nic_olas

Is it worth it? What would you say are the notable benefits? I think the F3 screen would be darker than the F4 E screen... Thinking of doing this myself!

What is best to apply to sliding metal on metal points? I have an older Konica (Autorex/Autoreflex) that sets the lens aperture by quickly turning a stop down ring, linked to levers and the shutter button. It tends to stick or lag, unless the screws are really loose and it can move more freely. It's basically two rings on top of each other, one turns quickly at a button press and needs to be snappy to work apertures in time. It's all mechanical, 60s era akin to trap needle metering systems, but with a whole mechanism to stop down the lens in step with shutter actuating. Half my roll was underexposed because of this being laggy I think. Thanks!

What is best to apply to sliding metal on metal points? I have an older Konica (Autorex/Autoreflex) that sets the lens aperture by quickly turning a stop down ring, linked to levers and the shutter button. It tends to stick or lag, unless the screws are really loose and it can move more freely. It's basically two rings on top of each other, one turns quickly at a button press and needs to be snappy to work apertures in time. Half my roll was underexposed because of this being laggy I think.

Adding to this rather old thread, mostly to keep it alive to help others. I've now had 2 A1 Bodies with the battery drain. I will experiment and see if leaving on "L" will help - If so, great! If not, Next step is to take the top cover off and give the contact points a clean with alcohol and see if that does it. I'll document the outcome here

Joe, is electrical contact cleaner essential for the job or would 99% isopropyl do the job safely? I've cleaned some meters before but want to be sure its helping not hindering!

Well enough, sometimes it makes it harder as it's dark, but it's never blacked out completely. Ideally a proper lens to mount is best, but to experiment with other glass it's well worth the stop down caveats. Again, on an older FD camera it's much nicer as buttons stay pressed to free up hands for focus, holding, shooting etc

For using Pre AI lenses the DOF button is essential. I only wish that it could be locked in to keep it constantly pressed. I think the old Canon FD mount cameras did this best: on the F1, FTB etc the DOF switch can be locked and then you just have to meter as you go instead of the button juggle like on the F3 that almost requires 3 hands to shoot smoothly with legacy Pre AI glass. I'm consider ways to keep the F3 DOF button depressed in, a 3d printed clip or something to hold it down - I shoot mostly pre AI glass at the moment!

NVM I believe I know the equivalence, 18 x 1.5 = 27mm 55 x 1.5 = 82.5 Is this roughly correct?

Trying to understand this 'crop' or equivalence. So for examples, an 18mm Nikon lens on the Pen F film would be? A 50mm Nikon Lens would be? Thanks! Maths isn't my strength

It came with the MD attached, but no cover. I 3D printed a little button cover for another F3 I once had, I should do this again...

SO! A 2nd test roll back and there are no mysterious black marks like the previous shots. I think, and awkward to say, it may have been a finger/strap/anomaly in the last roll. Nothing like this on the second roll, varying speeds. It likely would have shown up at least once if it was the mirror etc? If that's good, woo-hoo! The next step is a light tight body. I have redone all the back door seals. I have tape over the MD cover for now. Do any of these leaks look like they're coming from elsewhere on the body? The appearance is sort of a red / brown fog at the egdes and some trouble in bright light / the sun. Thanks for all the input everyone.

Here is the mirror and mirror box, all seems okay aside from the 2nd mirror having crumbly old foam, but not sticky. I'll shoot another roll and see if anything repeats!

That was using a motor drive, I think it messed up the film transport and the roll was stuck making the same shot on repeat! Wild looking images! The roll otherwise seems okay! It might be the old 'finger in front of the lens' - hard to do with a SLR and i doubt it, but maybe thats the anomaly if most other shots are good?

As far as I can remember, the lens was clear in the viewfinder at the point of taking. A blocked lens I would have likely seen before taking the shots. If it helps here's a contact sheet of the roll, most shots are fine, only these two and some light leaks here and there...

Thanks, looks pretty good in there. Nothing obvious. Some shots come out fine, same day, same lens etc