

I used some Rodinal I got in an Antique store that had a cork stopper on it. Worked fine including all the crystals in the bottom of it.<br>

<br />The thing is if you never try you will never know if it or you will fail.</p>

<p>I wouldn't be surprised if the old can of D-76 is still good. In the early 1970s I bought U.S. Army #2 film developer. It came in a can in powder form and was bought at the long gone Bonafide Novelties in NY. The cans were army green and I think went for $.025 for one gallon. About half of the cans were good. They must have been either from the Korean War or WWII. If you open the can and the powder is a pale tan color then you are probably OK. Test either developer before using it for any important film. </p>

<p>I just used some HC-110 that I found I used Dilution B it was in the old square bottle with the small cap from the 60s-70s it was almost Rodinal color. I mean real old Rodinal.<br>

<br />I used it on super expired Eastman XX 5222.<br>

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8437/7869072772_348e758052_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>