joematthewstech

<blockquote> <p>If it's a cheap lens and not minty and collectible, it's not that hard to mill the aperture ring or have it milled to work as AI. I would not bother until or unless you need it, but it's worth considering. As I recall, Jim at Vermont Camera Works can do this for a pretty reasonable price if you balk at doing it yourself.</p> </blockquote> <p>Great to know. I am definitely enjoying the lens as is and probably wouldn't be comfortable doing the work myself, but it is nice to know I can 'upgrade' the lens if needed for a newer viewfinder or body.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Joe -<br> Here's an invaluable resource for figuring out what flavor a Nikon lens is, esp. if you have the serial number too. (as in the photo).<br> <a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html</a><br> Jim</p> </blockquote> <p>Awesome Jim, thank you.</p>

<p>EDIT: I guess the lens above is not AI. It just has different lettering. Ah well...</p>

<blockquote> <p>I would ignore those smartphone apps as any accurate indication of light. They use the little sensor on the phone that's just designed to keep the display brightness in line with ambient lighting conditions. It was never meant to be an accurate light sensor, and those "lightmeter" apps are no more than toys. Either compare the camera to a proper photographic lightmeter or compare it to the "Sunny 16" rule - which is more like the Sunny 11 rule outside of the tropics.</p> </blockquote> <p>For awhile I was using a meter-less Pentax SV until the film advance lever locked up. Sunny 16 served me well then, but I used the iPhone apps because they let me more easily meter with 'aperture priority'. Good tip about Sunny 11, I will definitely try that if I pick up a waist level finder (I <strong>really</strong> like the look of the waist level finder).</p> <blockquote> <p>First, I would get the correct batteries as previously mentioned. Second, the Vivitar may not <em>transmit</em> light at fully 2.8, actual T value might be a little slower, so it is possible that the lens is resulting in a lower shutter speed.<br /> To check the meter, I would get a 50mm/f2 or 1.4Nikon lens from somewhere. The good thing is that with the DP-1, pretty much any Nikon manual focus lens will be compatible, as long as it has rabbit ears to couple. You don't have to have AI lenses. Then, compare to a known good meter in reasonably strong daylight, probably in the shade, so that the available light is somewhere in the middle of the meter range. When I used these cameras, I often put a little offset on the ISO setting to tweak, especially for a little underexposure when using slide film.</p> </blockquote> <p>I bought two 357s for the Nikon and one for the Olympus XA I am picking up tomorrow. I haven't noticed a difference in metering after the change.<br /> <br /> I am currently half way through a roll of film using the DP-1. I'm confident the meter is working fine as is, but if not, I'll take your suggestion and adjust the ISO.<br /> <br /> I just bought a 50mm 1.4 AI off eBay for $50. Looks like it's in great condition, has a filter/protector and both vintage caps. One of the non-AI versions was sniped away from me at the last second, but I'm glad I picked up the AI type in case I try out other bodies or a dp-12 falls into my lap (you never know?).</p><div></div>

<p>Wow, thank you all for the responses!</p> <p>I bought the batteries late at night the day I picked up the camera. I searched for F2 batteries on my phone and none of the batteries mentioned were available in the store. I saw one response about 675s and went with it and never thought about it again. I will definitely pick up some 357 batteries the next time I am out. The pack of 675s were on sale for $5, so not too much money spent, but I guess the question is now...what am I going to with 16 hearing aid batteries?<br> <br> I hope to pick up a nikkor-s prime for cheap. The lens doesn't have to be perfect because I plan to push ilford hp5 to 3200 anyways.<br> <br> Thanks again</p>

<p>I think you are right about the EV limits. If I increase the film speed then I lose the meter on more shutter positions. For example the meter does not work if I set the shutter speed to anything below 1/30 at 6400 iso.</p> <p>So, I guess this is fuss for nothing? Hah.</p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Okay, here's an update on the problem:<br> My meter will stop working based on the <strong>aperture</strong>. The meter on 1 second shutter will shut off when using 5.6 or wider aperture. And, meter on 'B' shuts off when using 8 aperture or wider.</p> <p>I am now thinking the Vivitar 35mm's bunny ear linkage may be the issue? I think I will replace it with a Nikkor prime and see if that fixes this problem.</p> <p>Hopefully this post may be useful for others with this weird issue?<br> <strong> </strong></p>

<p>Hello! My name is Joe and I am new to the forum. I did a search on the topic, but maybe I am typing in the wrong keywords. Please link related content in the info if available!<br /> <br /> I just bought a black Nikon F2 with DP-1 from an original owner. The meter was not working at the time of purchase so I popped in two 675 batteries based on Lex Jenkins recommendation <a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00BF3g">here</a>. The meter now appears to be working! Test, aperture, and shutter speeds all affect the meter as it should.<br /> <br /> The Issue:<br /> The meter does not work for 'B' <strong>and</strong> 1 second shutter speeds. The needle stays to the right and does not move. I can understand why 'B' would be unnecessary, but why doesn't 1 second work?<br /> <br /> Also, related,<br /> I tested the meter on a brick wall in the shade on a clear day. The DP-1 reads exposure is 1/<strong>500</strong> at 2.8, 400 iso. Using two popular light meters for iOS, <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pocket-light-meter/id381698089?mt=8">Pocket Light Meter</a> and <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mylightmeter-free/id578970826?mt=8">myLightMeter</a>, the correct exposure may be 1/<strong>1000</strong>, 2.8, 400.<br /> <br /> My theory?<br /> I think the DP-1 ASA/Shutter Speed connector may be off a stop? So it reads 1 as 'B' -- 1/2 as 1 -- 1000 as 500, etc.<br /> Anyone ever heard of this? Or am I just going crazy? I am okay with stepping up the shutter speed when using the meter, but I feel like (if there is an issue) this problem may be easily fixed?</p> <p>My equipment:<br /> Nikon F2 DP-1<br /> K Focusing Screen<br /> Vivitar 35mm 2.8. -- Anyone have a 1.8 or 2 prime they don't need? :)</p><div></div>