iosif_astrukov

<p>ok… you got my curiosity - what is so special of this pre-AI 50mm f/2 lens? <br /> honestly I can't imagine what could be better than this 50mm 1.2… actually I made some tests between 50mm AF-D 1.8 and this lens and the major difference I saw is the colour rendition… to my surprise… you can see here - the tests are on slide film, scanned as it is (at the bottom) - <br /> <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3akmexHeHI_SkhaYjRheVlFWnM?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3akmexHeHI_SkhaYjRheVlFWnM?usp=sharing </a><br /> my other favourite lens is the 105 DC and recently I touched the old version - 2.5 and it has the absolutely same great image - some days ago I had the opportunity to buy it for about 200$ but I didn't and now I regret a little, because it was in very good shape…</p>

<p>sure - I meant compatibility...</p>

<p>Thank you all!<br> I think I got the picture… obviously they are not a good option today, as usually you need a recent body for a good video… so basically I need the AI-S version<br> The good news is that Nikon still produce MF lenses… the bad is that they are quite expensive… <br> Actually for about an year I have the 50mm 1.2 and it is really incredible lens! Although on my film body I don't have metering - there is a nice app that works just great :) recommend it</p>

<p>Two articles that explains all:<br> http://www.kehblog.com/2011/10/nikon-lenses-non-ai-ai-ai-s-and-aid.html<br> http://kpixel.com/wp/2011/02/mounting-vintage-nikkor-on-nikon-d90/</p>

<p>Thank you!<br> Can you please explain what could be damaged if it's not converted? I thought that the camera just could not 'know' the aperture… </p>

<p>Recently I came upon these lenses - 50mm 1.4; 24mm 2.8; 85 1.8… relatively reasonable prices and sometimes even well preserved, as they are 40+ years old… I was wondering what is the image quality if someone still use them...<br> I am thinking of taking several old MF lenses for a video set, and I wonder if they would be OK for this purpose</p>

<p>I also noticed this 'swirly bokeh' you call it - it doesn't look nice to me… <br> here are some more shots with this new lens from a photographer I know - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/kalin.ruichev/posts/10210836913309513">https://www.facebook.com/kalin.ruichev/posts/10210836913309513</a> </p> <p>the old 105 DC is still my favourite lens :) </p>

Thanks Jeff, exactly what I am doing And yes Edward you are right for the dynamic of the Velvia and not only, Ektachrome too, there are shots that even the 3 in the D810 HDR is not enough, but mostly 1 is great, depends I wrote a post about that in the Film forum, the link above is showing some tests I was wondering if the TIFF created is 8 or 16 bits, but I just read that the NEF is 12 or 14 so it is defenetly not 16, most probably its 8, so no need to boost files in ACR, I would use only PS

<p>Thanks<br> The advantage is that I need HDR - otherwise the dynamic is not good<br> The only thing I need actually is the different colour profiles that nef's have in ACR<br> so basically there is no sense of pulling 16 bits… </p>

<p>I am shooting TIFF files with D810 using the HDR function to scan slides - <a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_T1g1REJYZldOS1E&usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_T1g1REJYZldOS1E&usp=sharing</a> <br> Today I found out that when opening the TIFF files with Adobe Camera Raw I could open them at 16 bit - is this real? <br> After than the files saved are over 400Mb, while the original TIFF files coming from the camera are about 112Mb...<br> What do you think? Is this real 16bit or is it some interpolation? <br> As the TIFF format is uncompressed I guess this isn't real 16 bit...</p>

<p>I made some more tests and shootings today, with D810 and the widen frame<br /> <a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_T1g1REJYZldOS1E&usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_T1g1REJYZldOS1E&usp=sharing</a><br /> all HDRs are in "Normal" mode, and as follows - 1,2 and 3 EV<br /> my first impression is that most of the slides are digitalised best in HDR mode at 1 EV, sometimes in 2, rarely 3<br /> of course depends of the shot and how you like it<br /> also you could play with the Picture control settings - "Standart" is most likely the best one, but also "Vivid" is useful sometimes, once I tried "Neutral" but it wasn't ok</p> <p>P.S. at first I tried the 105 micro, but than I realised that it just can't focus at this point - it needs an extender :) </p>

<p>Can you please tell me more about this "orange mask"? Which films have it and what's the purpose of it?</p>

<p><strong>Digital is more objective, but photography is a subjective endeavor. Putting it another way, every method and medium distorts reality. Ultimately you choose the method which distorts in a way that pleases you.</strong><br /> <br /> <strong><br /></strong>I just can't agree more!!!! :)</p> <p>otherwise - I know that the recent researches puts the digital DR better than the film, but… I also trust my eyes - and believe me what I see on the slide is far away from what the D800 get on file… there is a HUGE difference sometimes… yet some slides are brilliant</p> <p>now I will read all the post carefully again, I hope this thread would be useful to everybody :) </p> <p> </p>

<p>on paper - yes, they exceed <br> but in practice - not even close sometimes… especially on some shots of heavy clouds and blue-green sea - you could see the perfect slide through the viewfinder - and than the result on the screen is… tragic<br> one thing that I will improve - I will wider a little bit the frame holder - the frame of the slide itself, so that the "scanning" area could be more - the frame is closing a bit, leaving some extra edge out, but when you digitalise it's better to have this millimetre more… that counts for some scanners also - that use frame holders, like Coolscan V<br> I will try also the HDR function of the camera next time… especially for some shots<br> Actually some are really excellent, while others are not really good… </p>

<p>I used the sun - I decided that the daylight is the only source with full spectre, so that the colours would be best<br /> A lot of people use flash - like SB700-900 etc<br /> When put to direct sunlight, with ISO 100, f 8, the shutter was about 80-125, in the shadow - about 15-30<br /> The Nikon ES-1 is GREAT - I loved it! All metal and the diffuser is very good!<br /> The only problem of this method is the dynamic - it's really not good, I didn't have time to experiment more, but I think a HDR technique could improve a lot the quality, especially for some shots. Otherwise it's a good way to digitalise, and with every new camera you will get better results.</p> <p>About the still life - the book mein kamph along with other stuff was selling on an antique table on the street…</p>

<p>You can see some NEFs here - <a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_M3BXZjJ3LUlnT3c&usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_M3BXZjJ3LUlnT3c&usp=sharing</a></p>

<p>Usually I don't use AWB.<br> I just uploaded one more series with fixed WB, colour profile and direct camera JPEG, if someone is interested can take a look… </p>

<p>These are direct NEF raw files from the camera… <br> I already get the film shots - they don't have great differences with the ones I made with the AF-D 50mm 1.8 - both at 5.6 - just a little bit of colour difference - which is normal, no two lenses have the same colour rendering… but I didn't make tests there - the slide is too expensive :) <br> And again - it's a lovely lens :) I will update the link with new files in the time coming </p>

<p>These are direct NEF raw files from the camera… <br> I already get the film shots - they don't have great differences with the ones I made with the AF-D 50mm 1.8 - both at 5.6 - just a little bit of colour difference - which is normal, no two lenses have the same colour rendering… but I didn't make tests there - the slide is too expensive :) <br> And again - it's a lovely lens :) I will update the link with new files in the time coming </p>

<p>Thank you everybody! <br> I can't find information about the next F stop after 1.2 - does anybody knows? It clearly have a position, most probably 1.4</p>

<p>Thank you<br> The lens is brand new - it should be AI-S<br> As D90 doesn't support metering I was on M mode and shooting and relying on the LCD, indeed there is a little underexposure, actually there is one stop between 1.2 and 2 - I guess it should be 1.4, but it could be also 1.8 <br> As I was moving the F with one stop, I found out I should move the shutter 2 or 3 stops and even than there is a little underexposure<br> Honestly I did these samples a little in a hurry, so I wasn't very precise, but still the colour/contrast is quite visible I thing, especially if you compare 1.2 with 5.6<br> I will try your method of focusing - I was also relying on the focusing confirmation dot, that's why I thing there is a little back/front focusing<br> I am eager to see the results of the film shots I made… <br> But really it's an amazing lens! I like the… 'density' if I can use this word - the image looks very consistently somehow</p>

<p>I wrote in an old theme for this lens, but obviously nobody is seeing it there… <br /> Recently I get this incredible lens - I am already in love with it !!!! :) and I noticed that there is a shift in colour/contrast moving form 1.2 upwards - it's warmer and low contrast in 1.2 - here are some sample shots I made - <a href="https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_SkhaYjRheVlFWnM&usp=sharing" target="_blank">https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_SkhaYjRheVlFWnM&usp=sharing</a></p> <p>As I never noticed it on other lenses - any idea why is happening?</p> <p>btw I thing there is a little back focusing on this D90, but not sure as I shot handheld</p>

<p>I just get this lens - Nikkor 50mm 1.2 and… it's just amazing! It's a great pleasure to photograph with!<br> Here you can see some NEF's I made - https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3akmexHeHI_SkhaYjRheVlFWnM&usp=sharing<br> I guess there is a little back focusing with the D90 I have, not sure about it as I shoot handheld, there is a shift in colour and contrast for sure - getting warmer when close to 1.2, you can see it in the samples… I didn't saw this issue so strong on other lenses actually… what's the explanation?</p> <p>In any case - great lens!</p>

<p>I think that most probably it was a bad battery problem… but I am not sure<br> Over an year ago I had bought two pairs of VARTA CR2 batteries, and I was using the first one when the problems started, after the last 'black' film happened I put the newer pair, which 'dyed' on the very first shot… so I bought new DURACELL pair and now the film is OK… <br> but who knows… hope everything to be back to normal now, and I won't compromise with batteries anymore - recently I was trying to 'squeeze' more from them, as I noticed that they could continue working after the first low battery icon shows, but now I will change them as once I did - on the very fist time they show the low battery icon...</p>

<p>here are some presets you can use - http://www.neebu.net/~khuon/photography/NIKON/CUSTOMPC/ </p>