johncox

<p>I saw this on a M4 on ebay and I can't recall seeing one before. Anyone know what it is?<br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18191013-lg.jpg" alt="" width="484" height="257" /></p>

<p>Thanks for the help guys.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks Greg, are the 50mm lines view able with the 1.4x magnifier?<br> Also I've looked at that link, but I've also read on other sites that all Leica base lengths (not effective base lengths) are the same, thus the question.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I'm looking at buying a M4-P and I've read some mixed information.<br> Does the M4-P finder show 28mm frame lines or does it only go to 35mm?<br> Does the M4-P have the same base length as a M3? I'm going to put a magnifier on it and i would like to get as close to (or better than) M3 EBL as possible.<br> On the models with a brass top are the gears steel or brass?<br> Lastly would it make sense to go with a 1.25X magnifier for use with a 50mm or could I look at a 1.4x? </p>

<p>When I was looking to upgrade from my 40 f2 rokkor I did a lot of searches on flickr by lens name. My initial though was to get a Biogon 35 f2.8 But I hated what i saw there. I ended up getting a Planar 50 f2 and I love my results. Flickr saved me a lot of money.<br> Now any time I'm looking at film or lenses I take a look at what other people can do with that product. I would strongly recommend doing some aggressive flickr or flickriver searches and comparing contrast and bokeh there.</p>

<p>Ilfotech DD-X is a great developer for Tri-X. In my past experiences I was able to shoot close to box speed rather than the 320 I normally get out of Tri-X.</p> <p>I would especially recommend DD-X for medium format TX negatives, it seems to be a very contrasty developer and thats something you like with big negatives.</p>

<p>I really want to do the develop by inspection process. My scanner also won't take 4x5 negatives but will take a paper that i can invert so that rules out ortho.<br /> I have a 6x12 camera that I use for nice contact prints, and while I'd like large prints, its impossible to find an enlarger that will do anything larger that 6x6 in my area. I'm pretty much stuck contact printing or scanning my large negatives.<br /> So, long story short, I'd like to play with large negatives but my printing capabilities are limited if I want to play with large format.</p>

<p>I did a bit more research and I was complety wrong. The paper I was looking at had an average iso of 6. That gives me 1/60'th at 5.6 on a sunny day. I have a 65mm, but it still looks like I'm using a tipod.<br> Any suggestions for a field camera?</p>

<p>I was looking at the RC paper from Ilford which Indexes at around 80. I'm currently hand holding adox cms 20 II with my leica at F2 so going to 5.6-8 iso 80 should work (my thoughts)</p>

<p>I need a camera that can take photo paper, and down the road glass plates. I want to be able to hand hold this ( at least with the paper) with a 90 SA.<br> I have some experience using a Dayi 6x12 as a Rangefinder and I'd be fine with a Dayi 4x5. But before I buy I'd like to know if there is anything else I should look at. I'd also like to know if there is any reason to go for one back type over another (IE which brand is less expensive and more prevalent)<br> I know this is an oddball question so thanks for your time.</p>

<p>My Voigtlander Bessa R2 is looking a bit dusty. Any suggestions on the best way to remove outer dust from the glass and plastic.</p>

<p>I shoot Tri X and hp5 @400, and TMAX 400 pushed to 800. I'll second B@H and freestylephoto.biz is really good too.<br /> Arista Premium (freestyle) used to be a rebagged versions of Tri X but I believe its sold out, they have Foma films now (Arista Edu Ultra). The 200 is really good, the others need to be pulled down to 200, I haven't tried the 100.</p>

<p>I'm no expert, but, I know that on some early RF's trimming the leader is necessary. That may be worth looking into.</p>

<p>Thanks guys.</p>

<p>I`d like to play around with pulling slow films, down to the ISO 6-15 area. The goal being to get low grain, and extra sharp images. Does anyone have any recommendations? I would like to try Adox CMS II, but, other than that I really don't know what else to try. I'll be shooting 35mm and 120 (6x12). -Developers would be great to hear about too!<br> Thanks in advance,<br> John Cox</p>

<p>It could also be that the camera was specifically calibrated to a previous screen. It is possible to calibrate a mirror to a screen and if that was done in the past all subsequent screens will likely be off.</p>

<p>Looking at those photos most are pre scanner era, so I think that the developing step might refer to the printing process. I would recommend looking at the book "the negative" by Ansel Adams. This has a lot of info regaurding tehniques your asking and I think you'll find it very useful.<br> I would also second the 2-3 stop filter factor.</p>

<p>After being a fine art guy that only shoots film I'm looking at buying into canon. I like the 24-70 2.8 usm II But would like IS, are the f4 IS and the 24-120 f4 IS worth looking at? Or would I notice a loss of image quality? The body I'm looking at is the 5ds r.</p>

<p>This winter it looks like I'm going to end up doing some landscape photography. My immediate thought is that I would use my DaYi 6x12 and 90mm Schneider SA. I could use advice however on some different films/developers to use. There are no decent labs nearby for color or e-6 but I could send film to Dwayne's. I do develop my own film and feel confident I could get good results with fuji 100 and TRI X in Rodinal or HC-110</p> <p>For B+W, are there any other suggestions besides Fuji 100 and Tri x in Rodinal/HC-110?</p> <p>Is E-6 or color worth looking at?</p> <p>I really like the grain, latitude and contrast on XP2, what are peoples thoughts on it?<br /> Thanks in advance,<br /> John</p>

<p>An adapter like this one should work. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/362313-REG/Hasselblad_3043500_CF_Lens_Adapter_for.html<br> You can probably find one for less somewhere else on the web, your hassy dealer may the best place to look too.</p>

<p>Also look at the offering from Voigtlander. I've never been disappointed with them. </p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=8730483">denny rane</a><a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub1.gif" alt="" /></a>, Aug 01, 2015; 12:08 a.m.</p> <p>Hey John -<br />That's funny.....I realize this might be one of those questions that has been asked a Zillion times, so I am sorry. Let me rephrase it.<br />1. Any of you guys using the "Daylight Tanks", and if so which ones.?<br />2. Do you guys prefer the Patterson/Plastic Tanks over the "traditional" Metal/SS Tanks.?<br />Thank You</p> </blockquote> <p>I wasn't offended, there's just a lot of varying opinions. <br> There are also several different plastic tanks. I like the Arista Premium from Freesyle.</p>

<p>There are several options I have used, although not what you have described. There are metal tanks that you work the film onto in either a dark room or a light tight bag or a plastic tank that works the same way. I would recommend the AP plastic tanks from freestyle. Although this is a can of worms -asking about this on an internet forum.</p>

<p>My lens has the sn of 7001167. I don't recognize the factory mark, (looks like a C inside a shield). Thanks guys.</p>

<p>I know a lot of older lenses have soft coatings, hence my worry. Before I give it a go, micro fiber is safe?</p>