henry_finley1

<p>You're being sued and the plaintiff has no contract. Tell them to pound sand.</p>

<p>Well, as it turns out, I lucked up on an FT2 parts camera and robbed the screen out of it Now I have the correct screen for my FT2, and it was a lot closer in calibration than the FTN screen I had in it. After I tweeked that mirror adjustment screw about a half a hair, everything turned out dandy. Thanks, folks.</p>

<p>Thank you. I am not familiar with you, Pete S, but you sound like you are knowledgeable about this kind of camera work. If you are still reading, is that 46.5mm reading from the face of the lens mount to the film plane? That is, if I put a piece of glass on the film rails and ran my depth gauge down from the face of the lens mount, is this the 46.5 measurement? Thank you.</p>

<p>One thing I know from my pursuits in Hasselblad repair, is that the mirror is a non-negotiable 45 degree. From there the screen is necessarily adjusted. Absolutely no mention is made of either adjustment or shimming in the Nikkormat service literature, and I have never seen any in any Nikkormat I ever opened.</p>

<p>Hey thanks, Steven Lewis. That's probably it exactly. Unfortunately the old screen appears to not be with me any more to steal the frame off of. And I'm not going to put another nickel into this body shopping around for one. At least I know what the problem was.</p>

<p>Thank you gentlemen. I am adept at camera repair. The screen I removed was identical in configuration to the replacement, other than the original FT2 screen was a K, and the FTN screen was a microprism. No mention was made in the service manual about a shim, and I've never seen a shim in a Nikkormat.</p>

<p>I've got a Nikkormat FT2 here that had a bad screen, so I swapped an FTN screen from a junk body into it. But the focus is off compared to all my other Nikons and Nikkormats. I don't know which direction off hand, but it's about 1/8 inch off in it's turn up near infinity. I don't recall the screen being spring-loaded requiring collimation. I believe I remember the screen dropping in onto a hard stop, like the F and F2's, and not a spring loaded affair requiring calibration.<br> So, why is the focus off? Thank you.</p>

<p>Strange that this topic would be here. But since about 2 weeks ago, everywhere I go I have to put up with the "allow and remember" routine continuously. It doesn't remember. And the "always on" choice is greyed out in the preferences. I am so tired of this foolishness. And yes, I've researched this thoroughly. Tried uninstalling firefox and going to an older version and not allowing it to update. Ditto with the flash. So damn annoying. I'd switch to Chrome, but it's a slowpoke irritant. <br> Running SP on a Core i3 over here.</p>

<p>Strange that this topic would be here. But since about 2 weeks ago, everywhere I go I have to put up with the "allow and remember" routine continuously. It doesn't remember. And the "always on" choice is greyed out in the preferences. I am so tired of this foolishness. And yes, I've researched this thoroughly. Tried uninstalling firefox and going to an older version and not allowing it to update. Ditto with the flash. So damn annoying.</p>

<p>no</p>

<p>If you can get by with a 4x5 instead, a Graflex would do just fine.</p>

<p>use any speed you want. 1/60 is just for electronic flash</p>

<p>It's a 357 battery camera. And 1 second is asking too much put of these old cameras.</p>

<p>Man, what a horror story. Dear God, thank you for saving me from being a wedding photographer during my 50 years of photography, Signed, Me.</p>

<p>There's nothing you should do. It's not your affair. If somebody prances out before your camera with a roll of toilet paper strapped to their head, and whistling Dixie, then its for them to live with the resultant photos. </p> <p></p> <p><I>Mod Note: This commentary has been edited. This is a discussion about technical aspects of Post Production and is not a venue for evaluations of Subject's beauty or otherwise.</I></p>

<p>They're all different. I can say with certainty of experience on the Mamiya/Sekor DTL camera for instance, that no foam allows mirror over-travel and is quickly destructive. The foam is always there on these 35's for one reason and/or the other.</p>

<p>An electric shaver cord works on the Graphex posts.</p>

<p>Thank you for the help. I've got a plan to fabricate a cord which will allow me to put a thumb button to trip the camera also from the flash handle, just like the big Graflites do on the Speeds with the solenoids. In the meantime, so that I can get right on the business of shooting pictures, will be to remove the PC socket to lensboard 90 degree electrical fixture and hook up the flash there. It's going to take me a while to budget the frivolous expense of 22 volt batteries. That'll be another $50 right there. <br> My stock had a big day today, but I'm still $20 in the hole on 1000 shares, so spending is halted. In the meantime I have an idea for a great body connector using materials from my RC plane repair stash. Batteries ain't in the plan right now. If I'm going to do this, may as well do it top notch. I've got a darn fine Super now, and a good Stobonar thyristor potato masher to match it. Maybe I ought to actually shoot pictures with it and be happy for a time.<br> Shot my first neg and developed it a few days ago of an old silo in a cornfield, with the corn only 6 inches tall. I'm going to do a 4 seasons series of that scene. Shot it on T-max 100 outdated at 64 ASA and developed tray in straight Microdol home-brew, and it was perfect. What a camera!</p>

<p>It serial number inside left side of front frame. The red button clicks. It is a microswitch. My readings aren't like that. But the camera showed no signs of tampering when I overhauled it.</p>

<p>From what I've been able to ascertain, looking at the camera from the right side, these are the flash contacts. They're the only 2 that cause the numbers to flash on my DVM when I trip the shutter at the lensboard. (I have no 22v batteries)</p><div></div>

<p>Pretty nice set-up, huh?</p><div></div>

<p>This has the Synchro Compur shutter with X & M settings. As far as the brass in the bellows, so far I am reading continuity, but I have a new policy of not folding the camera up unless absolutely necessary, to not add to the 60 years of metal fatigue before I got it 3 weeks ago. I want to try to use the body contacts before I have to remove the parts from the lensboard that give the flash socket its connection there. This is a pretty complete camera--even has the little plastic snap cap on the flash socket.<br /> My 682s came a couple days ago and my Graflite brackets for it came today, and I got them mounted on the flash and now it mounts on the camera just like a Graflite would have. Now all I need to do is fabricate some sort of flashcord to go from the PC output on the Strobonar to the body sockets of the camera.</p>

<p>I'll put my digital Radio Shack cheapo multimeter on it tomorrow wand report back. Problem is these LCD meters are no good for this kind of thing. Anywhere there are capacitors involved, ambiguous results can lead to totally misleading results.</p>

<p>I have a Graflex Super Graphic and I want to hook up my Strobonar 682s up to it using the body contacts. What is the arrangement of the 3 sockets on the right side bottom of the body? Thank you.</p>

<p><br />It would be nice for me to be surer about that left-hand thread issue. For the reason that I question it simply as a matter of logic. That is, a left-hand thread button would tend to be more self-loosening than self-tightening. Maybe not. But I don't recall it as being left-hand thread on other cameras. It's not on a Nikkormat, for instance. Thank you.</p>