leicaglow

I owned a couple versions of the bigger, older reflex 500s. I bought the second only because I thought I had a bad copy of my first. That was not the case. I ended up buying the newer compact version, and felt it produced sharper images, but still not quite up to Nikon Pro quality, so I ended up selling that one too. I did have a 10000mm f/11 and it was quite a good lens.

I can say that my new 24-70mm f/2.8 vr has a very smooth zoom function, albeit not light. It is smooth enough to use for video.

The Nikon teleconverter on the 70-200mm f/2.8 works really well, and I assume it would on the f/4 version. It might be worth a try.

The Nikon teleconverter on the 70-200mm f/2.8 works really well, and I assume it would on the f/4 version. It might be worth a try.

The Nikon teleconverter on the 70-200mm f/2.8 works really well, and I assume it would on the f/4 version. It might be worth a try.

My local liquor store saves up crown royal bags and anxious to get rid of them, but then my state makes bars and taverns buy alcohol from a state controlled liquor store, who removes the bottles from the bags. Every piece of my systems is in a crown bag. If being stored for longer periods, I double bag them. I caution that using silica gel can dry out oils and grease in older cameras. My area is fairly dry, so I dont need air dryers. While you say "store" cameras, I still believe it is good to exercise mechanisms a few times a year, and even put a Saturday on my calendar every three months to operate all camera shutters and dials, and lens focusing and aperture rings.

I also dont have color issues with my Epson neg scanning. If the neg actually looks bluish and washed out, then I concur the problem is with processing, not the scanner.

Ive owned all Nikkormats made, and it is a great camera. I always kid it is so well built you could drive nails with it. But with that comes a fairly heavy camera. When the FM/FE series came out, I switched. If you just want a classic 70's era camera, they are great examples.

Freestylephoto.biz has a good selection of instant film that should work.

Here is a theory: the space between frames doesn't have a light leak, so maybe it isn't the mag seal. Could it be the baffle in the camera not closing all the way?

They all have their duds, but it seems Sigma is doing the most development of the three you mention.

Otto was looking for the value I think, not necessarily where to sell it. If you had some pics you could post that shows the serial number, that would help.

Well if you mean it's their version of a tab type film sure. But in my experience, especially using sheet film, they are entirely different looking films from the base, to the composition of the grain, and how it's developed. When I think of versions, I think of id-11 being ilfords version of d-76, where the formula was once identical. For example I would tend to use the T max for landscape photography with a bit more pop, but I would prefer in many cases the Delta film for use in architectural photography. The fine, even grain lends itself well to angles. Aside from both being b&w, and tabular grain, I wouldnt say they have much in common, but that is my opinion. I used to shoot a lot of Delta 100 when it came out in my view camera, xpan, and sw/cm for architectural work. The emulsions between each brands respective three film sizes are virtually identical aside from the thickness of the base. I still use a lot of Delta 100 and 400 in 120.

Had a look at the camera. It is a 500 el/m, not el/x, but has the newer plate release. Had a crappy Neveready battery in it. Put in a fresh Energizer 9v battery, put the side plate on, took it off the Lock position, and it immediately cycled correctly, including properly cocking the shutter. I guess a weak battery prevents something from engaging. Hope this helps someone else.

A friend was asking if I knew what is causing a problem with his 500el/x (or m--he wasnt sure). He is using a 9v battery adapter with new battery. He presses the shutter and it exposes the film, shutter on lens remains closed, light baffle stays open and the film winding gear goes around and around and wont stop until you turn the switch to L for lock, or pull the battery. While I have heard of this many times before, I cannot for the life of me recall what causes it. He said he just had the body cla'd by a competent (but not an expert on Hasselblads), a few months ago. Anyone remember what causes this endless cycling? I suggested it might need adjustment, but wasnt sure if it might be something with the 9 volt battery converter or something since I dont use them. The lens is jammed in place, though I can probably unjam it when I see him. Thanks for any suggestions.