Best developer for Rollei Superpan 200

<p>First, a disclaimer: I searched the forum before I asked, but did not see any advice for which is the lowest grain developer for Rollei Superpan 200. It is possible I am blind and missed it, and if so, please feel free to post a link. </p>

<p>On to the issue at hand. I was traveling and found some Rollei Superpan film at a good camera repair shop. I bought some for later use as a sort "what the heck" purchase. Then I found myself up very high in some misty mountains and my Rollei TLR camera. I was overlooking some nearby buildings and still wanted to show the great mountains, so it seemed like a good time to use the Superpan. I put on a deep red filter and later swapped it for an orange filter to have a couple of different contrasts, and shot with sunny 16 minus one stop for the filters. I might need to push the film by half a stop - I was tired, it was a hike, and I could have exposed better, I know. I shot in digital as well, so not all my eggs are in one basket, but still, I'd like to try to give this film the best development I can. </p>

<p>The posts I saw indicated that this film gave good results push-processed and that Rodinal gave a grainy look. Beyond that, I don't have much information. Given the above shooting scenario, what kind of developer would you all recommend? I would love a no-grain/low-grain look. I could really use some expertise. Thanks. </p>

<p>You can't go wrong with XTol at 1:1, and maybe give it 20 minutes at 1:1 dilution. If you need more speed, you could also try HC-110, but I don't have times for that, and I've only tested this film with XTol. </p>

<p>Can I ask you if you got this film in the USA? I bought a few rolls when I was in Europe, but haven't seen it in the US. Oops, never mind. I see FreestylePhoto.biz has it now.</p>

<p>I use Diafine at ISO 320.<br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4900020393_16791e40b9_z.jpg" alt="" width="393" height="640" /></p>

<p>With HC110 you would need to make your own tests. I've found that many films not listed there either have too much contrast at more popular dilutions (like B) or have such short developing times that consistency might suffer.<br>

The non-official (at least by Kodak) dilution H, though has worked well for processing Rollei Retro 80S and I think that time's on the Massive Developing Chart. Maybe use that time for a starting time if you're interested in HC110. FWIW, Rollei markets some developers, but they are somewhat expensive.</p>

<p>>> I would love a no-grain/low-grain look <<</p>

<p>Go for the ultra fine grain developers: CG-512 / Rollei Low Speed , Perceptol or (discontinued) Microdol-X.<br>

In CG-512/ RLS it's 12:00 minutes at 24C. It will give you neglectible grain but will cost 1F stop so expose on E.I. 100.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have used Perceptol before and liked it. It's possible to use this with Superpan? Contrast wasn't as strong as could be with Perceptol, but I think my shots will be contrasty enough as is given the strong sunlight that day. </p>

<p>The film is already exposed, so I can't change that. And I cannot re-shoot. I checked out some of the Rollei developers but the one recommended for the film was $24 (ROLLEI RHS High Speed Film Developer). I am willing to pay that if it's the best one. But I have no indication it's the one to use. Sounds like it might not be the right choice. </p>

<p>I bought the film in Bergen, Norway, FWIW. I had never seen it in a shop before - only online. But then, I was shocked to see any medium format film for sale outside the US or UK. But then, I was near the home of the Hasselblad. </p>

<p>Thanks guys for getting me closer to the right choice here. </p>

<p>Jennifer,<br>

My understanding is the Deep Red is 3 Stops. Might be a lot of pushing.</p>

 

<p>Metering with that filter over my light meter indicates it's about 2 stops. Maybe there is a deeper red than the filter I have? </p>

<p>For fine grain I would suggest Ilford Perceptol.</p>

<p>Here is the Rollei developing table. RHS is AM74 (Amaloco photochemicals) compatible.<br>

<a href="http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Development_Rollei%20films.pdf">http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Development_Rollei%20films.pdf</a></p>

 

Hi I am using a Fuji GSW690 with all types of b&w 120 roll film. I want to try the Rollei Superpan 200 and develop it with my favourite developer the Ilford perceptol at 1:9 one shot. Has anybody out there done this and for how long should i develop it for.

Thanks Michael

<p>For fine grain I would suggest Ilford Perceptol.</p>

Hi I am using a Fuji GSW690 with all types of b&w 120 roll film. I want to try the Rollei Superpan 200 and develop it with my favourite developer the Ilford perceptol at 1:9 one shot. Has anybody out there done this and for how long should i develop it for.

Thanks Michael

If it si the 25, or A, filter, charts I have say 3 stops for daylight, 2.5 for tungsten.

 

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Rollei+Superpan+%25&Developer=&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C

 

has a few choices for EI 800, and even for D76 at EI 1600.

 

If the orange filter is 15/G, that is about 1.3 stops, so you should be close on that one.

 

I think I would go for Diafine, considering the mixture of exposures on the roll.

With Superpan's extended red sensitivity I'm wondering if you need that many stops extra.

From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number

 

The 25/A is 580nm cutoff, and the 15/G is 510nm.

 

Somewhat usual for panchromatic films is down to about 640nm.

(Down in the frequency/energy sense.) If a film went to about 700nm,

that could be about one stop more for the 25/A.

 

If: http://www.gommamag.com/v4/downloads/data/006_page/agfa_other/aviphot_pan200.pdf

 

is the one, it seems to go to about 750nm, so maybe only about 1.5 stops less.

thanks to fotohuis I shoot superpan 200/RR400s at 160 and develop in beutler 1+1+10 for 9.5 minutes at 68 degrees. very sharp grain but it can be large. but 11x14 prints from 35mm are great.120 prints are amazing. i love that 100 foot bulk rolls are very cheap when bought from germany.

I bought some Superpan 200 and shot 2 rolls so far. The images without any filter look good but the ones where I used a red 25A filter seem overexposed and lower contrast even when compensating by 3 stops (on the first roll I did an A-B test, one shot with the filter and one without). Both rolls were shot in bright sunny conditions. I developed them in D-76 1+1 for 14 min at 20C. I'm wondering if I should adjust the exposure time or shoot normally and alter the developer time to get more even results.