henry_finley1

<p>Thank you Douglas. But I'm here asking because I would very much like to reduce all this "learning" I have to go through. All I want to do is bend up the 2 lower tangs to allow enough separation of the mirror sandwich to slip the mirror out. It only takes common sense to figure that if it can be done, you wouldn't want to open a wide enough gap to cause the 2 upper tangs to bend upwards, lest you'd never get all 4 tight again. Then you'd have to take the whole dadburn camera apart. I guess if one or both tangs just break off, I'll have to come up with a glue idea of some kind, but would really like to avoid that.<br /> As a side note--based on the nearly dozen of these old C's CM, EL, ELM I have laying around, there isn't a single one out there in the world that doesn't have this problem. People buy these things on EBAY by the thousands, and none of them are any good. But they don't know that. If they did, they'd buy Brownie box cameras and get sharpness just as good.</p>

<p>Thank you Evan. I'm not looking for recommendations of service people. I already know all about all of them. With close to a dozen Hass bodies lying around here, it would be quite impossible to send each out for service. I've chosen an experimental body, and am looking for best advice on how to proceed with the things I have in mind.</p>

<p>Before posting this question, I did my due diligence in research to avoid questions asked and answered repeatedly. I'm wanting to undertake the replacement of the 3 little round foam pads underneath the mirror on several 500 series cameras I have. The mirror is held in by little tangs protruding from the metal frame which are simply bent around the edge of the sandwich towards the lower plate. It appears there are 4 tangs, 2 at the foot, and 2 up at the hinge. Not wanting to disassemble the camera, to get to all 4, is it enough to bend just the lower 2 to allow the mirror to slip out from the front to get to these old pads? And what are the chances one or both tangs, now 40-50 years old will simply break upon bending? Thank you.</p>

<p>What a tedious thread.</p>

<p>Come to think of it, the 2 speeds that it does it are the 1/60 and 1/90, with the 1/90 being the top X speed. Like I said, everything from B to 1/30 works fine and everything from 1/125-2000 works.</p>

<p>I'm in NC and thank you for the answers thus far. But I'm quite aware of the service techs I could send it to, but that's not my question I was rather hoping for a mechanical answer, not a referral. Thanks.</p>

<p>My pretty black F2 Photomic just developed a shutter problem and I wanted to hear what some folks might have to say as to why. The 1/60 and 1/90 now act like B. All the other speeds still work just fine, but those 2 act just like B. Strange. Any ideas? Thanks.</p>

<p>Thank you Jim. I still hope somebody addresses my earlier question, but with regard to the secondary question on buying new cells, I'm not yet comfortable with just the electrical and physical characteristics. Those alone might not be an adequate replacement. I happen to know some cells in these cameras had their own built in lenses which gave the meters their center/spot, or weighted readings. Put just any cell in that fits the specs could well be worthless if the metering pattern is not in keeping with the original.</p>

<p>Additionally. I wonder where Sover Wong gets his new CdS cells.<br> http://soverf2repair.webs.com/Cds.htm</p>

<p>Well let's approach this from another angle since initial response is low at this time. I've had the underside of a DP-1 apart, but not the top side. I have the assembly manual diagram here. But I'm fuzzy on the top cover procedure. It looks like I might gain access to the high and low trim pots just by taking off the top sheet metal cover. But that little contact tip on the rear left side bothers me. Is that contact tip soldered to something--a wire or such, whereas I risk messing up something in relation to that contact tip?</p>

<p>I have here n approx 1972 Nikon F2 with DP-1 finder that I'm working on. The meter was off by approx 1.5 stops in the direction of causing underexposure. I have re-calibrated it successfully for sunny f/16 at ASA 200 and it is correct there. However, when I carry the camera into increasingly darker areas to check linearity, I find it is still underexposing at the darker end of the scale. That is to say, and EV 3 is still underexposing by 1 stop. The point where accuracy starts turning sour is at an EV I can't recall, but let's say it's at a brightness where I can still go hand-held. Maybe 1/30 at the f/3.5 at ASA 200. The adjustment so far has required a turning a bit more of the potentiometer by close to 1/5 to 1/4 of a turn in the clockwise direction. If I go more to try to favor the dark end, I will be heading into territory where sunny f/16 will be overexposing.<br /> AHA!, I say to myself--meter cell or cells losing linearity (going bad). I've got a pretty fair bit of meter work under my belt, and this would be typical. But I have NOT disassembled the meter to clean and re-surface the carbon ring or clean the chrome-plated ring. The meter movement is not jumpy. It does have "Nikonitis" to a degree though. Where being off by a small amount from center deflects the meter more severely than the equal amount the opposite way from dead center. Nikon and Nikkormats have this peculiarity more than other makes I've dealt with.<br /> So my question: If I proceed to do the standard brush-and-ring cleanup, can I hope to clear this problem up some, or will this require a stripdown to go after the high and low pots? Thank you</p>

<p>Oh, I understand. Thank yo Cory Ammerman. The front of the focus ring, --NOT the front lens ring.. Now I have to think up a gadget to get the front of the focus ring of.</p>

<p>I already removed the front ring. There's nothing under there to take apart. You have to loosen the set screw n the side of the chrome ring to unscrew the ring. But the set screw is partly blocked by the front edge of the focus knob--that's my problem. You have to do A to do B, but you can't do A until you do B. Nonsequitur. Catch 22.</p>

<p>That's correct--no screws on the focus ring. </p>

<p>I have a 50mm f/1.4 Nippon Kogaku Nikkor-S, ser # 639545 that I am having a hard time disassembling. There's fungus all through is and the focus ring needs cleaning and relube. I've posted a scan of the lens at the point of disassembly where I am halted dead on the project and can go no further. Please noet the setscrew on the front chrome ring. The focus is racked out to the closest focus, but the setscrew is 1/2 way blocked by the edge of the focus ring, and I can find no way to get past this problem to complete disassembly. Thank you.</p>

<p>I am now looking into entry into 8x10. It doesn't look cheap. I wonder how to get an 8x10 to take into the field and mount atop my Tiltall. That's about all I can hope for, because I'm so dead dirt-poor. If I have to do some fix-up on the camera or lens, that's OK. I just don't have time to build one to get out of the money woes. So, how do I do this? Thanks.</p>