johncox

<p>The film would have likely been 120 roll film used in a 6x12 camera. I just treated my self to a brand new Da Yi 612 for Christmas and I have similar negatives. On the edges of the film there should be some marking that says what brand (and model so to speak) it is. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Just curious, why not the C-41 films?</p> </blockquote> <p>Because I need to able to develop it at home.</p>

<p>Whats the highest resolustion 400 iso Black and white film? Needs to be a true Black and White and not a c-41 film like xp-2. Am I right to assume its TMAX 400?</p>

<p>As an update I ended up getting a Da Yi 612S camera with a 65mm 5.6 Schneider SA MC lens. I can basically zone focus everything and use it as a point and shoot that has a very large sized image output. <br /> I'm glad stumbled across this though because it got me looking at this idea and I'm happy with my Da Yi.</p>

<p>I really liked my M2-p but needed a built in meter, I after a conversation with Stephen Gandy I decided it would make more sense to get a Bessa R2 than an M5. So what I enjoy most is the R2 and a 40mm CL lens, using the 35mm frame lines.</p>

<p>From what I've read I really like this film. But I need it about a stop faster and I've always liked a high contrast look. Before I buy a bunch I'd like to know if anyone thinks its worth pushing a stop and in what developer.</p>

<p>The trimming is probably the same hassle as cutting down 8x10 paper. Thanks for the heads up. I'll look for direct positive paper from Ilford if I do this. Is that the stuff that came with the Harman pinhole camera?</p>

<p>I'm considering getting a 4x5 camera (a DaYi or FotoMan) I would use 4x5 film but the possibility of purchase hinges on the ability to use darkroom paper as well as film (due to cost and ease of developing). <br> I can't find a good source for 4"x5" paper on line and I have a feeling I would have to break it down my self. <br> Are there any other options?<br> Is this a good idea?</p> <p>I would be scanning and contact printing at first.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a good manual focus 35 or 28 for my Nex 5r. I'd like to stay below 150 but a little over is fine. I know the nikkor ai lenses are basically the same as the af-d versions. Are there any other good options?<br /> I'm fine buying from Keh or eBay (or anywhere really).<br /> Thanks in advance,<br /> John</p>

<p>http://www.dpreview.com/articles/5147354610/a-travel-sized-large-format-4x5-camera<br> https://wanderlustcameras.com/<br> Its a cheap ($145) no feature 4x5. <br> It looks interesting and like something I could use to get my feet wet.</p>

<p>Are you using a squeegee by chance?</p>

<p>The reason you would <em><strong>need</strong> </em>the film speed on a film camera is so that the light meter knows how to function. That's the only reason a film camera <strong><em>needs to know</em></strong> the ISO. Old cameras like the leica IIIc don't have built in meters. So you don't need to set the speed on it. It's my recommendation to have a light meter of some kind. You will need to set the ISO on that.<br /> Older cameras did tend to have the ability to set a speed on them. This is just to remember what the film that's in them and is optional. <br /> As far as what ASA is as opposed to ISO. Back in the day there were different standards for measuring film speed ASA Din and a few others existed for a while, now the world seems to have settled on ISO. Some measured contrast and some measured reaction to light. ASA is one of the earlier systems.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Maybe this statement is where you're getting confused. To repeat, sensor size does NOTHING to the DoF in and of itself. The only thing sensor size does is drive user behaviour to choose a focal length and/or distance from the subject to make the image. Three things are basically at play.</p> <ol> <li>You used the same lens but had to move further back on the smaller sensor to get the same FoV, and therefore more DoF</li> <li>You used a shorter focal length to get the same FoV from the same distance - the shorter focal length at the same distance is giving you a great DoF</li> <li>You "printed" (viewed) the image at the same size (magnification) from both sensors. The smaller one required a greater enlargement which increased the observed size of the CoC moving more of the image into the perceived out of focus section.</li> </ol></blockquote> <p>No that's my Point, a 645 35mm has immense depth of field. About the same as a fish eye. Shouldn't that stay the same on a m43 or nex 7?</p>

<p>From what I understand -and the reason I asked- I had thought that a large circle of confusion equaled very little depth of field in lens design. So my theory was that a lens for larger circle of confusion ( a full frame camera ) would show more in focus on a wide angle lens.<br /> And since smaller sensors magnify the percieved focal length, what would be a wide angle lens on a full frame with a lot of DoF would be a standard on a M43, with the same DoF. Hence I want to use a 645/6x6 lens for street photography.</p>

<p>Am I correct in assuming that lens formulation ( lens format) dictates the hyperfocal focusing formula, opposed to the focal length. In other words; a lens for a full frame camera will show more in focus than the same focal length made for a APS-C camera?<br> If this is the case does anyone have any suggestions as to a good 35mm 645 lens I can adapt to Sony (Nex) Alpha?</p>

<p>Look at the voigtlander bessa R2M or R3M. I have 2 and love them. You can get a used leica/minolta 40mm Sumicron to go with it and the whole set up will cost you less than a Leica body. The Voigtlander lenses are very good too and I would fully recommend them as well (a 35 2.5 skopar would set you back about 400).</p> <p>One thing about the Voigtlander cameras (and any camera), the "M" version has an entirely mechanical shutter. This means that if the electronics fail the camera still works. This isn't the case for a camera with an electronic shutter such as the "A" model. Where if the electronics fail, the camera is useless.</p> <p>It doesn't make sense to do an expensive replacement of the entire inner electronics on an inexpensive camera so if the electronics fail that's the end of your "A" camera.</p>

<p>I use the same film for everything. That could work too.</p>

<p>Depending on the situation you may want to look at freestylephoto.biz They have Tri X 400 re branded as <a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/192244-Arista-Premium-400-ISO-35mm-x-24-exp.">arista premium</a> (2.69 per 24 exp) they don't have a portra equivalent to my knowledge but it may be worth a look. The shipping has been reasonable to Canada, I don't know how it would be to Oz.</p>

I'm in the market for a windows tablet and want to use a Wacom stylus in my desktop workflow. This has led me to consider a windows tablet that has a decent stylus, the idea is that with a program like team view or remote desktop I can use the tablet as a wacom type input device. Does any one have any experience with this concept? The end goal is just to dodge and burn with a stylus. My main worries are latency related, I would be using a local connection. Any thoughts welcome, Thanks John

<p>It depends on the shutter type and with two lenses you'll need two boards. Here is a link to a chart that should help.<br /> http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lensboard_hole_sizes.html</p>

<p>Flashes and strobes have a GN (guide number) that determines how much will be exposed by the light of the unit. For wedding and portrait photographers using non TTL lighting prime lenses become more attractive as your field of view remains more constant and you don't need to adjust your lighting (worry about your GN) as much. The advantages of zooms are always there so having both is still useful. </p>

To my knowledge the 500c didn't take interchangeable focus screens. That was the major advantage of the 500cm. Are you certain of your model?

<p>Its a great camera, congratulations. I second getting some good film and getting it scanned. (I would be inclined to use Provia 400x). One thing to know up front is that the normal scan size from labs is quite small (about 6 Mp). If you shoot a lot, a flatbed or dedicated scanner would give you much better results.</p>

<p>Is this an early and"rare" R2? Say, as rare as the 250 Jahre edition R3? </p>

<p>I have an olive Voigtlander Bessa R2 with a serial of 0000302. Does this matter at all?</p>